Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.2.113

A Study on the Japanese Aesthetic in the Rei Kawakubo's Design  

Kim, Yonson (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Sookmyung Women's University)
Publication Information
Journal of Fashion Business / v.18, no.2, 2014 , pp. 113-131 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study aims to examine the background to the rise of Rei Kawakubo, a Japanese designer who achieved fame by suggesting the concept of deconstruction and recombination of clothes, and to look at environment of the time, the formative characteristics of her design and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in her design. As the method of research, collections that Kawakubo unveiled over the past 10 years starting in 2004 were examined, and a survey of the literature was conducted to describe the background of her growth and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in the design. According to the study, Kawakubo grew up in the ruins of a war, and went through a time of great tumult, when Western culture was mixing with Japan's traditional culture. She taught herself a method of creation involving the deconstruction of clothes, and their recombination. For this reason, her design from the beginning was inevitably focused on deconstructing clothes before they could be recombined. Through analyses of her collections, it was found that the formative characteristics of her design were characterized by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity. Kawakubo created clothes under the influence of an ethnicity that was shrouded in individuality and a traditional aesthetic sense, and the formative characteristics of her design defined by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity were closely related to the hybridity represented by Wabi (わび), Yugen (幽玄), Okashi (をかし) and Zakyo (雜居).
Keywords
asymmetry; Comme des Garcons; hybrid culture; Japanese aesthetic; Rei Kawakubo;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Steele, V. (1991). Women of fashion:20th-century designers. New York: RizzzoliInternational Publication.
2 Rodhes, Z. (1977). Jersey dress with torn rawedges, safety pins and chains,. StarsweareRetrieved January 30, 2014 fromhttp://starsweare.com
3 Shimizu, S. NHK. (2005). アンリミテッド:コム デギャルソン [Unlimited: Comme des Garcons].Tokyo: Heibonsha.
4 Shin, E. (1996). '흥'과 오카시(をかし)의 美學[Aesthetic of 'Hung(Fun)' and Okashi]. 古典文學硏究 11. pp. 129-159.
5 Wabi. (n.d.). Retrieved January 05, 2014 fromhttp://ko.wikipedia.org
6 Westwood, V. (1977). Sex Pistols's T-Shirt byVivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLarenRetrieved January 30, 2014 fromhttp://espacio-blanco.com/2012/04/06-anos-de-diseno-ingles-en-el-va/
7 Maruyama, M. (1998). 일본의 사상 [The idea of Japan]. (S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilsa. (Original work published 1961).
8 Kim, Y. (2012). A Study on the formation of a style: Focusing on the style of Iris Van Herpen. Journal of Fashion Business. 16(2), 124-137.   과학기술학회마을   DOI
9 Kitazawa, M. (2011). 일본 사상의 감성전통 [The tradition of sensibility of Japanese thought]. (Y. Kim, H. Kim, A. Jo, & G. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Minsokwon. (Original work published 2002).
10 Lee, J. (2011, February 19). Kawakubo Rei Interview, Weekly BIZ. Retrieved from http://biz.chosun.com
11 Matsuoka, S. (2008). 만들어진 나라 일본. [Nihon to iu houhou]. (E. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Phronesis. (Original work published 2006).
12 Buxbaum, G. (2005). Icons of fashion the 20th century (2nd ed.). London: Prestel
13 Cho, Y. (2008). 일본지식채널 [The Japanese knowledge channel]. Seoul: Yedam.
14 Minamitani, E. (2004). スタディ.オブ. コム デ ギャルソン [The study of Comme des Garcons]. Tokyo: Littlemore.
15 Nagao, T. (2002). 일본 사상 이야기 [Forty stories on Japanese thought]. Seoul: Yemoon. (Original work published 2000).
16 Nakamura, S., Yufu, A. (1999). 角川古語大辭典 弟 5卷 [Kadokawa dictionary of archaic words Vol.5]. Tokyo: Kadokawa Shoden. p. 1059.
17 Nisiitan, M. (2012). 相対性 ゴムデギャルソン論 [Argument of Comme des Garcons's relativity]. Tokyo: Filmart.
18 Rei Kawakubo. Retrieved December 13, 2013 from http://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/
19 Rei Kawakubo by Cathy Horyn(NY Times). (2012). Retrieved January 24, 2014 from http://ja.wikipedia.org
20 Remaury, B. (1996). Dictionnaire de la Mode au XX sciele [The dictionary of the fashion in 20th century]
21 Clancy, J. (1974). Native funk & flash. Retrieved January 30, 2014 from http://sweetjanespopboutique.blogspot.kr/2013_ 06_01_archive.html
22 Rodhes, Z. (1977). Punk wedding dress. Paris: Edition de Regard.
23 Choi, C. (2006). 20세기 문화지형도 [Topography of 20th century culture]. Seoul: Ahn graphics ltd.
24 Choi, G. (2007). 우리가 모르는 일본인 [What we do not know about Japanese]. Seoul: Kupress.
25 Elgort, C. Kurigami, K., Lindbergh, p., Moon, s., Sawatari, H., Weber, B. (1982). Comme des Garcons 1975-1982 寫眞集 [Photograph collection]. Natsume-books Retrieved January 25, 2014 from http://www.natsume-books.com
26 Derrida, J. (1996). 해체. La dissemination [The dissemination]. (B. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye. (Original work published 1972).
27 Esoope Publishing (2013). 내가 사랑한 세상의 모 든 음식 [The food that I love from around the world]. Seoul: Esoope.
28 Fukai A. (2012). Future beauty 日本ファッションの未性 [Future Beauty: 30 years of Japanese fashion]. Tokyo: Heibonsha,
29 Gong, Ryu, Park, D., Park, J., Sung, Lee, B., Lee, W.,.. Choi (2002). 새로운 일본의 이해 [A New understanding of Japan]. Seoul: Darakwon.
30 Hirano, K(2004). 국제문화론 [The theory of international culture] (I. Jang, & D. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Pulbit. (Original work published 2000).
31 Kim, C. (2007). 일본 고전문학의 배경과 흐름 [The stream and background of ancient Japanese literature]. Seoul: Kupress.
32 Kim, M. (2013). 복식미학 [Aesthetics in dress]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
33 Yoon, Park, J., Whang, Lee, G., Shim, Kim, S., ... Kim, J. (2000). 일본을 강하게 만든 문화코드 [The culture code that makes Japan strong]. Seouil: Namuwasup.
34 Kim, Y., & Gaang, B. (2009). Traditional aesthetic sense found in design universe of Issey Miyake: Focus on beauty of "Yugen". Journal of Fashion Business. 10(2). 97-108.