• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.327-338
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• 2002

The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2009

This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권3호
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• pp.452-473
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• 2018

This study analyzed the expressions of racing girl uniforms that promote automobile brands shown at Seoul and Busan motor shows. The results are as follows. In each of the design components expression, the glossy and plain material, the achromatic color, and the dress style appeared most frequently in the uniform design of both domestic and foreign automobile brands. In the fashion image expression, sexy image appeared the most, followed by modern image, romantic image, active image, elegance image and ethnic image. Based on the analysis results, the following expressive characteristics were identified: First, sexy images were used in uniform design to express the streamline and speedy feeling of a car metaphorically. Second, modern image, glossy material, and achromatic color were used for a uniform design to express advanced technology and the future orientation of an automobile. Third, fashion images that match the automobile type emphasized the brand image of the car. Fourth, some of the manufacturers that prevailed in the automobile market promoted several automobile brands exhibited with a unified uniform design that expressed the design philosophy and concept. As such, the motor show racing girl uniform contributed to promoting automobile brand identity and the automobile industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.681-706
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• 2000

This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.335-344
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• 2007

<훈민정음>이야말로.세계적인.멋지음(디자인)이다.. 한글은.큰.멋짓이다.. 한글.디자인의.의도,.철학적.배경,.운용.원리.및. 사용.방법을.간명하게.적어놓은. <훈민정음>.역시.세계적인.디자인.이론서이다.. 디자인의.우리말은.'멋지음',.'멋짓'이다.. 디자인은.그.무엇의.멋지음이다.. 멋지음은.때로.꼴을.가지지.않은.것,. 얼을.짓는.것(디자인하기)이며,. 생각을.어떤.꼴로.만들어내는.'지음'이기도.하다.. 멋짓은.디자이닝의.행위를.포괄한다.. 그.중.시각디자인은.'봄멋짓',. 패션디자인.은.'옷멋짓'.등이라.할.수.있다.. 글꼴멋짓(타이포그라피)은.봄멋짓의.등뼈.. 한글.멋짓은.우리.멋짓의.기둥. 멋의.바탕은.어울림이다.. 다름이.살아있는.멋.. 그것은.우리.디자인의.제다움(정체성)과도. 통하는.것이다.. 이렇듯.'멋지음,.멋짓'이라는.우리말로.보면. 다른.나라.말에서.오는.'디자인'이라는.말에서.느끼던.것과.다르게.새로운.면이.느끼게.되며.보이게.된다..

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2006년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.109-114
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• 2006

The world has become one united world so that it is worthless to divide it into two; the East and West. In the 20th century, eastern perspectives proliferated in western science involving theology, philosophy and psychotherapy. In this time of various trends of ideas emerged minimalism, artistic and cultural current seeking simplicity and conciseness. This current of idea appeared about the time of World War II in visual art, and then expanded to other fields like music, architecture, fashion and philosophy in diverse forms. Minimalism is also presented in interior space with extreme form of simplicity and detail, revealing parts of the space as delicate and pure style with emphasis on purity of the space itself. In this research, demonstrate clear features of eastern view of space appeared in minimalism of interior design mainly in America. The reason the scope of study is limited to America is that America is the origin of minimal art and has been hub of modern design since the 1930s. The research, first, finds out the origin and conceptual idea of minimalism and features of eastern view of space. Based on this understanding, further study has been carried to discover relation of minimalistic interior space to eastern view of space and to analyze eastern characteristic expressed in minimalistic space by examination of cases pertaining to commercial space.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1395-1403
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• 2004

Exposure and Concealment have been continued as important way to express fashion and theme as well, especially in women fashion. Exposure can make themselves attractive, and concealment emphasizes this way of being attractive by exposure. Besides the temptable effect of exposure, the ideology which put women next men in society has made a prominence on the fact exposure is significant theme in women fashion. It means that women's image of 'Being seen as Object' (this can be explained by relation passive between active) in society has driven female emphasize in using and focusing on exposure to be attractive. Also the other important thing in women fashion has been considered is concealment. The fact that society has demand women more chaste duty in detail may have meaningful thing in the condition that instigates women take off being attractive to the subject, considering ideology, men. Therefore attractive femininity has to be suggested by virtue and temptation, it is common sense that looking just shallow or too strict are far from criteria of ideal beauty. Namely, the concept for exposure coexists with concealment not only constructively but also naturally in fashion. Technique that can be accentuate for effective exposure differently from method to show unilaterally is needed, and this technique can promote new fashion. And according to the theory of Freud, women means' Absence (lacking penis)', this female's Lack Image induces male castration complex therefore 'Fetishistic Look' which transfers something phallic into specific things or parts of body is adopted, sort of object cathexis. This is revealed as some parts of women body are diverted into object for sexual love, symbolic equivalent. For example, women's parts like legs or breast are remarked as erotogenic zone and as time goes, when no more the zone are felt sexual by exposure, other somewhere felt mysterious (felt something sexual) used to be stressed by exposing. As it were, it can be possible that exposing part on women body (sexual part) moved as time passed because of what previously stated. Especially, the concept of exposure and concealment in women fashion should explain not only from a point of view of style for the beautifulness but also from wearer's immanent intention, further more relationship with ideology. About the present situation becoming bolder in women fashion, it is said that women express confidence as the position of women is elevated higher socially, the more women get freedom. But if we consider this psychoanalysis opinion mentioned ahead, the possibility can not be excluded that the exposure can get emphasizing according as the need of feminine modesty gets decreasing from ideal femininity society, men want. This study about exposure and concealment was made progressed through the theory of Freud who originated psychoanalysis, presented many theories. But nowadays contradictions are being brought up against Freud's theory including conventional philosophy like male chauvinism and adjust studies get suggested. Hereupon, there may be limitation in making no allowance of contradiction and following his theory.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.111-134
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• 2016

A luxury brand bag is a medium to symbolize brand identity and plays a role in enhancing brand value. A typical example is a designer signature bag such as Hermes Kelly Bag, Birkin Bag, and Lady Dior Bag. The purpose of this study is to analyze the design changes and acceptance of identity of luxury brand bags and examine the design characteristics that succeed to the value of a luxury brand bag. The subjects of the study focused on Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel bags. Photos were collected from www.vogue.co. uk. based on the fashion collections from S/S 2007 to S/S 2016. The study methodology was to analyze the kinds, shapes, colors, materials, and the ornament of subject bags based on previous studies. The results of the study were summarized as follows. For the identity and design changes of each brand, Chanel has tried to combine functionality pursued in the past with constantly changing femininity by making bags in fantastic moods using various materials and free shapes. Gucci has constantly used Ornament elements holding the brand identity of classic bags and trend colors to keep tradition. Louis Vuitton holds fast to its functional shape to protect brand identity through design philosophy that started with a travel luggage and attempts to express modern emotion through Ornament changes. This study confirmed that luxury brands have accepted their unique design characteristics holding brand identity to improve their brand value and attempted to change constructive elements in many different ways for modern reinterpretation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.74-90
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• 2008

Since the late of 20th Century, philosophy, art, and aesthetics have attention to the movement of object that persue the dynamics and qualitative change, not existing fixed and quantitative object. Qualitative continuity, including discontinuity of specific spot and surface that occurs sudden change, is distinct characteristics considered in contemporary logo civilization, which combines and disperses according as various purpose among the different elements and objects. Therefore, I studied about the characteristics of qualitative continuity that creates the change and the differentiation continuously through the "formative characteristics of the continuity expressed in contemporary fashion" of my preceding paper. This paper is the following study of above mentioned paper, and Investigates about aesthetic consciousness leading to the various change. This is intends to consider the trans-aesthetic consciousness that accepts dynamic movement and change the different object and reforms new relationship continuously. This studies' conclusion is as follows; 1) sublimity-Infinity, de-constructive, excessive 2) jouissance - functional, structural 3) paradox-perceptual, spatial. A study about the trans-aesthetic consciousness would help to offer philosophical basis, and make a change building aesthetic foundation in explaining various relationship like as phenomenon of the retro, neo, post, fusion expressed since the late of 20th Century.