Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.23
no.5
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pp.694-702
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1999
By using commercial available electromagnetic interference (EMI) shielding fabrics, EMI shielding effectiveness(SE) and the physical properties were investigated. Thirteen specimens were chosen six fabrics were non-electrolytic plated with Cu, six plated with Cu+Ni and one plated with Ni, SE was measured by RF Impedance Analyzer HP4291A(Hewlett Co, Ltd)at the frequency of 100MHz-1.8GHz. The results showed that the commercial EMI shielding fabrics provided SE values over 30dB at the frequency of 100MHz-1.8GHz. Fabrics plated with Cu showed more effective shielding than those plated with Ni. The thickness of coating and fabric count were also influential factors on SE. Tensile properties were acceptable for lining fabrics but water vapor transport properties indicated that the better treatment condition were suggested to improve comfort properties.
International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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v.43
no.1
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pp.16-21
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2021
The silkworm cocoon has recently attracted the attention of researchers because of its usefulness as a biomedical material (e.g., usage in the development of the membrane for guided bone regeneration and usage as a starting material for the fabrication of natural silk nonwoven fabric). The silkworm variety and strain have been reported as one of the important factors affecting the structure and properties of silk materials. This study examines the morphology and the molecular conformation of the silkworm cocoon at different cocoon measurement points, as well as the effect of the silkworm strain and rearing season on the morphology and crystallinity of the silkworm cocoon. The results show that the morphology of the outside of the cocoon does not differ depending on the cocoon measurement points, but that of the inside does. The silkworm cocoon crystallinity is not affected by the cocoon division. Interestingly, the crystallinity of the outside of the Jam101 cocoon differs depending on the rearing season, whereas it does not in other silkworm strains.
This study identifies consumer needs and a pattern sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for raincoats using quick-drying-absorbing polyester. We investigate the consumer's consciousness and raincoat improvements. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed for use in this study. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 152 university students using a 7-point scale of 26 consumer needs and 31 pattern image sensory descriptors. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major results were: There was a need for consumers to improve the front fastener type, cuff fastener, mesh patch position, and raincoat pocket position. The most important parameter to choose raincoat fabric was waterproof and the other parameters were vapor-porous/water repellent, design, color, fashionability, air-permeability and easy-put on/off. The pattern image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by seven factors: gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic, ethnic, feminine, and cool. A higher pattern preference was found in the jacquard fabrics of unique, sporty, natural, luxurious, and trendy images. The pattern preference was predicted at 45.3% with gorgeous, simple, pure, cute, futuristic factors. The correlation coefficient between the pattern image sensibility factor 1 (gorgeous) and pattern preference was 0.674 and with factor 3 (cute) was 0.416, and with factor 6 (cool) was 0.209. The 4 factors (gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic) were selected as a significant pattern image sensibility that influenced preference.
According to critics and architects, non-linear structure is not only an organic form of space, but also a form of space detached from modem style. Accordingly, non-linear structure can be accepted as an alternative to what has remained unsolved by deconstructionist. However, they are criticized for not clarifying the interdependent relationship between non-linearity of space and cognitive structure of human being. They ended up remaining the hypothesis just an intuitive and abstract one. This research began on the basis that their hypothesis is hard to be objectified, and it needs further inquiry. The purpose of this thesis is to explore how the redundant factors constitute non-linear structures of digital media centered space design. Geometric compositions of space structure were analyzed to define what types of redundant factors are contrived in the process of visual information. This study about the visual form, researching the Information Theory, and then offer a quantitative analysis that makes those more objective. Space structure and geometric composition were analyzed to define what types of redundancy are contrived in the process of visual information. In particular, I put higher theoretical emphasis on what characteristics are ensued in the process of structuring spaces than any other subjects. Followings are the conclusion of analysis. First, as a result of examining, we can assume that NOX' space structure is not a chaotic form, but has an operating the form of its own. Second, in case of curvilinear, the structure was found redundancy on mid deviation ratio and discontinuous circular fabric. Although most of their structures appeared complex with a higher coherent constant, they were found to be stable factors because of the low deviation ratio between systems. The amount of surplus information was stable structure as well.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.6
no.2
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pp.49-55
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1982
The purpose of this study was to analyze the factorial structure of the criteria on clothing selection. Data were obtained from 219 housewives in Seoul. 95 likert type questions were selected from the existing questionnaires and from the open end questions. The items were analyzed for discriminating power, followed by the factor analysis. 57 items were subjected to the principal component analysis with orthogonal rotation after extraction of 5 major factors. 47 items were found to be significantly loaded to at least one of the five factors. The factors had the following characteristics: Factor I. The persons scoring high on this factor would invest time and energy in their clothes to achieve their image and individuality. They were interested in clothes, appearance and fashion. Factor II. The persons scoring high on this factor were more concerned about the practicality of clothing, such as ease-of-care, comfort, texture and quality of fabric. They would not select the clothes which soiled easily and would not perform as expected. Factor III. High scores on this factor were associated with the eagerness to get the cloth-ing value for the money. They would make a long plan to buy an expensive clothing and choose a unique clothing regardless of fashion. Factor IV. A high score on this factor was suggestive of modesty. They were willing to buy inconspicuous clothes, such as dark or muted colors, small prints and conservative styles. Factor V. High scores on this factor were characterized by the desire for conformity and approval of their friends. This result may be used to develop an instrument to measure the criteria on clothing selection of consumer.
Yifan Yang;Dirk A. de Lange;Huan Wang;Amin Askarinejad
Geomechanics and Engineering
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v.37
no.5
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pp.431-441
/
2024
A newly developed line-style sand pluviator has been calibrated to prepare repeatable sand specimens of specific statuses of compactness and homogeneity for laboratory tests. Sand is falling via a bottom slot of a fixed hopper, and by moving the sample container under the slot, the container is evenly filled with sand. The pluviator is designed with high flexibility: The falling height of sand, the hopper's opening width and the relative moving speed between the hopper and the sample box can be easily adjusted. By changing these control factors, sand specimens of a wide range of densities can be prepared. A series of specimen preparation was performed using the coarse Merwede River sand. Performance of the pluviator was systematically evaluated by exploring the alteration of achievable density, as well as checking the homogeneity and fabric of the prepared samples by CT scanning. It was found that the density of prepared coarse sand samples has monotonic correlations with none of the three control factors. Furthermore, CT scanning results suggested that the prepared samples exhibited excellent homogeneity in the horizontal direction but periodical alteration of density in the vertical direction. Based on these calibration test results, a preliminary hypothesis is proposed to describe the general working principles of this type of pluviators a priori, illustrating the mechanisms dominating the non-monotonic correlations between control factors and the relative density as well as the vertically prevalent heterogeneity of specimens. Accordingly, practical recommendations are made in a unified framework in order to lessen the load of similar calibration work.
This study was carried out in order to investigate the colorimetric values, the color sensation and sensibility for naturally dyed fabrics with microbial prodiginine colorant and to find out the relationship among color sensation, color sensibility factors and colorimetric properties of them. Color sensation and sensibility of four different fabric stimuli coloring red purple by a microbial prodiginine colorant produced from Zooshikella sp. were subjectively evaluated by university students. The color sensibility for the naturally dyed fabrics was classified into four factors: 'pleasantness', 'gracefulness', 'characteristic' and 'relax'. Color sensibility factor 'pleasantness' was the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics with microbial prodiginine colorant. All color sensibility factors showed a significant correlations with the color sensation and colorimetric properties of the dyed fabrics with prodiginine. There were showed significant relationships between the color sensibility factors and lightness $L^{\ast}$, color saturation $C^{\ast}$, $a^{\ast}$ and $b^{\ast}$. Also, color preference of the dyed fabrics with prodiginine was found to be influenced mainly by color sensibility factors.
Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.
This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.
The purpose of this study is to review the symbolic meaning in 20th century men’s fashion through analyzing of social environment factors. After recent industrial society, men had expressed their privilege, prestige and social power according to fashion. Men's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century was emerged as the images of robustness and strictness with perfect cutting, thick and stick fabric and dark color that were influenced by british style. It was symbolic meaning of authority orientation which showed the superiorities of social and sex classes. It was beginning of change according to social phenomena. The world war Ⅰ,Ⅱ and change of lifestyle by material affluence in automobile industry mollified rules of men's fashion. It showed a serenity of living. Also, the growth of young culture changed trickle-down of men's fashion into bottom-up and showed opposition for elite culture in fashion. These change particularly became acceleration by Individualism, open-society and the collapse of sex class. Men expressed sexual and inherent desire for fashion that was no longer concerned with symbolizing of authority but rather with pleasure pursuit.
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