• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2009

This research covers the ways in which typography, which has been expressed in a diverse range of fields and changed communication functions from the era of reading to the era of feeling according to the change in the times and social demands, has been represented in modem fashion, along with examining its inherent aesthetic characteristics. I reviewed the general information of typography's fundamental notions and functions through documented records, and analyzed the inherent aesthetic characteristics by examining the typographical patterns shown in modem fashion based on art works in domestic and international collections after 2000. The result of this research is that typography in modem fashion has been used for improving brand image, expressing social slogans, expressing images, linguistic function for playful expression and the interdependent relationships of modeling functions. Typography in modem fashion has always been diversely expressed harmoniously with linguistic and modeling functions. Through this, the aesthetic characteristics were firstly parodies through direct sentences addressing political and social ideologies, economic gaps, environmental issues and anti-war protests. Secondly, by using brand logos, typography was used as a commercial means like brand-image transfer and separation through customization of other brands. Thirdly, the aesthetic and artistic value of fashion were expressed after being used as experimental visual components like image, motive and patterns which are all elements of fashion design. Fourthly, by distortion and transformation of characters or childish decorations, along with the harmonization of words, cathartic humor was provided for the calloused senses of modern people.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2004

This Study has examined characteristics of the popular culture of the contemporary fashion show by each element as follows The fashion show place expanded its area when It moved its center because of not only the use of ordinary and public friendly place but also adjacent places post-modernism thought. The installation stage was produced by organic combination with the stage using object: The technology for the stage has produced dynamic variability and variety enough to expand the stage. The dramatic element of production technique was introduced to the fashion show to shorten gap with ordinary life and transfer a theme by facial expressions, gesture and pose. etc of a model In addition. its performance element combines other genre freely to be one time and viewers' participating type technique. At the minimalism element, clothing functions moderately as main factor of the fashion show: Technical elements are added to emphasize future Images. At sound tracks and sound effects, the show's overall atmosphere has been revived to remake various genre of music and improve images. At the fashion model, objective appearance boundary is collapsed to expand model concept and make tools of their own. The fashion show has external values of active movement of associated industry as well as economic boost enough to produce jobs, and internal values to provide aesthetic rest and satisfactions to let the ones. who are isolated from recreation values and the society, establish friendly relations with the society

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.686-693
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• 2022

The rapid development of the fashion industry in contemporary society has also caused various problems such as environmental pollution, material excess, and spiritual poverty. Accordingly, traditional Chinese Taoist aesthetics can solve the spiritual poverty that people are facing today, and the spiritual pursuit of returning to innocence. This study focuses on the works of first generation Chinese designer Ma Ke as an example to discuss the embodiment and application of Taoist aesthetics. The results are as follows: First, Ma Ke's works emphasize the value of handicraft through traditional handcrafting and natural fibers, which reflect the beauty of simplicity and the non-action of Taoist aesthetics. Second, the works acknowledge nature by using natural materials and retaining their original appearance, which embodies Taoist aesthetics of the beauty in non-action and living in harmony with nature. Third, the collections reflect a critical attitude toward the fashion industry and consumer culture by rethinking consumerism and advocating environmental protection, thus propagating the beauty in simplicity and the harmonious life with nature in Taoism aesthetics. In conclusion, Ma Ke's designs incorporating sustainability and handicraft exhibit the core features of Taoist aesthetics, including the beauty in simplicity, non-action, and living in harmony with nature while exploring the relationship between modernity and tradition, man and nature, and handicraft and fashion. This research can contribute to understanding Ma Ke's works in promoting critical thinking about the fashion industry through Taoist aesthetics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.347-362
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• 2012

The analysis results of the characteristics of children's clothes for school girls from the 2006S/S-2010S/S collections reveal that the most frequent type of item composition was 2'PS & 3'PS. T-shirts were the popular kind of item for upper garments and pants for lower garments. The major silhouettes were H and A line. The predominant neckline was U, which was followed by camisole and V. The major collar styles were stand-up and flat. Chromatic colors were used more than achromatic ones and after white the most popular colors were blue, pink, red, black, navy, and green. The dominant color scheme was a two-color or three-color scheme. The percentage of solid and patterned material garments was the highest and the most popular pattern was flowers. The most popular style of garment had no decorative detail that was followed by one-item, two-item, and three-item decoration. The major kinds of decorative detail were frills, pleats, and prints.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.113-131
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• 2014

This study aims to examine the background to the rise of Rei Kawakubo, a Japanese designer who achieved fame by suggesting the concept of deconstruction and recombination of clothes, and to look at environment of the time, the formative characteristics of her design and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in her design. As the method of research, collections that Kawakubo unveiled over the past 10 years starting in 2004 were examined, and a survey of the literature was conducted to describe the background of her growth and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in the design. According to the study, Kawakubo grew up in the ruins of a war, and went through a time of great tumult, when Western culture was mixing with Japan's traditional culture. She taught herself a method of creation involving the deconstruction of clothes, and their recombination. For this reason, her design from the beginning was inevitably focused on deconstructing clothes before they could be recombined. Through analyses of her collections, it was found that the formative characteristics of her design were characterized by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity. Kawakubo created clothes under the influence of an ethnicity that was shrouded in individuality and a traditional aesthetic sense, and the formative characteristics of her design defined by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity were closely related to the hybridity represented by Wabi (わび), Yugen (幽玄), Okashi (をかし) and Zakyo (雜居).

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권10호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• 복식
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• 제65권3호
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• pp.47-61
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• 2015

Dress functions as a clear boundary between gender differences In the past. However dress in the 21st century, due to movement of feminism during the 1960's, advance of mass media and the influence of postmodernism, the boundary of gender differences has been blurred. Especially in men's fashion, where there was no little changes in traditional menswear, it is noteworthy that there appears some changes. The research about gender has developed to queer theory, subjected on gender itself, founded on the gender diversity. The purpose of the study is to conduct the implied meanings of dress in contemporary society, when gender diversity has been expressed in men's fashion, and to review the characteristics of contemporary men's fashion through the collections and advertisements of post 2000's as well as internet sites. This research is based on theory of Judith Butler, which is on the center of feminism and queer theory. Homosexual expressions which are presented in male clothing and advertisement produce rejection of the dichotomous view of gender concept and allowing of individual gender identity expression.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.400-411
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• 2012

This study analyzes the formative changes and trends of cape design in modern fashion. In this study, a total of 496 cape designs were collected through the four major fashion collections of Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2010F/W, and a literature overview on capes was performed. The results of this study show that the cases with collars and hoods attached outnumbered the non-collared designs. In addition, the cases of lengthy cape in the hip or knee line represent more portions in designs. As to the material, it indicated that generic cloth was used the most. In most cases, decorations with various details and trimmings were also used. For expression characteristics, cases only with unique texture to cloth material and formative beauty were the most remarkable without decoration. For the formative feature, the independent item style was found the most, even though it was worn together with other kinds of clothing. Integration with other types also appeared such as cape jacket, cape dress, cape one-piece, or cape coat. Cape design features in contemporary fashion and could be characterized as feministic elegancy, harmony of practical value and fashion, authoritativeness, and decorativeness from the design trend analysis.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.