Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.24
no.2
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pp.131-146
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2022
The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.
The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.
The retro fashion and orientalism have been the main trend in the fashion industry tram 2000 as the turning point tram the minimalism. In particular, the far eastern oriental ism, that is, Japanese orientalism had been rapidly spread from 2001. As the trend has been moving to Chinese orientalism from 2003, the fabrics with flower pattern prints and those imbued with Chinese orientalism that were popular in 1960 are the main stream in the textile industry at present. As keeping up with the current trend, this study analyzed the common features and differences between textile patterns with Chinese orientalism that are prevailing ai present and the textile patterns that were popular in 1960s through the film "In the Mood for Love" that told the story of people who immigrated from Shanghai to Hong Kong in 1960s. According to the analysis, the popular textile patterns in 1960s were splendid flower patterns, pop art and op art patterns. Such a trend was elegantly expressed as the textile pattern of Chinese orientalism using qipao in the film "In the Mood for Love".
Kim, Min Su;Kim, Han Na;Jeon, Sung Gi;Lee, Jung Soon
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.45
no.5
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pp.825-839
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2021
This study aims to develop jacquard fashion masks using traditional patterns and investigates the preference and emotions of consumers for them. Nine patterns were designed with the motifs of plum flower, turtle, and geometric patterns using an Adobe Illustrator program. After that, 20 kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed using those patterns, and prototype masks were made. Furthermore, data were collected using a survey of 231 adult consumers to understand the emotional images evoked by jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns. The results of the research show that the emotional dimension derived from jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns consists of seven factors: luxurious image, frugal image, feminine image, oriental image, sporty image, geometrical image, generous image. We found that consumers preferred the M6 with the plum flower pattern as the motif as the most preferred design, while M13 with the geometric pattern as the motif was the lowest preferred.
In human history, scarf has acted not only as a protection for body but also as a symbolization of class. Today, scarf has become a whole field in fashion and an important accessory to express individuality in fashion. Hence, like other fashion item, it is very important to develop exclusive design for scarf by analyzing the current fashion trend. In this research, we have designed a scarf textile, accordance with the contemporary design trend, applying the floral pattern, designed by William Morris who was an artist considered as the founder of the 1800s arts and crafts movement. We selected four trend themes, "Salon de Archives", "Eco Tech", "Profound Nature", and "Neo Aristo" for the design of 2007/2008 Fall/Winter. The flower motifs in Pimpernel Wallpaper, Honeysuckle textile design, Acanthus Wallpaper, Garden tulip wallpaper, Evenlode printed cotton, Trellis Wallpaper, and Chrysanthemum Wallpaper, by William Morris who expressed an image of environment friendly and nature reversion, applied to develop new creative scarf through design after modifying and rearranging these flower patterns. After the pattern was drawn by hand, adjusting of color and repeating of the design was done with DTP (Digital Textile Printing). Through this research, the researchers hopes to be of assistance to the development of national scarf brand design, and to the recapturing of textile industry that once played a important role in Koreans economic development.
The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.
This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.36
no.5
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pp.573-582
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2012
This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.1
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pp.113-123
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2011
The purposes of this study were to re-interpret the Traditional Korean Painting of Flower and Bird Patterns from a modern point of view and use them in apparel textile design. A literature review of the Traditional Korean Painting of Flower and Bird Patterns was made first, and then, through manual and Photoshop workings, two apparel textile designs were suggested. The results were as follows. First, Traditional Korean Paintings of Birds and Flowers are covered not only by decorative beauty but also by the common pure hope and ideology of loving and adoring nature, which is inherent in the symbolism and racial characteristics and high aesthetic sense appeared by ancestors' life feeling. The meaning that is symbolized by each subject matter appearing in the Transcontinental Painting of Bird and Flower is important, but the ancestors' deeper and affectionate desire is shown in the harmony and happy aspect of a picture where more than two subject matters appear, such as Song Hak do where pine is with crane, cockscomb with chicken, bamboo with beacon fire, or a couple of them with flower. Second, two kinds of textile designs were suggested. The motif of work 1 targeted professional women of activity and individuality in their late 30s to early 40s. The lotus blossom pattern was selected to present its concept, "Chic Elegance." The motif of work 2 targeted intelligent women in their mid 40s, and the peony blossom was selected to present its concept, "Romantic Elegance."
The purpose of this study is to infer the shape and change as auspicious symbolic meaning and figures of a peony pattern. For this study. I analyzed the example of a peony pattern, which is traditional Chinese pattern appeared on a ceramic and textile. The results of this study are as following. First, a peony has particular title, such as 'the king of flowers' and 'the most beautiful woman in country and the smell in heaven' originated in a verse of a poet at Dang's Dynasty. It is reputed to be the best of all flowers, representing beauty, and a beauty. Second, the basic meaning of a peony pattern used as auspicious pattern is prosperity and it has various meanings of it's similar kind through several auspicious objects and combination. Also, it was used for the purpose of adequating the desire of man's blessing mentality. Third, four kinds of characteristics of a peony pattern are as following. 1) A peony pattern has similar shape with 'Bosanghwamoon', which was used as a pattern at formerly period of peony flowers. It was used as realistic shape gave vividness to the characteristic of peony on the shape of 'Bosanghwamoon'. 2) 8-petaled, unique leaves and veins were described in detail by vivid sketching shape of real peony flower. 3) Laying stress on the characteristics of peony flower, which is large and magnificent, several folds petals were described abundantly by exaggerated shape or a shape of big honeycomb. And unique leaves were described realistically on these. 4) It was also expressed peculiar characteristic of peony flower composed of several pieces by weakened design shape.
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