• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.233-242
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• 1992

This study primarily concentrates on the Fashion Style of the New Generation which has come into being in 1980 with reference to the contents of the newspaper and magazine in 1950's. . The New Generation has undergone the social and cultural change under the effect of mass communication, mass consumption brought by the economic development, sports boom promoted during the period of Asian Games and Seoul Olympic Games and the adoption of the policy for the autonomous school uniform. In the process of the social and cultural change, they have the common peculiarity such as sensitivity, anthoritarianism and polarity and they have taken an important part in the development of the 'Young Fashion' The characteristics of their fashion styles are divided into three periods as follows; 1. The rising period (1980-1982): The most important pecuriality of the first step can be sum up to the following point. The free fashion style replaced the formal one such as T-shirt or casual wear comes into as a everyday dress. Moreover, many people become interested in the New Fashion which is gradually diversified and high-qualified. As a natural consequence, the lively interest of the people has brought into the appearance and competition of the New Brand in fashion industry 2. The growing period (1983-1986): Mannish Look, so-called 'New Fashion' gained the summit of the fashion and change over conservatively. However, 'Mannish Look' have great effect on the Fashion Style until now on. Specially in Korea, 'Punk Style'and 'Androgynous Look' can be an example among many. 3. The diversifying period (1987-1989): The Fashion Style has developed variously even though the Reactionism takes the lead as the main current of the Korean Fashion. Moreover, it is noticeable that man comes into the stage as a new fashion group and the fashion market begins to dear in various lines of goods with moderate and low prices. These various aspects can be regarded as diversification in the Fashion Style as the needs in the times and society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.296-308
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend the contemporary sports star fashion and to contemplate aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, thereby to establish the styles of sports star fashion. For such purposes, this study first examines aesthetic characteristics of sports fashion and star fashion based on previous studies, in order to analyze aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, and conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials of fashion styles of well-known male sports stars such as the English soccer player David Beckham and American golf player Tiger Woods. The result of this study is as follows: the aesthetic characteristics of the contemporary sports star fashion are virility, functionality, sensuality and deconstruction. (1) Virility emphasizes manly features by displaying trained and disciplined body. (2) Functionality is expressed through structural simplicity and temperance of decoration. High-tech textiles and fibers are favored in order to fit in comfortable bodily movement for the heavy exercises. (3) Sensuality, as an expression of indulgence of sexual pleasure, is expressed through bodily exposure. Lastly, (4) deconstruction, which means destroying existed boundaries of cultural categories, is shown as co-existence of design elements from different times and places, stereotypes and sensibilities. Virility and functionality are prominent characteristics expressed in sports uniforms and training costumes. Sensuality and deconstruction are shown in daily fashion and formal dress outside the sports field.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.423-429
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• 2013

This study helps out-size consumers purchase tops and improve the fitness of unde-weight women in their 20s-30s and by the establishment of a size system. The criteria for subjects in this study were those under 18.5($kg/m^2$) of the BMI; subsequently, a total of 233 females were enrolled. The results were: First, the nominal size for female adult formal dress suggested by the KS standard is suggested in 20 sections. The sections for underweight women are 7, (34 women who accounted for 14.59% out of 233 in total). The cover efficiency was 2.08% (which was very low). Second, tests showed that the average difference between the reference part body size of 7 sections for underweight women in the normal size section of bust cir.- hip cir.- height, and KS standard, waist cir. among reference sizes was rather small in the case of a nominal size for long height. Therefore, there is a significant difference with size in the KS standard and a sizing system proven improper for underweight woman. Third, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different due to the size system establishment according to measurements of underweight subjects. The research findings suggest that it is necessary to understand underweight types according to bust girth and hip girth sizes that represent basic sizes as well as to design patterns that consider the underweight body shape characteristics when women's tops are designed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.1-17
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• 2005

The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.30-46
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• 2008

This study aims to develop an academic costume design representing the university identity of Seoul Women's University. As a formal dress and uniform symbolizing the dignity of study, academic costume arouses self-esteem of the owner and represents the symbolic order. UI(University Identity) is a system that embodies the identity of the university and create a certain image, and thus actively delivers the image pursued by the university. The study method to develop a new academic costume design of Seoul Women's University includes the theoretical background of UI and academic costume, investigation on the current rendition of academic costume, home and abroad, and a survey to collect the basic data for academic costume design development. Most of the respondents presented negative opinions on the existing academic costume and graduation cap, which do not show any clear distinction from those of other universities. They made a pressing demand for the development of an academic costume that well represents the image of the university by reflecting the university feature and symbol. As a result of the survey, it turned out that they preferred an academic costume with short length balloon sleeves to the exiting one, and that as for neck line and front hook, those of the existing one were preferred. This study developed and presented 9 different models of graduation gowns and 5 different caps based on the theoretical investigation and survey concerning academic costume. It is expected that the academic costume representing the university identity not only arouses self-esteem of the owner, but also enhances the university's position.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.8
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• pp.89-119
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• 2009

Kim, Jun-Geun(Gisan) was a late 19th century Chosen dynasty painter who created numerous genre paintings for West European clients in the newly opened treaty ports of Wonsan, Busan and Inchon. The treaty ports in the late 19th century Chosen represented of the crossroads the economy, values, and the institutions of the West European powers. In particular, the agriculture-based economy, Confucianism, and land-owner noble class started being eroded by a commerce-based economy, the values of Christianity, West European institution, and a new class of people who amassed wealth from commerce. As Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings were created for sale to West European clients, they exhibit characteristics that are distinct from the traditional genre paintings in terms of presentation style and the selection of the subject matters. The export genre painting originated in the 18th century around Guangdong, China. Broadly, there are two styles of genre paintings: the Guangzhou style and Ningbo style. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings resemble the Ningbo style. The Ningbo style tends to highlight the main subjects, form an album of small paintings, and provide a simple treatment of the scenes without the background. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings cover most aspects of life of common people of his time, ranging well beyond the subjects matters of the traditional genre paintings. His subject matters include the scenes of funeral, folk games, Buddhist and ancestor worship, prison and punishment, shaman custom, debauchees, government officials' formal trips, beggars and handicapped, etc. Many of the subjects are the neglected and the oppressed of the society. And he presents in detail the dress and its ornament that the subjects wear, and all the utensils and things around them. Besides, his subjects' faces are generally expressionless, and their postures are stiff; as such, the feeling of liveliness or movement is lacking. It may be the results of Kim, Jun-Geun's taking the other perspective, namely of his West European clients, rather than his own. The adoption of the other perspective may in turn be a product of the Social Darwinism and the new sense of values that accompanied the infusion of Christianity and West European institutions. Kim, Jun-Geun's portrayals of his subjects appear to reflect the attributes with which the West European Orientalists' of the period characterized the people of the Far East, namely, backwardness, barbarity, irrationality, violence, and mysticism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.113-123
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• 1998

This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.