This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.
In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.33
no.6
/
pp.980-989
/
2009
Amur cork tree was extracted in methanol with the purpose of investigating the most effective extraction procedure for detecting the chromophore using the GC-MS analysis. Different procedures of waterbath and hotplate extractions were carried out and five different GC-MS instrument parameters including the operating temperatures in the GC capillary column and the MSD scan range were tested for their efficiencies. Berberine was determined by the detection of dihydroberberine at 15.0 min r.t. Hotplate was a better device for extracting amur cork tree than waterbath shaker either with or without presoaking in the room temperature. Water was not an adequate extraction medium for the berberine detection. The most effective GC-MS parameter was Method 4; the initial temperature at $50^{\circ}C$ followed by the temperature increase of $23^{\circ}C$/min until $210^{\circ}C$, then increase of $30^{\circ}C$/min until the final temperature reach at $305^{\circ}C$, then hold for 14 minutes to maintain the total run time 24.12 minutes. The MSD scan range for Method 4 was $35\sim400$m/z.
This study was intended to survey on the restaurant selection preferences by elderly consumers' values and lifestyle. The survey was residing in Seoul and men and women who were 55 years of age or older to achieve the purpose of this study, the theoretical and empirical research methods research methods were combined. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, Action oriented intrinsic value of elderly consumers highest lifestyle influence. This is an internal value-oriented elderly consumers to follow the latest fashion trends and challenges in the new one, we enjoyed the service and sometimes want to experience the frenetic fun means. Second, Realization oriented lifestyle on the Brand standards, food quality standards, environmental standards positive effect was found to be Principle oriented life style based on the environment positively influence. This trend Principle oriented lifestyle can talk comfortably while you can relax and quiet around people, mainly from a reputable place, and action-oriented selection of the hotels facilities and senior discount price menu and the service is friendly and Notice that if you use a little less meoleodo, and these results are only for the elderly consumers with access privileges and services using the factors of elderly consumers loyalty and Catering Food service satisfaction should be efforts to raise. Third, elderly consumers select attribute value and proven results Food service elderly consumers based on personal values and lifestyle are different catering companies can select the properties that standard means, elderly consumers are value-oriented properties and select the Food Service Industry catering companies by identifying the active elderly consumers in future marketing strategies to be able to bring a positive impact considered.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.29
no.12
s.148
/
pp.1608-1618
/
2005
The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at $7^{\circ}C$ (LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at $100^{\circ}C$ (OV), and $H_2O_2/UV(PER)$ method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.31
no.12
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pp.1653-1661
/
2007
The research aimed to establish the standard extraction procedure for examining brazilin, the major chromophoric substance of Sappanwood, using GC-MS with the ultimate goal of identifying the sappanwood dye in severely faded archaeological textiles. The amount of brazilin represented by the GC abundance was the largest when acetone was used as the extraction medium, followed by methanol. Shaking plate operated at room temperature was more effective than the waterbath shaker which was operated at $30^{\circ}C$. In both cases, the extraction method which incorporated one hour pre-soaking before the 12 hours of actual extraction resulted in a larger amount of brazilin detection than the extraction procedure without the one hour pre-soaking. In case of water extraction, pH 5 resulted in the most effective pH level for the extraction of brazilin, The best GC-MS parameter for detecting brazilin was to set the column temperature initially at $50^{\circ}C$. gradually increase to $210^{\circ}C$ at a $23^{\circ}C/min$ rate, finally increase to $305^{\circ}C$ at $30^{\circ}C/min$ rate, and hold for 14 minutes, and the MSD scan range at $75{\sim}400m/z$.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.7
s.155
/
pp.1025-1033
/
2006
Kenaf bast can be obtained by decortication of Kenaf stem. Kenaf fibers are much more rough than cotton fiber because they include impurities as pectin, lignin and hemicellulose besides cellulose. The purpose of this research is to investigate the distribution of kenaf fiber length and diameter during the processes of removing impurities. To remove pectin, kenaf bast was retted chemically. A half of the retted kenaf fiber bundle were scoured and bleached. The other half one were treated with $NaClO_2$ solution to remove lignin, and were treated with sodium hydroxide solution to remove hemicellulose. Four kinds of specimens that were obtained for investigating physical characteristics. Length and diameter of 100 fibers on each specimen was measured. The tensile strength of 100 fiber bundles were measured. And also the color values of them were measured with spectrocolorimeter. The length of retted kenaf fiber was 16.97cm. Then it decreased to 11.43cm after bleaching. Kenaf fiber bundles could be finer by chemical processes that remove non-cellulosic materials. The thickness of retted fiber was $132{\mu}m$. And after undergoing the chemical processes to remove non-cellulosic materials, the thickness of kenaf fiber became finer as $73{\mu}m$. Tensile strength of the retted kenaf fiber bundles was 11.37Mpa. The retted kenaf fiber lost their strength as 22.6% by bleaching and as 18.3% by treatment for removing lignin. The retted kenaf fiber showed low whiteness as 56.48 of L*value. After bleaching, the kenaf fibers have creamy white color and their whiteness got 90.02 of L*value. After the treatment for removing hemicellulose, the kenaf fibers also have creamy white color and their whiteness got L* value of 79.02.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.12
/
pp.2002-2010
/
2009
The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of $100^{\circ}C$ thermal and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl) oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-,1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.41
no.1
/
pp.84-97
/
2017
Water vapor and thermal transmission properties of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort; in addition, the measuring methods of these properties are also critical for breathable and warm suit fabrics. In this study, the water vapor and thermal properties of composite yarn fabrics made of CoolMax, Tencel, and Bamboo fibers with filaments were measured and compared according to the measuring method. Water Vapor Transmittance (WVT) of the fabric woven by the sheath/core composite yarn in the warp direction was the highest due to the small staple fiber volume in the sheath/core yarn structure and high air voids in the sheath/core yarn fabrics. This property was also the highest in fabrics woven by bamboo staple yarns in the weft direction, and was the lowest on hi-multi filament fabrics. However, water vapor resistance ($R_{ef}$) of these fabrics by KSK ISO 11092 showed the opposite results to the water vapor transmittance method ($CaCl_2$ method); in addition, its correlation coefficient was low. The correlation coefficient between $R_{ef}$ and the drying rate was 0.719; therefore, the measurement mechanism of $R_{ef}$ is analogous to the drying property measurement. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics woven with compact staple yarn showed a high value; however, the hi-multi filament fabric showed low thermal conductivity. Therefore, fiber characteristics affect thermal properties more than yarn structure. The correlation between thermal property and moisture transport was also low. This study showed that: water vapor transmittance was active at the loose yarn structure, dry heat transport was vigorous at the compact yarn structure, and heat transport was affected more by fiber characteristics than yarn structure. In conclusion, sheath/core composite yarns were relevant to the high absorptive cool suit along with siro-fil and CoolMax/Bamboo staple yarns that were relevant to the heat diffusive cool suit.
To quantitatively analyze the effects of color stimulation which is one of the major affecting factors on human emotion, we studied the relationship between color preference and the Electroencephalography (EEG) to 3 color stimuli; bright yellow red (BYR), deep green yellow (DGY), and vivid blue (VB). Physiological signal measured by EEG on the color stimulation was closely related with their well-known colorful images. The brain become more activated with decreasing the color temperature (BYR${\geq}$DGY>VB), and the right brain is more sensitive than the left. On the whole, the EEG values of the frequency bands are in order to beta ${\geq}$ theta and alpha > gamma. As decreasing the color temperature, beta wave increased (BYR${\geq}$DGY>VB), and alpha, beta and gamma waves increased with increasing the color temperature (BYR${\geq}$DGY>VB). The relationship between the color preference and EEG values showed EEG gets more activated at some frequency bands when the color preference becomes higher. In conclusion, the specific frequency band could be activating by a color stimuli which had showed higher the preference. It means that these color stimuli can apply for various industries such as beauty industry, interior design, fashion design, color therapy, and etc.
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