• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.454-467
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• 2015

Reflecting the consumer's desire to look young, the "down-aging" trend, which blurs the distinctions between age groups, is the latest craze in the fashion market. The popularity of this trend made brand identities similar, resulting in customers becoming more interested in segmented notions of fashion (in terms of the story, design, high-quality material, etc.) regarding the product, and in particular, focus has become oriented to the fitness to the human body. In this sense, the researcher aimed to develop the prototype of a slim-fit tailored jacket that fits the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s well. For the purpose of this research, slim-fit tailored jackets from existing brands were collected and analyzed, and a subsequent wearability test was conducted based on the standard somatotype of women in their 30s. The research patterns were prototype of the developed slim fit tailored jacket are bust size of 3.8 cm, waist of 7 cm, and hip size of 3.8 cm. Then the research patterns were selected to develop the prototype of a properly fitting slim-fit tailored jacket. As outlined above, the development of a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype for the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s was conducted by solving the fitness issues of existing brands in order to produce properly fitting jackets that satisfy consumers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.191-199
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was designed to investigate the purchasing considerations given and wearing fit according to suit styles in male consumers in their 30s by conducting questionnarie research with 410 persons. The research intended to give menswear manufacturers the scientific data to improve consumers' satisfaction when menswear brands produce jackets. The summary and conclusions in this study are as follows: First, male consumers have moderate interest in fashion and recognize the impact of fashion on their professional lives. Also, male consumers were aware that recent menswear fashion trends are being changed to slim-fit. Second, by examining the suit inventory and the purchasing consideration according to the suit styles, male consumers in their 30s had between 2 to 4 suits, both in slim-fit and classic-fit, respectively. When consumers purchase a suit, the most important consideration factors are size and wearing fit in both slim-fit and classic-fit. The reason to purchase a slim fit suit is that it seems slim due to its fitted silhouettes, while in a classic-fit suit, it is required because of job nature. Third, the result indicates the circumferences causing the most uncomfortable were the shoulder, chest, the back, and upper arm. Also, they mentioned the chest and the abdominal section including the shoulder as the most uncomfortable circumference to the question on what to be improved in jacket. Therefore, the research suggests that the menswear manufacturer should consider different consumers' desires which require different criteria based on the suit styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2013

A study using compare and analyze about differences among three basic pants patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of comparison about total pants pattern shape, the ESMOD have two tucks of front and one dart of back and the Secoli and On&on have each dart of front and back. The results of estimation about total appearance, the On&on is the best of all pattern about total silhouette of front and back side and the ESMOD is the worst of all. In a case of the ESMOD, the thigh part has so many spaces between body and pants so it is rated low. When we examine about space between body and pants, amount of air gap of ESMOD is 0.6 at waist circumference and next is On&on(0.07). In case of hip circumference, the Secoli is 0.08 and the ESMOD is 0.14. The ESMOD's amount of air gap is 0.32 at thigh circumference and 0.62 at knee circumference. The Secoli's amount air gap is 0.26 at thigh circumference and 0.59 at knee circumference.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.41-56
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate the actual condition of wearing leggings and the preferred design of down-aging women in their 30s and 40s who have young sensibility, but are starting to enter a middle-aged body type. By analyzing the problems experienced when wearing leggings in this age group, this study intends to provide basic data for the development of a middle-aged female leggings pattern with an improved fit. Therefore, a survey was conducted on 214 women in their 30s and 40s. The results of the survey are as follows. Among down-aging women who want to look younger, leggings are becoming an essential item, but most leggings brands are producing leggings with patterns suitable for women in their 20s. The results of this study also showed that down-aging women in their 30s and 40s mainly purchase and prefer body-fitting leggings. However, they are experiencing discomfort due to 'Y-zone accentuate', 'undergarment accentuate', 'cloth stucking', and 'waist band curling and tightening'. The results indicate that women in their 30s and 40s, who are starting to change to a middle-aged body type, have fit problems. Women in their 20s generally prefer functions that improve the body line, while those in their 30s and 40s prefer functions that improve movement and cover problems caused by the abdomen and the Y-zone area. Therefore, when designing leggings for down-aging women in their 30s and 40s, based on body-fitting leggings, a material with excellent elasticity must be selected. Also develop patterns that solves 'Y-zone accentuate', 'undergarment accentuate', 'cloth stucking', and 'waist band curling and tightening' problems.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.463-474
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• 2007

With rapid expansion in e-retailing of apparel business, personalized fitting model service shows the possibility as the differentiated marketing strategy in cyber shopping. According as necessity of personalized fitting model construction rises, it is tried personalized fitting model creation in several fields such as computer engineering, mechanical engineering, information engineering. But, because existent study was concentrated only on human body modeling, it does not reflect average morphological characteristics of human body properly. In this study, we wish to examine if morphing is fit for expressing characteristic of average human body shape and suggest desirable morphing. We used 3-D scan data of 254 Korean middle aged men collected by Size Korea 2004. The result of this study are as follows: Lower body types were categorized by height hip girth and lower drop(hip girth-navel girth) which were main factors of lower body shape. Then each factor was divided into 3 groups respectively, 30% in the middle, over 30%, under 30%. In 27 groups, the group which belonged to 30% in the middle of height, 30% in the middle of hip girth, 30% in the middle of lower drop was selected as a representative group. We tested geometrical figure by differ volume, tilt, position of point. And we created a representative type of men's lower bodies by morphing the representative group and analyzed it's horizontal, vertical sections. A representative type which was created by morphing reflected a real body and changed realistically at the part of hip, crotch, calf muscle and so on. A cross sections of a representative type were similar to average cross sections of the representative group in size and shape. So it was proved that morphing was successful.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.722-734
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• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.67-82
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• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.126-143
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and design elements of the Qing dynasty costume style, and accordingly, develop a new fashion design work incorporating modern aesthetics by using the attribute listing technique. A creative idea that drew out various ideas by considering the properties and characteristics of the object in detail through applying the attribute listing technique, and a modern fashion design in the style of Qing dynasty were developed. In the design development process, first, the theme was set as 'Developing a modern fashion design using design elements of Qing dynasty costume'. Second, design elements and components focusing on design details of Qing dynasty costumes were organized. Third, design ideas that replaced or modified design elements for each type of Qing dynasty costume were presented, and the design was developed by combining and modifying these ideas. Fourth, nine designs were selected through a design evaluation process by a group of experts to select a design for the Qing dynasty costume style. Fifth, seven final designs were selected through revisions to compose a collection with unity and balance. Sixth, colour and material were decided for the selected design, and the work was completed through pattern making, sewing, and fitting process. These seven works were designed with motifs of the Qing dynasty's slit, liling, yuanling, hujian, matixiu, manxiu, shuangmanxiu, zhaixiu, pipajin, yourengquejin, yikouzhong, lingyi, yunjian, magua, mamianqun, xingshang, taoku, chaofu, xingfugua, and pao.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.55 no.5
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• pp.555-566
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• 2017

This study analyzes the practical tasks and required competency for technical designers to provide basic data on the training of domestic technical designers. The survey was applied to 21 technical designers of big vendors as well as investigated tasks, task flow, important tasks, time-consuming tasks, and required competencies. The results of the study are as follows. First, the technical designers were in charge of several brands of buyers and distributors of fashion companies, or several lines of the same brand. The main production items were cut and sewn knits. Second, the flow of task and tasks were in the order of buyer comments analysis, sloper decision to matching style, sewing specification, productive sewing method research, size specification suggestion, pattern correction comments, construction decision to matching style & fabric, sample evaluations, fit approval, business e-mail writing, specification & grading confirmation, and communication with buyer. Third, five tasks (analysis of buyer comments analysis, communication with buyer, pattern correction comments, productive sewing methods research, sample evaluation) were important and time-consuming tasks. Fourth, reeducation was required in order of sewing, pattern, English, fabric, and fitting. Fifth, competencies to be a technical designers were fitting, pattern correction, size specification & grading, construction & sewing specification, sewing terms & techniques, and communication skills. In conclusion, technical designer training should focus on technology-based instruction, such as sample evaluation, fitting, pattern correction, and productive sewing methods research of cut and sewn knits.