• Title/Summary/Keyword: fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation

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Surf Zone Wave Transformations Simulated by a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equation (완전비선형 Boussinesq방정식을 이용한 쇄파대의 파랑변형 모의)

  • 윤종태;김종무
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.296-308
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    • 2001
  • A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

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Shoaling and Breaking Characteristics of Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model (완전비선형 Boussinesq 모형의 천수 및 쇄파 특성)

  • YOON JONG-TAE;PARK SEUNG-MIN
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.19 no.2 s.63
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    • pp.29-33
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    • 2005
  • The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

Boussinesq Modeling of a Rip Current at Haeundae Beach (Boussinesq 방정식 모형을 이용한 해운대 이안류 수치모의)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Park, Won-Kyung;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.276-284
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    • 2011
  • The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

Estimate of Wave Overtopping Rate on Armoured Slope Structures Using FUNWAVE-TVD Model (FUNWAVE-TVD 모델을 이용한 경사구조물의 월파량 산정)

  • Moon Su Kwak
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.36 no.1
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    • pp.11-19
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    • 2024
  • In this study, the program was modified by adding the empirical formula of EurOtop (2018) to enable calculation of wave overtopping on armoured slope structures in the FUNWAVE-TVD model using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation. The validity of the modified numerical model was verified by comparing it with CLASH data and experiment data for the rubble mound structure. This model accurately reproduced the change in wave overtopping rate according to the difference in the roughness factor of the armoured block, and well reproduced the rate of decrease in wave overtopping rate due to the increase in relative freeboard. The overtopping rate of the armoured slope structures showed significant differences depending on the positioning condition of the armoured blocks. When Tetrapods were placed with regular positioning, the overtopping rate increased significantly compared to when they were placed with random positioning, and it was consistent with when they were placed with Rocks. Meanwhile, when rocks were placed in one row, the wave overtopping rate was greater than when rocks were placed in two rows, which is believed to be due to the influence of the roughness and permeability of the structure's surface.

Estimate of Wave Overtopping Rate on Vertical Wall Using FUNWAVE-TVD Model (FUNWAVE-TVD 모델을 이용한 직립구조물의 월파량 산정)

  • Kwak, Moon Su;Kobayashi, Nobuhisa
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.257-264
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    • 2021
  • This study established a numerical model capable of calculating the wave overtopping rate of coastal structures by nonlinear irregular waves using the FUNWAVE-TVD model, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. Here, a numerical model was established by coding the mean value approach equations of EurOtop (2018) and empirical formula by Goda (2009), and adding them as subroutines of the FUNWAVE-TVD model. The verification of the model was performed by numerically calculating the wave overtopping rate of nonlinear irregular waves on vertical wall structures and comparing them with the experimental results presented in EurOtop (2018). As a result of the verification, the numerical calculation result according to the EurOtop equation of this model was very well matched with the experimental result in all relative freeboard (Rc/Hmo) range under non-impulsive wave conditions, and the numerical calculation result of empirical formula was evaluated slightly smaller than the experimental result in Rc/Hmo < 0.8 and slightly larger than the experimental result in Rc/Hmo > 0.8. The results of this model were well represented in both the exponential curve and the power curve under impulsive wave conditions. Therefore, it was confirmed that this numerical model can simulate the wave overtopping rate caused by nonlinear irregular waves in an vertical wall structure.