• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.9
• /
• pp.1386-1397
• /
• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.275-292
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to recognize the aesthetic characteristics of the Maximalism depicted in contemporary costumes of new millennium. This is done by analyzing and examining the social and cultural background of fashion in the few years of 21st century. The fashion trend of the beginning of 21st century was coexisted conflicting factors with ultramodern factor and past recurrent factor. For that reason, new millennium is to be existence background of Maximalism style in contemporary costumes. The social and cultural background of Maximalism was regarded as characteristics of the Glocalism, fusion style, bobos. Glocalism means a compound word of Globalism and Localism, and used various fields of policy, economics, society etc. Consequently, the aesthetic formativeness of Maximalism of the contemporary costumes was investigated as the 'Romantic Hippie Look' and 'Romantic Sports Look' 1) Romantic Hippie Look New millennium fashion trend is affected by hippie style of 1970's. That is major reason that the antiwar consciousness of 9.11 terror, USA-Afganistan war and the economic depression is similar to 1970's situation. Accordingly, fashion trend is developed into bright, light, romantic style and fashion designers chose materials with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies pattern. Because the clothing of these material reflects well modern people's feeling to escape misgivings, unrest of political terror, war etc. The characteristics of hippie style expressed freedom as the greatest merit was raised new trend, so called 'Romantic Hippie Look' on new millennium. That is, the romantic hippie look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multiculturalism and nationalism. 2) Romantic Sports Look : The beginning of new millennium, many fashion designers intend to graft the details of sports wear on order made or ready made clothing and try to show luxury and cheerful fashion design with combination of sporty and romantic factors. Accordingly, theses fashion trends expressed 'Romantic Sports Look' with a harmony or disharmony of unusual factors. The fashion trend of new millennium centering around special cities like New York, Paris, Milan moved to various regional culture. Accordingly, the features of fashion depicted not unique theme but multiplicity of the clothing of dissimilar style or material by the mixture of 2 or 3 factors like the fusion of femininity and masculinity and the combination of past and present of details. That is, the romantic sports look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multi-functional and crossover.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.5
• /
• pp.99-112
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.7
• /
• pp.125-134
• /
• 2011

Sumuk drawings are made with water and muk(墨), which are used to express the light, shade and texture of an object. The expression methods of oriental drawing can be divided into three methods: pictorialization, abstractness and realism. The method of pictorialization expresses traditional pictures or letters. Abstractness show an artist's aesthetic feeling through sprinkling, splashing and spreading diffusion of muk. The method of realism is Takbon which makes a copy painting directly from a monument by rubbing a paper with ink. Modern fashion designer attempts to develop a new Sumuk technique based on both oriental drawing style and western watercolor painting style. Rather than following the designated styles of oriental drawings and Korean drawings, new Sumuk technique colors detailed structures expressed as outlines, dots and lines or creates abstract patterns through spreading or spilling in showing theme of flowers, plants and insects. In this study, in order to develop fashion cultural products with Sumuk technique, rubbed copy of the ancient 'Emile bell Takbon' was used. For this study, with the combination of different colors and the patterns from 'Emile bell Takbon', designs for scarfs, shirts and one-piece dresses were created. These techniques enabled to express soft and strong Takbon image in simple Sumuk technique in harmony with modern trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Floral Art and Design
• /
• no.44
• /
• pp.101-121
• /
• 2021

The flower, a symbol of beauty representing beauty, exists as an aesthetic object throughout the history of mankind, and is one of the motifs most often used in plastic art. In this way, flower art is an art that embodies a form based on the theme of flowers. The flowers played a role in expressing human happiness and love by harmonizing beautifully with each other in shape and color. The flower pattern containing this symbolism is beautiful and excellent in decoration, and is applied not only to household goods, but also to art and fashion. The flower pattern is the most preferred pattern among patterns, and it is widely used regardless of the four seasons by changing the color according to the color and flowering time, and it is effective in stimulating the symbolism and psychological sense of humans, so it is used in design in various fields. In this study, the flower pattern, which is a symbol of beauty representing beauty and the motif of art, has been traditionally used in Korea, and is still loved in fashion and art even in modern times. We hoped to be active, and through this study, we tried to develop our own unique flower pattern and lay the groundwork for it to be commercialized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.108-123
• /
• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
• /
• pp.414-424
• /
• 2005

This study aims to suggest new directions for the development of make-up design by understanding characteristics of deconstruction make-up and to search for new directions and methods in theme expressions and design conceptions by making illustrations with deconstruction themes. This study examines conceptual characteristics of Derrida's deconstruction, and analyzes the various deconstruction make-up styles through the famous fashion magazines such as Beauty Collection, Collections, Fem, Modain, and Vogue since 1997. The make-up illustration works in this study were made depending on these styles. At first, the nature of deconsouction make-up can be explained as deconstruction of existing methods, deconstruction of the sexes and deconstruction of history or ethnicity. The deconstruction of existing methods can be subdivided into decadence make-up, detester make-up, graphic make-up and collage make-up. Deconstruction of the sexes can be explained androgynous make-up. Deconstruction of history or ethnicity is subdivided into white makeup, ancient Egyptian dark eye make-up and raceless make-up. The deconstruction make-up illustrations present infinite possibilities in expression styles through three dimensional expressions and media mixture using not only drawing materials including watercolor, poster-color, and color pencils but also objets including magazines, coarse fabrics, screentone, beads, suede, sand and so on. The study shows that since deconstruction make-up illustrations are not limited to depiction-centered expressions, they serve creating unique images and future inspirations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.44 no.3
• /
• pp.413-426
• /
• 2020

This study researches the association between associative vocabulary and fashion image language in order to extract ideas that can be used as basic data for design ideas. Classic - avant-garde imaged language were chosen as theme words and each 70 questionnaires per a final image word were used for analysis. We obtained the following results by researching keywords that explained classic image words through a word cloud technique. It was found to have high central representation in the order of suit, classical, basic, music, Chanel, black and traditional. The core key words explaining avant-garde image language were found to have a central representation in the order of : peculiar, huge, Comme des Garçons, artistic, creative, deconstruction and individuality. We extracted the necessary idea dimensions needed for design ideas through associative network graph analysis. In the case of classical image language, it was named as the Mannish Item, Music, Modern Color, and the Traditional Classicality dimensions. In the case of avant-garde image language, it was named as the Key Image, Artistic Aura, Key Design and Designers dimensions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.115-126
• /
• 2016

Today the Olympics are considered representative of a culture that symbolizes the country's image and cultural specificity, and important colors act as effective means of Olympics marketing. Each color is unique to the natural environment and cultural heritage is one of the languages of each country, region or community and it symbolizes. Hence, the purpose of this study was to examine the color and to view the color image displayed on Olympic uniforms based on the national color sensibility. After analyzing the color image of the Olympic athletes, including six kinds of uniforms and operational personnel, a cool casual/casual image is created more frequently, followed by a modern, gorgeous, dynamic, elegant/chic, dandy/classic image. The uniform color is consistent with the national image and the theme of the Pyeongchang Olympics is to enhance the country's competitiveness by widely promoting the national image of Korea around the world. Furthermore, it is necessary to provide the empirical basis for creating the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Olympic uniforms.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.79-97
• /
• 2008

This paper is a study on the Bisotun relief of the Achaemenid Dynasty in ancient Persia. The Bisotun relief consists of the relief and the inscriptions which was completed through 7 phases. The inscriptions describe how King Darius suppressed the rebels in Elamite, Babili and ancient Persian languages. This relief is a work during the early Darius period and it describes using the traditions of Mesopotamia in terms of the theme and structure. In terms of structural features, it follows the typical features of the Assyrian arts, the beard and the shape of hair style. On the other hand, the smooth curves used to describe the creases of the clothes and the supple body was not a typical oriental feature. It was known to be because of Greek influence from their communications. It also showed the dressings of the clans that made up the Achaemenid Dynasty through the 9 rebellions wearing clothes unique to their clan and the inscription that was inscribed with the name of the clans. The clothing and ornaments they were wearing can be divided into two groups, the clans that wore one-piece style Persian dress and clans that wore tunic jackets and trousers which is a typical dressing style of the nomads.