• 산업기술연구
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• 제21권B호
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• pp.175-185
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• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

• 산업기술연구
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• 제20권A호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2000

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves, and depth averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave. The numerical model is correctly formulated by using both the finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction and the explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference scheme, also satisfactorily verified by comparison with the other results. The behaviors of reflected and transmitted waves with respect to geometric parameters of submerged breakwater such as the slope, crest depth, and crest width are numerically analyzed in this study. In particular, the reflection and transmission coefficients are quantitatively calculated as the function of geometric parameter of submerged breakwater. It is found that the crest depth among parameters related to practical design may be the most important parameter in designing the submerged breakwater. Therefore, the effective and economic performances of submerged breakwater should be depended on the determination of optimal crest depth.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.161-167
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• 1992

서로 다른 유한수심을 갖는 두 영역을 연결하는 해저단위로 전파하는 비분산 유한진폭장파를 고려한다. 2차원 운동을 가정하고, 파봉선이 단과 평행하며, 비점성류체에서의 비회전운동으로 본다. 유한진폭파의 변형을 기술하기 위하여 유한진폭 천해정식과, 단위의 연결부에서 Riemann 변수로 나타낸 질양보존 및 압력연속조건들을 사용한다. 식들에 의하면 Riemann 불변양이 일정한 네 조의 특성유선과 입사, 반사 및 전달파의 진폭을 관련지어 주는 2개의 비선형방정식이 정의된다. 얻어진 방정식계는 통상의 형태로는 해석하기가 어려워 지진 해일파에 실용적으로 사용할 수 있는 특수한 경우만 고려한다. 얻어진 결과들을 장파이론과 비교하였고 아주 작은 진폭의 파인 경우에도 뚜렷한 비선형 효과가 제시되었다.

• 수산해양기술연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.31-35
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• 1986

A bore is a transition between different uniform flows of water. If a long wave of elevation travels in shallow water it steepens and forms a bore. The bore is undular if the change in surface elevation of the wave is less than 0.28 of the original depth of water. This paper describes the growth of an undular bore from a long wave which forms a gentle transition between a uniform flow and still water. A physical account of its development is followed by the results of numerical calculations. Finite-difference approximations are used in the partial differential equations of motion. For undular bores, numerical calculations show that (i) the relationship between relative elevation and relative velocity given by long wave theory is approached for an undular bore, (ii) the amplitude of first crest of an undular bore approaches a finite limit approximately at an exponential rate, and (iii) the distance between the first two crests increases without bound, approximately logarithmically.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.95-106
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• 1999

마찰의 효과가 고려된 유한 진폭 천수방정식을 이용하여 잠제 주변의 파랑장, 잠제에 의하여 발생되는 반사파와 투과파 뿐만 아니라 시간과 공간에 따른 자유수면 및 흐름의 동수역학적인 거동 특성을 해석할 수 있는 Lax-Wendroff 유한차분 수치모형이 수립되었다. 비선형 규칙파와 고립파가 입사하는 경우에 대한 해석 결과를 기존의 수치해 및 실험자료와 비교하여 수치모형이 만족스럽게 검증되었다. 규칙파에 대한 해석에서 잠제 전면에서 발생되는 반사파와 관련된 시간과 공간에 따른 자유수면의 변화나 흐름특성이 투과파의 그것보다 강하게 발생되는 것으로 나타나, 본 연구에서 해석된 제한적인 조건하에서는 잠제가 외해에서 내습하는 파랑에너지를 효율적으로 차단하는 것으로 밝혀졌다. 그러나 고립파의경우는 대부분의 파랑에너지가 잠제에 의하여 차단되지 않고 투과되는 것으로 나타났다. 마지막으로 파랑장의 동수역학적인 거동특성으로부터 잠제를 피복하고 있는 피복재의 안전성과 관련된 해석이 간접적으로 수행되었다.