• 복식
• /
• 제63권4호
• /
• pp.84-100
• /
• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권7호
• /
• pp.121-134
• /
• 2004

Wiener Werkstaette(workshop) established in 1903 was an artistic handicraft working group, the central figure of which was an architecture, J. Hoffman. Especially its textile design part established in 1910 produced good results. The textile design part of Wiener Werkstaette took total artwork (Gesamtkunstwerke), which Pursued artistic work in all visual parts of life, as a central concept of their work and tried to insert the artistic creativity into the textile design. Regarding the influence relationship between Wiener Werkstaette textile design and formative art, it was influenced by the geometric tendency of C.R. Mackintosh and the style and motive of Japanese art. From 1910's, bright, vivid and cheerful designs were mass-produced by uniquely using various motives, techniques and colors. The formative significance of Wiener Werkstaette textile design are as follows. Firstly, the pattern includes both rational and sensual elements. Secondly, the aesthetic patterns of Wiener Werkstaette include formative elements anticipating the modernism. The leading artistic sense like this played role of catalyzer through which the golden age of artistic decoration, art deco, came. The significance of the textile was made aware through clothes design . The clothes design made with Wiener Werkstaette textile conveyed message as art to everyone and provided the elite of society supporting them with Proud that they are fashion leader ahead of times and have artistic sense. Wiener Werkstaette textile design like this played big role as an instrument for realizing the total artwork by attaining the new artistic formative fruits.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권6호
• /
• pp.824-836
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of women's costumes among the Regency era's elite in the television drama Bridgerton (2020). Its methodology investigates the socio-cultural background and literature on clothing in the Regency era. It also analyzes the formative elements of Daphne's costumes (of the Bridgerton family) and Penelope's costumes (of the Featherington family) representing the upper class. The study reveals that women's costumes had a tubular silhouette consisting of a low neckline, high waistline, and short puffed sleeves. The series expressed well the Regency-era costumes, which were influenced by Neoclassicism and characterized by silk materials, shawls, gloves, belts, a reticule, and hairstyles. Among the formative elements, the Bridgerton and Featherington families' costumes showed distinct differences in color, materials, patterns, accessories, and hairstyles. Daphne's costumes were intelligent and elegant in pastel-toned blues and had small patterns. She carried small accessories and had a natural curled hairstyle. In contrast, Penelope wore decorative and splendid styles in intense colors and large patterns. Her accessories were large and colorful, and she had a strong curled hairstyle. These costumes express the Bridgerton family as aristocratic and the Petringer family as flashy, thereby distinguishing the two families. These research results will be presented as basic data for producing drama costumes in the 19th century to help complete the drama.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권3호
• /
• pp.120-136
• /
• 2012

The purposes of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design by focusing on the period from 2000 to 2010 and to find out the development direction of the next makeup design. This study considered formative theory to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design of $Marian$ $L.$ $Davis$ and $Marilyn$ $R.$ $Delong's$ theory, and analyzed the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design in an aspect of line and form, color and material, The results are as follows: First, the shapes of the artistic eye-makeup such as tear drops, and rectangular paisleys were similar with the form of clothes such as the hourglass, cylinders and mix-types. Second, monotonic color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination that induced complex contrast coordination were apparent as well. Third, the objects of the artistic eye-makeup such as glitter papers, spangles and beads had similar features as the material of clothes such as silk and spangle, and contrast was partially used like colors. The results suggest that artistic eye-makeup and clothes have an organic relationship, and artistic eye-makeup is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.41-49
• /
• 2009

Contemporary design environment is formed with image-centered trend based on pluralism. In this point of view, enterprises' building lobbies are public places containing the equivocal meaning, actively utilizing light as a design element to express the image of enterprises' identifications. Light is an immaterial entity having unlimited possibilities and potentials on space. It also acts as media to activate spaces and create new images in connection with formative elements of space. This study is to figure out how lightings are expressed and affected the formative characteristics of office lobby spaces and activate the specific characteristics of spaces. As a result, we drew conclusions as follows. First, as state-of-the-art technology and media are introduced, light is expressed on spaces as floating, direction, rhythm, silhouette, metaphor and allusion, sense of depth and volume. Second, expressive aspects of light in lobby space are embodiment of light, substantiation of immateriality, standing of materiality from the perspective of spatial aesthetics, and distortion/transformation of shape, pluralism phenomena of space from the perspective of spatial structure. In this way, light on building lobbies which are greatly required design differentiation strategy, specializes space and also integrates all the designs as not only a functional element but also a mental, psychological, formative element. Consequently, light on lobby spaces induces communication between spaces and users, makes formative value of existence in itself, and presents the characteristics of differentiated enterprises' identities.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권10호
• /
• pp.151-171
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.34-56
• /
• 2005

This study analyzed the formative relationship between clothes and hat, and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, Fashion photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked. The method to analyze was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권2호
• /
• pp.14-28
• /
• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• 한국가구학회지
• /
• 제26권4호
• /
• pp.421-427
• /
• 2015

21century design is working in order to increase the accessibility, eliminating alienation hierarchy for the use of the product. Efforts to these design approach are not intended for a small number of users. It offers the advantage of a variety of design for users of a wider range. So, it was allowed to extend the value in good design for all human beings. Traditional thought is expressed in a variety of shapes by applying meaning to another re-interpretation for the form to contemporary furniture and structure and decoration. Gyeongsang have a religious solemn feeling in the typical furniture of hall space that reflects the inner distinctive tradition thought of scholar of the Chosun Dynasty. For these reasons, in the present study, based on the modeling elements of Gyeongsang, which is based on the traditional idea of our country, there is the purpose to propose a design of agreed with table in modern lifestyle. Design concept proposed in this paper, to be applied to the design of the table is placed in the living space by re-interpreting the modeling properties which can be felt in the thin form and structure and patterns as modern image.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권2호
• /
• pp.11-23
• /
• 2004

Bomun(Treasure Pattern), by its formative beauty and its symbol of good-luck, is mixed well with other patterns and produces another luxurious and gorgeous pattern with them. This study is to sort out Bomun patterned materials in the relics of Chosun dynasty, to classify the types of patterns according to its elements and to its arrangement, and to analyze their aesthetic characteristics in terms of fabrics, methods of putting patterns on fabrics, their usage, and symbols and aesthetics. The types of Bomun, in terms of their composition elements, are classified as Individual type, Compound Type Ⅰ, which is made with another Bomun, and Compound Type Ⅱ, which is compounded with plant patterns or with animal patterns. In terms of its arrangement, it is classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type, and the most popular type is the pattern of the dense type. Bomun was depicted in the fabric through a technique called Jimunbeop. It was used on both men's and women's clothing. It was mostly used in Po of men's clothing and in Jeogori(jacket) of women's clothing. Bomun connotes the meaning of good-luck, beating off evil spirits, Yin and Yang ideology, noble tastes, etc.