• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.57-57
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• 2011

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.211-223
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• 2018

In global apparel product development, flat is one of the most important key factor for technical design communication. Proportionally correct flats based on correct scaled human body figures are imperative to be successful in the fashion business. In this study the researchers were to develop body templates for flats for Korean women body types using data from 'Size Korea 2004 (5th)', which is a Korean government apparel sizing project to analyze women's body measurements (age range 7-49). We measured 13 height measurements, 6 width measurements, 8 circumference measurements, 6 length measurements, 3 angle measurements and 5 body measurements. A body figure (i.e., schema) for each group was created by Pattern Design Software (PAD) System 4.1. Muscle was added to the schema created by Adobe Illustrator to ensure a better visualization and convenience for industry uses for flats. Developed body figure template of representative type had the largest difference in height level compared to exiting figures. It had a bigger head, lower crotch level, and longer crotch depth and hip length than existing figures.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.676-685
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• 2020

This study developed smart vests with heat and massage functions that changed patterns, designs, materials, etc., and evaluated their functions and satisfaction. A knitted fabric with good elasticity and a heating lining were used, and in consideration of this, the final vest pattern fitted to the upper body was completed. A heat pad was attached to the back, and 6 vibration motors were attached to the trapezius muscle. The controller was placed on the left chest for easy operation, and the battery was stored in an inner pocket under the controller. The heating effect of the smart vest, the location of the devices, and the ease of operation were excellent. When the massage function was operated, the thermal comfort was increased compared to when the massage function was not operated, and the high thermal comfort was perceived by the operation of heat and heat+massage function. Due to the battery, the weight, irritating contact of devices and wearing sensation decreased, but there was no reduction in wearing sensation due to heat and vibration devices. The greater the satisfaction with the massage function, thermal comfort, fit, appearance and weight, the greater the product satisfaction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.445-449
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• 2007

The results of warmth retaining, heat transfer and compressive elastic recovery of the five kinds of bedspread fabrics, which were produced from packing weft of 2700 denier and 3600 denier batt yarn treated with raw material of Polyester $150^D$/48 DTY, are as follows: 1) 3600 denier packing weft showed lover count in compressive elastic recovery than 2700d packing weft, so it took longer time to recover. 2) When packing weft of the same count is used, a sample of packing weft with higher density showed lower recovery. 3) It took 2700d packing weft 30min to get approximately 98% recovery in temperature $30^{\circ}C$. But, 3600d packing weft stayed under 98% recovery in the same temperature. Considering only the result of compressive elastic recovery, we should use 2700d packing weft. 4) The higher the density of packing weft is, the higher warmth retaining becomes. Although sharp increase appeared until 5min, equilibrium was kept without any increase after that time. 5) When 2700d packing weft was used, the maximum warmth retaining was approximately 60% and 64% in the conditions of density 12(thread/in) and 22(thread/in) respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.16 no.8
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• pp.15-27
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• 2018

Purpose - The purpose of the study is to examine the relationships among the following retail operations variables: retail store operations (i.e., store management, sales personnel, promotion of merchandise), success of assortment planning, firm performance (i.e., market share, overall competitive position, profitability, product quality, consumer satisfaction), and retail buyer's demographics and firm's characteristics. Research design, data, and methodology - After conducting a pilot test, the survey was conducted in Seoul, South Korea. With using the listwise deletion method, 378 usable data sets were analyzed. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) methods were employed. Results - As evidenced from the path diagram, the relationship between retail store operations and the success of assortment planning is strong and significant. Retail store operations affect firm performance, though at a weaker significance than it affects the success of assortment planning. The relationship between the success of assortment planning and firm performance, is the strongest relationship observed by this research. Conclusions - The findings of this empirical study contribute to the retail/fashion buying/management field by confirming (a) the importance of assortment planning for retail firm performance and (b) the role of store operations for successful assortment planning and firm performance for fashion retailers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.347-350
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• 2007

To analyse basic properties for making packing batt according to doubling condition, packing batt yarn, of $300^D$, $900^D$, $3600^D$ made from DTY yarn $150^D$/48 were produced from KTDI. The results are as follows: The birefringence of the sample yarn increased with increasing the annealing temperature and denier. The initial modulus of the sample yarn decreased with increasing the annealing temperature and denier. The higher than annealing temperature of $160^{\circ}C$, initial modulus of the sample are equilibrated. The strain recovery ratio of samples decreased with increasing the annealing temperature and denier. The lower than annealing temperature of $140^{\circ}C$, strain recovery ratio of the sample are decreased Where the $900^D$, $3600^D$ yarns are at $100^{\circ}C$ the specific bending rigidity value obtained is 0.65kgf/d but the twisted yarn (3,600) obtained 0.006 ($gfcm^2/tex^2$). However, where the heat temperature is $160^{\circ}C$, specific bending rigidity value obtained 0.003($gfcm^2/tex^2$).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.500-507
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• 2010

In this study, physical properties were studied by using latent stretching yarn in order to develop the texturing yarn technique for super bulky yarn, which is better in bulkiness and handle than natural wool and also adds property of synthetic fiber to natural wool. In order to obtain textured conditions by analysing basic properties for manufacturing DTY yarn with super bulky property, DTY 50d/12 after spinning latent yarn spined POY 80d/12 was obtained under the two conditions of (i) false twist(T/M) level 3 in DTY texturing and (ii) draw ratio level 4 in draw texturing. For DTY texturing yarn, Elongation rate increased as the heat treatment time and temperatures increased. In addition, shrinkage became higher as false twist was higher, so that elongation rate became lower. When annealing became longer in time and higher in temperature, initial modulus increased. In addition, as the count of false twist increased, the initial modulus showed higher values. For draw texturing yarn, under the conditions of heat temperature 180 and heating time 30 minutes, shrinkage rate in draw ratio 1.55 and 1.6 draw ratio was 7%, and that in 1.65 and 1.7 draw ratio was 8.5%. High draw ratio samples' tenacity was much influenced by heating time and temperature, but low draw ratio samples' tenacity was influenced not by treated time, but by treated temperature.