• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.545-558
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• 2021

This research analyzed the Chinese style design embodied in the collections of the new generation of fashion designers shown during the Shanghai Fashion Week to improve the understanding of Chinese style and the modernization of Chinese design. The research questions were 1) studying the development of the Chinese fashion industry chronologically and investing young designers' current situation, 2) investigating young designers' awareness of Chinese style and analyzing Chinese style design in collections. A literature and case study were conducted as the research method. The literature study focused on the books about the Chinese fashion industry and history, newspaper, articles, and so on. The case study was conducted among 63 Chinese style collections in 2016-2020 SFW by investigating fashion magazine reviews, articles, and so on. The findings are as follows: 1) Young Chinese fashion designers' awareness of Chinese style has three characteristics; the nonmaterial tendency from decreasing stereotyped images, combination of traditional culture and local youth culture, and commercialization with trends. 2) Chinese elements, including natural, character, and cultural elements were predominantly used in the concept, pattern, and shape. Nonmaterial characteristics were identified in concept, cultural combination characteristics in concept, shape, color, material, and pattern, and trend commercialization in shape, color, and pattern. In conclusion, Chinese young fashion designers had strong national consciousness and new awareness of Chinese style fashion in decreasing the stereotyped images of China. Thus, they used more varied expressions. Meanwhile, they faced difficulties in expressing nonmaterial Chinese elements by balancing them with Chinese style and globalization.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

Fashion leadership is divided into visual influence, linguistic influence, and dual leadership. We refer to people exercising such influential power as fashion innovators, fashion opinion leaders, and fashion double leaders, respectively. Scholars and marketers have raised continuous questions on this issue: who are these fashion leaders and what characteristics do they have? In this study, social network analysis is applied to grasp the existence of three types of fashion leaders in college clubs, examine their positions in fashion process networks and investigate their individual and social characteristics. For this study, three college clubs were recruited through convenience sampling and surveyed online. Peer nomination questions for structuring fashion process networks and self-evaluation questions for measuring personal characteristics are included. Two fashion networks, an opinion leadership network and an innovativeness network, embrace four to six leaders and illustrate similar structure patterns in the three groups, which indicates that dual leaders enjoyed the lion's share in college clubs. The number of fashion innovators tends to be fewer compared to that of fashion opinion leaders, and we infer that peer relationship appears to intervene with fashion opinion leadership. Other personal characteristics supporting results from previous studies are also confirmed in this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.491-505
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• 2019

This study analyzes global fashion clusters to provide insight for the domestic fashion market to form a competitive fashion cluster. We examine formation factors and operation types of the global fashion clusters to understand their characteristics. We also explore the effectiveness of each global fashion cluster by investigating the stage of development in fashion clusters. Fourteen cases of global fashion clusters are collected and analyzed. First, global fashion clusters show three types of formation and operation: self-formation, self-formation & government based development, and government, institute, and enterprise based formation & development. Second, the characteristics of global fashion clusters are based on functions related to space, learning, innovation, network, and knowledge. Third, there are four steps in the development stage of global fashion clusters: professional clusters, industrial clusters, learning clusters and innovative industrial clusters. In particular, innovative industrial clusters, the final stage of development, have high levels of effectiveness in terms of co-growth and collaboration among fashion-related businesses in fashion clusters. The results of this study can help guide the development of local fashion cluster in Korea.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.125-143
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• 2015

This study is to propose an 'education-training-certificate of qualification' design of fashion accessories production, which can be applied to education in universities and individuals. It is based on the National Competency Standards (NCS), which was developed through the '2013 National Competency Standards Development Project' for the fashion accessories production. FGI (Focus Group Interviews), which is a research methodology, is carried out on target groups of educational experts and specialists in the field of fashion accessories production. Through this, five courses were suggested; first, 'fashion accessories design' course was proposed for the education and training of 'design development' and 'development of raw materials'. Secondly, 'fashion product production' course was proposed for the education and training of 'production of samples'. Thirdly, 'fashion product manufacture and planning' course was proposed for the competency element units: 'calculation of cost', 'determination of mass production model and price', 'planning of the main manufacturing process' and 'ordering of raw materials'. Lastly, 'mass production of fashion products' course and the 'field practice of fashion product manufacture' course were proposed for the competency element units: 'planning for mass production', 'preparation for mass production', 'mass production' and 'inspection of completed products'. In addition, a new certificate of 'technician of fashion accessory production' was proposed in order to test qualified skills for the fashion accessories production. The test is composed of a written examination of short-answer questions, technical drawing and production.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.123-134
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• 2023

Fashion design, CAD production, and the use of digital software can shorten the time and production processes in the fashion industry, but there are still many limitations in how to similarly express textile textures. Having this awareness, how to implement the visual effects of textile texture similar to that of the real world in the virtual world is one of the major exploration tasks in the fashion industry. Therefore, this study aims to analyze examples of embroidery techniques in Christian Dior collections and explore how embroidery techniques in 3D CLO fashion design can express the texture of real clothes more similarly by creating virtual works through 3D samples and 3D CLO software. First, the analysis criteria and theoretical basis of this study were derived through a literature review on fashion textile embroidery techniques, identifying types and characteristics of embroidery techniques, and classifying them into 12 types. Second, photos of the Dior 2017-2023 SS/FW Ready-to-Wear collections were collected and analyzed through the case analysis VOGUE site. Third, it presents the production of 3D CLO works by deriving a method of implementing embroidery techniques through the design of sample textile embroidery techniques using substances 3D sample software. The study's has some limitations. First, in 3D CLO fashion design, the needle gap for embroidery must be widened to see the thread pattern. Second, by reducing the number of needles, it is necessary to imitate the actual embroidery effect. Third, it is judged that it will be effective to lengthen the thread and adjust the thickness of the thread. Fourth, the thickness of the entire embroidery pattern must be increased to enable a three-dimensional texture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.16-32
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• 2022

In the intensely competitive global fashion market, the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly widespread. However, there is a lack of research on challenges and opportunities associated with integrating cultural elements of Minhwa into fashion design. Moreover, diverse approaches to incorporate Korean cultural elements into contemporary fashion designs are still needed. This study aims to reveal the real-world challenges relating to the incorporation of Korean cultural elements, including Minhwa, into fashion design and to clarify the possibility of applying Lin's cultural levels to cultural aspects in accordance with experts' views. To establish a theoretical foundation, the literature review on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted. It analyzes Minhwa to gain an understanding of the characteristics associated with different cultural levels. In-depth interviews with fashion industry professionals and Minhwa artists were conducted to ascertain their attitudes toward Minhwa use. The study's major findings were threefold. First, the cultural design facilitates the introduction, promotion, understanding, and maintenance of the culture. Since Minhwa offers rich inspiration linked to Korean culture, Minhwa-related designs can provide new perspectives while still having commercial potential. Second, however, the limitations of existing cultural designs included their being outdated, superficial without interpretation, unsophisticated, or limited. Furthermore, the use of Minhwa is limited since it is difficult to avoid creating superficial and unsophisticated designs in the real world. Third, approaching Minhwa at different cultural levels can promote diverse thinking and reduce the challenges of Minhwa use in design, but the major challenge remains visual expression.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.898-905
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• 2012

This paper develops fashion products that express the beauty of Baekje through an investigation of the unique characteristics of Baekje artifacts. This work can promote the Baekje region and provide cultural goods for local festivals to improve the economic competitiveness of the area. Artifacts from the Muryongwangreung in Gongju (the capital city of Baekje during the Woongjin period)were reinterpreted into a more modern form. Among the Muryongwangreung artifacts, the king and queen's gold coffin as well as chignon ornaments were used as design motifs. These artifacts were stylized into motifs and developed into patterns using Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. The patterns were subsequently applied to the designs of scarves and ties. The color was selected using the CMYK colorway from the Gongju city logo subsequently, a total of 12 designs (including 6 ties and 6 scarves) were developed. The design developed from this research can be applied to diverse products to promote the area. Using the research as a foundation, fashion product development based on the local culture can have a significant impact on the establishment of the Baekje cultural identity and the competitiveness of the region.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.125-143
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• 2013

This study aims to clarify the identity of contemporary Chinese fashion design by examining how the characteristics of Chinese tradition are accepted and presented in fashion under the influences of western cultures. This study performed a literature survey on related works. Also this study performed demonstrative analysis of Chinese daily newspapers (People's Daily and Xinmin Evening News, 2007-2010) and fashion collections by Chinese and Chinese descent designers(2007-2011). The results are as follows: First, China is trying to express Chinese traditional ideas and factors in the design areas, and also trying to achieve an universal generalization. Second, the Chinese designers emphasized traditional ideas and culture in their designs. The Chinese descent designers were affected more by western culture. The common aesthetic consciousness were the beauties of sophisticated and splendorous decoration, vastness and elegance. Also the compromised images, neutral images and antique images were common in both groups. Third, the Chinese designers presented fashion designs on formalized and imitation stage. Also they tried to make a metaphorical stage. The Chinese descent designers showed designs on a metaphorical stage. In conclusion, the contemporary Chinese fashion design should find the way to globalize and identity of the traditional culture code simultaneously.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.156-160
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• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.19-30
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to analyze the stage of image change in Korean fashion design in regards to the simulacre of Jean Baudrillard. The changing phases of Korean fashion design are as follows: First, the initial stage involved simple imitation, which replicated the original as much as possible, it expressed the basic composition of Hanbok, flat cut and rich silhouette, the color scheme of traditional colors, traditional patterns, materials, and traditional ornaments. In the second stage, the subject matter intervened to distort and transform from the original, the basic composition and structure of the Hanbok were barely maintained, they were either removed or part of the structure modified or expressed using modern materials and patterns. The third stage, were based on reality but differed from reality through subject and imagination, and only left a part of the basic composition of Hanbok, and were expressed through the partial modification of the elements of the Hanbok, for instance the silhouette, skirt waist, collar and breast-tie. The fourth stage of pure simulacre, which refers to a new image with complete independence regardless of the reality. This stage differed from the basic structure and composition of Hanbok, and showcased traditional Korean image of Korea's unique cultural elements, such as hanbok or crafts and artworks, in a modern fashion with a modern sense and practicality.