• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 2009

This paper starts with the assumption that in order for the popularization of hanbok leading to greater interest among the public for Hanbok and its uses in everyday life, the period for Hanbok events each year must be solidified, making it a standardized provide opportunities for participation regardless of demographic. Globalization of Hanbok most occur through a combination of related academic fields, division of roles in fields of expertise, and a scientific understanding of Hanbok. Thus various Hanbok-related programs such as contests, fashion shows, experience centers and exhibitions should be provided in one unified setting. Government sponsored Hanbok cultural events have generally been aimed at foreigners or foreign human residency, while events in Korea hae generally been carried out by a more diverse rage of groups, making it difficult for the general population to obtain information or participate actively. In order for hanbok to maintain its tradition as the national costume of Korea, Long-term develop plans must be set. Along with popularization in order to bring hanbok into everyday life, methods for the globalization of hanbok must be explored, providing opportunities to spotlight the diversity and characteristics of Korean costumes, in various events which promote participation, festival-forming and globalization of hanbok culture considering elements such as time (yearly, monthly etc.) and audience (age group, social level etc.).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.71-87
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• 2007

Main role to expand the fashion in the middle age was played by aristocracy and knight. They contributed to the fashion of the middle age regardless of aesthetic sense. First, in any age, there was a self-display design using splendid decoration or material in the costume of high-class people. Aristocracy, especially, knight in the middle age classified themselves from others by wearing the costume suitable for their statuses. Second, the Crusade knight appearing all over the cinema gathered various peoples and caused acute optic angle about specialty of costume. Therefore the trend preferring foreign costumes was changed to new fashion while it was connected to desire searching for a change. Third, although armor of knight was created because of protection in the war, in the 13th century, its character of motion and defense was emphasized and it became splendid style. More over, the costume of knight was developed to more emphasize masculine beauty with heavy upper body and light lower body so it caused sexual difference of costume in the middle age. Fourth, As knight searched effective defensive weapon, chain mail was relegated by plate armor. The order of armor that the hight wore in 1350 was as follows. First, he wears adhesive shirts, braies, hose and wears metal protector on arm and leg. He wears padded undercoat called gambeson, hauberk, plate armor and surcoat on them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.458-469
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to prove that interchange is a primary factor in costume changes through case analysis in costume culture interchange, and further, to assist in gaining understanding of costume changes of the present and the future, and therefore, in this study, cases analysis was conducted focusing on interchange resulting from political factors. In order to present theories that are able to analyse costume culture interchange, culture, cultural exchange, and costume cultures were examined, and based on the results, a costume culture interchange process model and its three steps, propagation, selection, and reinterpretation, were presented. The results of case study on costume culture interchange resulting from political factors based on the costume culture interchange process model presented are as follows. Interchanges that politically uses the possibility of expressing costume as symbols are in most cases aggressive and semi aggressive. In order to exhibit superiority of themselves, the aggressors forced their national costumes onto the receiving culture. Rather than a simple introduction of their costumes, it was an attempt to introduce they values and their ways of life. The conclusion that can be reached through such result is that interchange is an important driving force for changes in costume culture. All interchanges were not greatly affected by methods of propagation and acceptance, and resulted in fusion. Fusion is a process in which existing costume and foreign costume come together constructively to for a new costume culture therefore change in costume style is inevitable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.13
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• pp.21-37
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• 1989

In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.25-35
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• 2006

This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.149-166
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was illumination of the stage costume by applying the study of a subject of human expression, which establishes identity of dramatic characters. This study was conducted by referring a variety of theses, an extensive national and international literature. The color symbolism that is depicted in Shakespeare‘s work manifests the transition period of old days, which was influenced by the Renaissance and the Religious Reformation. And color preferences and the meanings I attach to them in his play, definitely reveal the Middle Ages Christian way of thinking which was obsessively dominated their mind. I also determine that the color preferences and use in Elizabeth Era also distinctively separate the social status, which were also influenced by its social conditions. Besides this, colors that were depicted in Shakespeare's work also shown many similarities from Italian Commedia dell‘arte, which were in vogue all over the Europe. Customary color symbolisms which from natural color experiences were also applied in "The Tempest". "The Tempest" was presented on the first day of November in 1611 for the first time. Following this, many plays and films have been produced in foreign countries and Korea. With an analysis of "The Tempest", costume designs for Miranda and Ferdinanad were illustrated at the end. The costumes for Miranda and Ferdinand were mainly considered to express pure love and vigorous youth of two lovers, symbolizing the image of the theme love, forgiveness, and reconciliation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.18-35
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to offer a holistic description of the role demanded of costume designers to provide qualitative improvement of costume designs for small- and medium-sized musicals. The study accomplishes this by analyzing the relationship between the play and costume design in musicals and also by examining the process and environments in which costumes of small-sized theater companies' original musicals are produced. The methods of study are empirical research of literature related to dress, stage art, and culture & arts from both domestic and foreign publications; research of visual materials related to plays; and production and analysis of theatrical performances in which the researcher has participated as a costume designer. The results of the study are as follows. First, professionalism of the play and visual perfection of the work may be enhanced by costume designers actively participating in meetings with staff from each field of the play. Second, by taking advantage of the unique aspects of the work environment of small-sized theater companies' small- and medium-sized original musicals, such as harsh situations of regular and periodical meetings with all staff member, the designer may consider the director's intentions and concepts of the play, but should display more creative and autonomous design abilities. Third, because the costume designers of small- and medium-sized original musical plays are given a small budget and short production periods, the ability to systematically manage budget and production periods and the ability to flexibly handle unexpected incidents during the play is essential.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.63-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.41
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• pp.257-284
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• 2020

Goseong Ogwangdae started academic research in the late 1950s and was designated as a national intangible cultural asset in 1964. From the time of the academic survey to the time of designation, it was recorded as using paper masks, but when the recording image was filmed in 1965, it was already changed to wooden masks. In 1960, before being designated as an intangible cultural asset, the number of masks, which was 9 points, gradually increased to 19 points in 1964. It is necessarily included in the leper, Chorani, Malttuki, Cheongbo-Yangyang, Halmi, and Jemilju, but the character of the yangban is not yet clearly differentiated. Hwangbongsa and Sangju appeared as bare faces, and consumption, milling, Cheongbo-Yangyang are used together with Bibi and inspiration. It can be guessed that Bibi was not the appearance of a foreign object with horns as it is now, considering that Bibi and Madangsoi were used together. Since 1965, shortly after the designation, the whole of the Goseong Ogwangdae mask has been changed to a wooden mask. All the characters except for resident, courtyard, and top-of-the-line are wearing masks. Bibi, Hongbaek, and service masks have never appeared until 1964. The Yangban was changed to the closing ceremony with six people in the order of Won-Yangban, Baekje, Heukje, Cheongje, Hongbaek, and Jonggadoryong. Starting in 1969, the mask enters the stable period where the kind is the same as the present. Bibi-Yangban uses both the Won-Yangban and the Jemilju uses the Somu, but all other characters use the individual mask to use a total of 18 masks. The Yangbans are clearly differentiated, and a total of seven Yangban appear. The reason why the change in the type of mask and the expression of material is so large is that the first generation of mask makers died and the tradition of mask production was cut off, but there is also a cause of the extreme change in the environment of the drama that the performers who joined after the designation had to face. Also, it is closely related to the change of the times when the meaning and weight of masking in masking has changed. At that time, the performers were not so tied to the current concept of 'original form' that they preserved the appearance of the designated time. Originally, Goseong Ogwangdae was centered on improvisation dance, not the formalized dance as it is now, and there was a certain fluid aspect in the retelling, so it was flexible in the use of masks even before the designation of cultural assets. Strict rules did not apply in the details, as it was a self-sufficient play by the performers, not an offer event. The form and contents of this fluid play are changed to preparation for the performance while preparing for the folk art contest. As the subject of the contest in self-sufficient play, dance, costumes, and props became more and more colorful as well as dancing, costumes, and props. As a result, participation in the contest brought about changes in the overall performance and changed the mask, which was accepted within the preservation society.