• 복식
• /
• 제60권9호
• /
• pp.106-119
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to examine American students' perceptions of contemporary fashion design that incorporates Korean traditional costume. The findings, which are based on a survey of American students' aesthetic response to the fashion designs, are as follows. First, the impressions of American students about the fashion designs were affected by two major factors, Tradition and Trend. The Tradition factor was related to the impressions traditional, formal, elegant, classic, romantic, gorgeous, and natural, but was correlated negatively to the impressions dynamic, modern, and casual. The Trend factor was related to the impressions chic, trendy, and clear but not dandy. Designs with elongated shape had a positive score for the Tradition factor and designs with curvy line had a positive score for the Trend factor. Second, American students gave visual priority to the aspects of shape such as garment type and silhouette when they evaluated the designs. Color was less important than the aspect of shape in their fashion image perception. Therefore, they categorized the designs by similarity of garment types, and then sub-categorized them by color. The meaning of Korean traditional motifs or details was not significant to American students. Third, American students showed the tendency that the more they evaluated the designs to be gorgeous or trendy, the more they liked the designs. Furthermore, they liked the designs which have a positive score for the Trend factor.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권7호
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2007

H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ methodology created viewpoint of art history which is an essential factor of art, and proposed formal analysis as an academic methodology specific to art history. H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ expressed the see-form a as the five pair concepts which are summarized by 'linear-painterly' 'the plane-the deep'. 'closed form-open form', 'multiplicity-unity', 'absolute clarity-relative clarity'. His methodology is not only in the field of art and architecture but also clothing because during the same period have a relative tendency of thought, culture, politics and economics each other. As the result of this study were as follows. Renaissance of 16 century, the style of dress was enormous and dignified by body support outfit, hard puffs, slashes, padding and expansive jewels. It make appearance of man and woman absolute clarity because Classicism styles of aesthetic consciousness is geometrically perfect form and symmetry and restrained harmony, magnificent. Baroque of 17 century, the style of dress was vigorous mobility and subtle balance by abundant and free silhouette, soft collar, magnificent ribbon loop and tassel without body support outfit. It make appearance of man and woman comfortable and natural because Baroque styles of aesthetic consciousness is extraordinary degree of originality and creativity that was evident in the devising of new styled.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제19권6호
• /
• pp.804-812
• /
• 2017

This study builds a database that can be reflected in the production of dress form for fitting by typifying the upper body shape of a senior male. This study analyzed the 3D shape data of 405 persons of the 5th Size Korea. The age range is from 50s 210 persons and 60s 205 persons. Analysis items to identify upper body shape of senior males consisted of 51 items. 3D shape data were also measured using a Geomagic Design ${\times}$ program for the analysis of the upper body of the senior male required for the dress form of this study. The reference point was based on the Size Korea 2010 3D measurement standard and created points (Back-protrusion) on shape data. As a result of the senior men type, the senior men's body type was classified into four types:1. Overall, the upper body is a large body type and the most undistorted overall body type 2. Width / Thickness Flatness is the largest and vertical length factor is the smallest abdominal obesity type 3. Severe flexion of the back part type 4. The upper body is small and the scapular bending is severe. The elderly body type showed a high distribution ratio in the type with severe flexion. The development of a dress form that reflects the cause of the finery issue can improve the fit of ready-to-wear.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권5호
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권8호
• /
• pp.184-199
• /
• 2008

This thesis aims to examine the formation, and the religious meaning and symbolism of Beob-Lak, which is attached to the preacher's clothing as a full dress of Won-Buddhism, which, as a new religion, was originated in Korea's historical foundation in 1916. In addition, it tries to provide the basic data for the study on Korean religious costume by examining Beob-Lak in the context of social atmosphere of Korea, which has accepted various religions. As a result, I found that Beob-Lak was originated from the different colored lines of the early Japanese Buddhist religious costume and it employed rochza as an independent component, but that the present protocol of Beob-Lak was completed by the first Jongbeobsa Jeongsan Jongsa in the late 1950s and all the religious workers have put it on with the religious costume in great worships since the early 1980s. Beob-Lak of Won-Buddhism, which employs Ilwonsang Beobsinbul as the symbol of its religious doctrine, symbolizes the succession of Beob and represents the will to repay the teacher's favors to hand down the great truth. At the center, Ilwonsan(one round shape) is the symbol of the innate place for everything in the universe, and its yellow color symbolizes the highest nobleness. I expect to see following researches which deal with the costume of Won-Buddhism from various views on the basis of this study on the formation and development of Beob-Lak, which is the symbol of formal full dress of Won-Buddhism as Korea-style new religion created over 90 years ago.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권7호
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 2004

This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권5호
• /
• pp.51-70
• /
• 2010

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제10권2호
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권6호
• /
• pp.913-927
• /
• 2017

This study is based on the results of the $7^{th}$ Korea Human Size Survey (Size Korea). The standard body shapes of Korean women between 25 and 34 years old were analyzed and used to develop a prototype princess line for wedding dresses. or this purpose I conducted a literature review and a survey of the actual situation of domestic ligaments. In order to select suitable ligaments for the standard body type of 25~34 year-old Korean women, I collected the most representative ligaments from around the world: Stock man from France, Superior from the USA, KIIYA from Japan, and Pig and Nonno from Korea. They were then compared and analyzed. In the form of a formal wedding dress, a prototype princess line was developed by a draping technique in order to finely implement the human body fitting. To develop the prototype of the princess line, I made test garments with muslin. 25 to 34 years old Korean female standard body type Three human subjects close to the average measurement value were selected as subjects. An exterior appearance evaluation questionnaire was created with 28 questions focusing on the main parts of the prototype princess line. The clothes were evaluated three times. In this study, aesthetic and functional elements were considered for the development of princess line prototypes for wedding dresses. In addition, the amount of spare area was given differently. This study is significant in the achievement of a dress line closest that closely matches the human body line of the standard Korean female body type.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제27권11호
• /
• pp.1260-1269
• /
• 2003

This paper endeavors to examine the most suitable formal dress design for mid-aged men who lives in Kwangju, the Republic of Korea. Visual effect in associate design is considered with adjustment, figured and the body type. There are partly similarity differences in associate design visual effect by one's shape and clothes design. Firstly, in thin type, striped figured suit is the most attractive. Single adjustment suit with striped figured tend to be attractive, young and modernistic. Single adjustment without figured is felt the mellowest. Secondly, in standard type, the suit without figured is perceived the most attractive and masculine. The suit with striped figured is looked more young. Single adjustment suit without figured is the most attractive and mellow also single adjustment with figured is felt the youngest. Double adjustment without figured is felt mellow and with striped figured is felt the most modernistic and familiar. Also double adjustment suit with check figured is felt more modernistic. Thirdly, in pyknic type, the solid figured and striped figured of the suits are felt more masculine and single without figured is thought attractive. Single adjustment with check figured is common image. Also, double adjustment with stripe figured is perceived attractive. In conclusion, the adjustment, number of button and figure are very important facts for the clothes for giving whole visual effect of men's suit.