• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.154-168
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• 2001

This study is intended to understand an implication and significant of anti-design and Italian radical fashion. Anti-design and radicalism is the main stream or origin and essence of post-modernism which hs been swaying our society at large through modern culture, economy, art, fashion etc, from the latter part of 1960s. In this paper, the author classified the italian radical fashion with the Archizoom, the Alchymia, the memphis fashion. In post-modernism fashion, radical fashion design of the Archizoom, Alchymia and Memphis group is in part a menifesto and in part a noncanonical history of the most progressive and heretical experiments of the world of fashion. Anti-designers of Italy call for a theory an practive in which the old methods and instruments and the old commendments of modernism are banished. They looked on fashion as material culture, a creative field with its own independent foundation and endowed with its own strong artistic intuition. IF radical design is dead, the energy it has stirred up is still alive nd kicking. One of the most progressive and well-informed culture milieus in Milian, seved as a point of reference for the vanguard of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.28-37
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• 1991

Clothing and Textiles was introduced in the 1950s to Korea and has been developed. At this moment, it seems to be valuable to identify state of art of researches in clothing and textiles field. The purpose of the study was to investigate trends of subject-matter emphasis in clothing and textiles. The data were included clothing and textiles related research articles published in three professional journals from 1959 through 1990 and condensed at 5 year intervals. The identified 620 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: clothing construction, textiles, history of costume, design and aesthetics, socio-psychological aspect of clothing, and fashion merchandising. The results were as follows: 1. Since 1959, there has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as well as in quality of research particulary considering the short history of the field. 2. The number of each area research was ranked as follows: 1) textiles (217) 2) history of costume (173) 3) socio-psychological aspect of clothing (88) 4) clothing construction (79) 5) fashion merchandising (34) 6) design and aesthetics (22) and others (7) 3. In the area of textiles, the most dominant area was clothing management (102 out of 217) and clothing hygenics research was getting increased from the late of 1980 through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 4. In the area of history of costume, most of the research have been published through Journal of Korean Costume Society. History of korean costume was the most dominant area (120 out of 173) and history of eastern costume area was getting increased from the late of 1980s. 5. In the area of socio-psychological clothing, the research was accelated in the beginning of 1980s through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, while the research was decreased a· little in the late of 1980s. 6. In the area of clothing construction, it was revealed its decrease the percentage of total number of research and most of them were published through Journal of Korean Home Economics. 7. In the area of fashion merchandising, there has been continuous increase in the number of research from the late of 1970s to 1990, present. For the future direction, implications for interdisciplinary and ecological approach were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

This study was conducted to examine how patchwork was expressed in fashion based on theoretical background on its brief history and expression styles and to show its possibility of creating ways for new expression in modern fashion. This study reviewed literatures on definition, history and styles of patchwork and investigated mainly works, which had been presented in collections home and abroad since 2000, to analyze its expressive characteristics shown in modern fashion. According to analysis on the expression of patchwork, it used various painting techniques such as patterns, colors and surface effect. It included patchwork having patterns provoking elusion of fairy tails; containing painting expression of reproducing works of artists; using colors boldly and contrasting strong primary colors directly to establish purity of painting and to pursuit characteristic expression; and using expression techniques of pure art such as gradation and cutting. Second, it used a compromise expression in materials, methods and substances. Patchwork which had used cloth without a pattern or printed fabric, utilized various materials like vinyl, paper, leather, metal and plastic and had a figurative value showing a solid expression as an objet itself with new techniques and changes of connecting methods. Thirdly, it used tradition patchwork techniques. Pieced patchwork, crazy patchwork and images of traditional odd ends of cloth covering a meal were applied to a whole area or a part of cloth to avoid monotony of design and to use it as a decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.77-93
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the fashion collection of Hussein Chalayan who has changed the concept of fashion design in the 21st century and has pioneered in the new vision of fashion. This study will give a new perspective and perception of fashion as a conceptual and ideological art. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, Hussein Chalayan's multicultural ideas and interdisciplinary approaches which based in national speciality are the unique elements in his works. Second, Hussein Chalayan intends to present his works as an expression of conception. He has expressed the clothes which speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space and investigates the existence of human being. Third, Hussein Chalayan has asked an endless question about existence of the human being. Furthermore, He has put a question about the relationship between time, space, history, nature and the human being. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works of art makes him as the designer who represents the 21st century. Forth, Hussein Chalayan pursues the communication between the human being and the world. His works is made for human being and makes the human life as valuable thing. Because the clothes is completed when the human wears it, it can not exist without the relationship of human being. Fifth, Hussein Chalayan makes a various attempt to combine with different artistic field. Fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trial and combination beyond fashion field and this has to be a direction in the 21st century fashion. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.21-34
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to examine the main characteristics of strategies and fashion styles in fast fashion. Ultimately, this study is aimed to give useful information to develop fast fashion companies in Korean apparel industry. There are several strategies commonly applied in most fast fashion companies. First, they produce a wide range of numerous items. Second, the price is very reasonable. The primary objective of fast fashion is to quickly produce products in a cost efficient manner. Third, fast fashion companies take charge in the whole process from designing and manufacturing to distribution and sales. Forth, while almost all apparel companies invest a large amount in advertisement to promote sales, most fast fashion companies invest in VMD instead. Also, the fashion style of fast fashion were examined. First, casual style dominated a big part in composition of the entire style. Second, they use various kinds of different fabrics. For example, natural fabrics including organic and recycled fabrics, denims, newly invented high-tech fabrics, and decorative fabrics are widely used. Third, fast fashion brands produce fashion product based on the most recent fashion trends. Forth, they pursue high quality design. Retailers' understanding of the target market's wants realizes the consumer to thrive on constant change and the frequent availability of new products. Accordingly, fast fashion is presently taking an important role in fashion although it has a short history compared to the general apparel industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.40-54
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• 2009

Many studies make us difficult for understanding the specific concept of NOW avant garde by misusing avant garde or by using the over wide-ranging concept. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of NOW avant garde fashion by analyzing its fashion and its paradigm characteristics, after considering modern avant garde fashion history. This study was used with bibliographic research as well as internet search of qualitative method for analyzing fashion show clothes since 2005 women's wear. The characteristics of NOW avant garde fashion are classified into plural deconstructivism, econonism that integrates the last avant garde factors with logical economics, and the aesthetic of Tech-Human. To conclude, the concept of NOW avant garde fashion is defined as the fashion expressing either the digital-hybrid images or the deconstructive images meaning elimination, unification or confinement, being pilled up one on another, bizarre connection, transposition, and distortion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 2001

Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look Presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyse the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.191-200
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• 2014

This study represents "an artialization of fashion" that may be regarded similar to art with a focus on luxury fashion brands. In the $20^{th}$ century, fashion began to share a similar language with art and became a central part in popularizing art. Fashion and art were drawn to each other in mutual fascination. Fashion studies arouse from disciplines like anthropology, sociology and art history as well as from aesthetic experiences and commercial characteristics. Fashion is very complicated phenomenon; therefore, a study on the artialization of luxury fashion brands needs to be approached for aesthetic and commercial aspects simultaneously. This study combines a literary survey with a case analysis of the relation of fashion and art as well as inquires on the artialization of luxury fashion brands based on discourses. The discourses are: first, fashion is an art, second, fashion and art differ in relation to the intention, third, fashion and art have mutual-borrowing. In view of the results achieved in this study, luxury fashion brands can achieve increased effectiveness through art. This study reveals the effects that luxury brands achieve through art versus a discussion on if fashion is art or not and if the relationship is moral or not.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.28-38
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• 2008

Balhae was an ancient Korean kingdom that existed almost 1,300 years ago. It was a dynamic time in the Korean history when the national strength was building up in terms of politics, economy and culture, thereby called as "Haedongseongguk, the powerhouse in the East". Balhae had dominated parts of Manchuria and the northern part of the Korean peninsula between the late 7th century and the 10th century, occupying the center stage of the northern Korean history. It serves as a window to the East Asia in the present as well as in the past. Yet, due to its geography spanning from the North Korea to Kilin Province of China to part of Heilongjiang Province and to the Littoral Province of Siberia, Balhae has been the center of historical disputes among neighboring countries that insist it is part of each of their own history. China argues that it was a prefecture of the Tang Dynasty, established by the Mohe, not a successor to Goguryeo, which is a China-oriented viewpoint of history. In addition, Russia recognizes Balhae as their first-ever medieval feudal state since the Littoral Province is now under their sovereignty. Therefore, the restoration of Balhae history is in line with the veritable establishment of the ancient Korean history. For this, it is necessary to embrace inter-disciplinary achievements and to continue efforts to adopt them rather than to blame the shortage of historical documents and the difficulty of the excavation of relics. If fashion is "a visual symbol" of our society, beauty culture serve as a mirror to reflect our civilization and culture directly or indirectly. Still, it is not easy to draw similarities by analyzing and comparing the attributes of various cultures and civilizations party because the essence of culture lies in diversity. Nevertheless, it is believed that cultural liaison as well as geographical liaison can be a medium to compensate for the limits of the foreign exchange history of Southeast Asia in proving the relationship between Goguryeo and Balhae, by examining and speculating beauty culture that reflect their period. It was confirmed by various documents regarding Goguryeo out of relics, historical sites and documents. Mural paintings showed how the people of Balhae wore and accessorized themselves. They also allowed us to speculate their way of living. As the contemporary historians can assert that Balhae is part of the Korean history thanks to the realism scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty, who rediscovered the Balhae history and conducted practical researches, it is expected that researchers who study beauty culture contribute to completing the restoration of the Balhae history by thoroughly examining our history, costume and beauty culture.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.29-40
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• 2008

This study clarified the classifications of Vietnamese traditional patterns and analyzed the symbolic meanings that reflect the emotional and cultural background of the Vietnamese. The type and symbolism of Vietnamese traditional patterns were analyzed through research on the history of Vietnamese costumes, the history of Vietnamese arts, the history of Vietnamese traditional culture, and a Vietnamese museum survey. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Animal patterns are diverse and include dragons, unicorns, tortoises, phoenixes, cranes, lions, bats, tigers, and buffalo patterns. 2. Dragon patterns are the most utilized pattern for practical purposes. They are often used in royal costumes, Vietnamese traditional dresses, mandarin boots, bamboo fans, silk, satin, ceramics, and other detailed decorations. 3. The patterns symbolized fortune that meant good luck and longevity so people can live long and happy. Then the symbolic meanings of patterns were followed by prosperity, nobleness, apotropism, prolificacy, and wealth. 4. Since the most of animal patterns have symbolic meanings of fortune and longevity, animal patterns can be utilized as the source of traditional patterns of design inspiration for the development of Vietnamese modern patterns and the application on Vietnamese fashion products.