• Title/Summary/Keyword: flat pattern making

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The Development and Application of Intelligent Welding Carriage with High Deposition Rate by 3-D Weaving (3차원 위빙 대용착 지능 용접캐리지 개발 및 적용)

  • Kim, Young-Zoo;Cho, Bang-Hyun;Amit, Amit;Lee, Sang-Bum;Lee, Weon-Gu;Kim, Jin-Yong;Huh, Man-Joo
    • Proceedings of the KWS Conference
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    • 2010.05a
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    • pp.65-65
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    • 2010
  • In shipbuilding industry, welding position are usually flat and vertical position at the erection stage. Application of SAW and EGW for these positions makes it possible to achieve enhanced productivity and high quality. But owing to their large size and weight it is difficult to apply these techniques in short and narrow regions. To overcome this problem, our company developed light weight and compact size 4-axis welding carriage which perform 3D weaving. The purpose of this study is to explain the development and application of intelligent welding carriage using 3D weaving pattern that can fill a large amount of welds and thereby making it possible to achieve high quality of welding. This study shows 3D weaving pattern, development of weaving database, and skill of adaptive control response for the variable gap. Also, it shows the results of procedure qualification test for the AH-grade steel when applied to the intelligent welding carriage.

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The Development and Application of Intelligent Welding Carriage with High Deposition Rate by 3-D Weaving (3차원 위빙 대용착 지능 용접캐리지 개발 및 적용)

  • Kim, Young-Zoo;Cho, Bang-Hyun;Amit, Amit;Lee, Sang-Bum;Lee, Weon-Gu;Kim, Jin-Yong;Huh, Man-Joo
    • Journal of Welding and Joining
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.32-38
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    • 2010
  • In shipbuilding industry, welding position are usually flat and vertical position at the erection stage. Application of SAW and EGW for these positions makes it possible to achieve enhanced productivity and high quality. But owing to their large size and weight it is difficult to apply these techniques in short and narrow regions. To overcome this problem, our company developed light weight and compact size 4-axis welding carriage which perform 3D weaving. The purpose of this study is to explain the development and application of intelligent welding carriage using 3D weaving pattern that can fill a large amount of welds and thereby making it possible to achieve high quality of welding. This study shows 3D weaving pattern, development of weaving database, and skill of adaptive control response for the variable gap. Also, it shows the results of procedure qualification test for the AH-grade steel when applied to the intelligent welding carriage.

The Comparative Analysis of 3D Software Virtual and Actual Wedding Dress

  • Yuan, Xin-Yi;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.21 no.6
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    • pp.47-65
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    • 2017
  • This study is intended to compare an actual wedding dress being made completely through 3D software, and compare it with an actual dress of a real model by using collective tools for comparative analysis. The method of the study was conducted via a literature review along with the production of the dresses. In the production, two wedding dresses for the small wedding ceremony were designed. Each of the design was made into both 3D and an actual garment. The results are as follows. First, the 3D whole body scanner reflects the measure of the exact human body size, however there were some difficulties in matching what the customer wanted, because the difference of the skin color and the hair style. Second, the pattern of the dress is much more easily altered than it was in the real production. Third, the silhouette of the virtual and the actual person with the dress was nearly the same. Fourth, textile tool was much more convenient because of the use of real-time rendering on the virtual dresses. Lastly, the lace and biz decoration were flat, and the luster was duller than in reality. Prospectively, the consumer will decide their own design of variety through the use of the avatar without wearing the actual dresses, and they would demand what the another one desired, different from the presented ones by making the corrections by themselves. Through this process, the consumer would be actively participating in the design, a step which would finally lead to the two way designing rather than the one way design of present times.

Evaluation of incremental sheet forming characteristics for 3D-structured aluminum sheet - part 2 (3D 구조 알루미늄 판재의 점진판재성형 특성 평가 (제2보))

  • Kim, Young-Suk;Do, Van-Cuong;Ahn, Dae-Chul
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.16 no.3
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    • pp.1585-1593
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    • 2015
  • 3D-structured (embossed) aluminum sheets have been used in the heat insulation purpose for automative exhaust parts because of increasing their surface areas and stiffness reinforcement imposed in making the embossing pattern. However, there are many restrictions in press forming of the embossed sheet compared with the flat sheet (non-embossed one) because of its difference in the mechanical properties and the geometrical 3-dimensional shape. In this paper we investigated the deformation characteristic of embossed aluminum sheet in the incremental sheet forming process which has frequently used in the design verification and the trial manufacturing of sheet products. The single point incremental forming (SPIF) experiments for the rectangular cone forming using the CNC machine with a chemical wood-machined die and a circular tool shape showed that the formability of the embossed sheet are better than that of the flat sheet in view of the maximum angle of cone forming. This comes from the fact that the embossed sheet between the tool and the elastic die wall is plastically compressed and the flatted area contributes to increase the plastic deformation. Also the tool path along the outward movement from the center showed a better formability than that of the inward movement from the edge. However the surface quality for the tool path along the outward movement evaluated from the surface deflection is inferior than that of the tool path along the inward movement.

A Study on Fashion Education Institution's Program on Apparel Prototype in Korea - Focused on Basic Bodice Patternmaking - (국내(國內) 패션관련 교육기관(敎育機關)의 의복원형(衣服原型) 교육실태(敎育實態) 연구(硏究) - 길원형(原型) 평면구성(平面構成)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Myung-Ock;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.129-147
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

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A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty (조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Yong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.4
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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A Study on the Actual Conditions of and Satisfaction with the Existed Female Dress Forms Usage (국내 여성용 인대 사용 실태 및 만족도에 관한 연구)

  • Park Gin-Ah;Lee Hye-Young;Choi Jin-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.3 s.151
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    • pp.378-385
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    • 2006
  • To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.