Changes of Shape retention and Total Appearance Value(TAV) After Fusing

접착포의 형태 보형성(shape retention)과 TAV(Total Appearance Value)의 변화

  • 지주원 (전주기전여자대학 의상디자인과) ;
  • 유효선 (서울대학교 의류학과)
  • Published : 2000.09.01

Abstract

The purpose of this study is 1) to analyse the bending property of the fused fabric and each component of the fused fabrics. 2) to examine the effect of fusing temperature on the bending property of the fused interlining and fused fabrics. 3) to examine the changes of B/W, 2HB/W and TAV of the fused fabrics according to the types of face fabric, interlining, fusing temperature. Five types of wool fabric, four types of shingosen fabric and four types of interlining were used for this study. The fusing condition in this study were the three types of fusing temperature of 10$0^{\circ}C$, 12$0^{\circ}C$, 14$0^{\circ}C$, the pressure of 4 kgㆍf/$cm^2$, and pressing time of 12 seconds. The results obtained from this study were as follows. 1) The bending rigidities and hysteresis of fabrics after fusing were increased. The bending behavior of fused fabrics were governed by the bending behavior of face fabric and interlinings and $\alpha$$_{B}$ values. 2) The KES standardized basic values of B/W and 2HB/W were increased after fusing. The B/Ws of fused fabrics were mainly determined by the $\alpha$$_{B}$ values of interlinings. The 2HB/Ws of fused fabrics seemed to be controlled by the fusing temperature. 3) The changes of TAVs of wool fused fabrics differed from those of shingosen fused fabrics. As the $\alpha$$_{B}$ values of fabric were larger and fusing temperature were increased, the TAVs of wool fused fabrics were smaller though those of shingosen fused fabrics were larger. 4) The TAVs of fused fabrics were highly correlated with the B/Ws of fused fabrics. In the case of wool fused fabrics, the TAVs of fused fabrics were negativly correlated with the 2HB/Ws of wool fabrics and used interlinings.nings.

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