• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.391-402
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• 2010

전기방사한 나노섬유 웹은 가는 섬유직경과 수많은 미세공극 구조로 인해 우수한 투습성 및 차단 성능을 나타내며, 초박막 초경량의 특성을 갖는다. 이러한 특성 때문에 새로운 투습방수 소재로서 전기방사한 나노섬유 웹을 이용하고자 하는 시도가 이루어지고 있으며, 본 연구에서는 나노섬유 웹 처리소재의 역학적 특성을 측정하고 이를 기존 투습방수 소재와 비교함으로써 기능적 성능과 더불어 감성적 성능을 만족시키는 새로운 투습방수 소재 개발을 위한 기초자료를 제시하고자 하였다. 실험실 제작(lab-scale) 나노섬유 웹과 대량생산(commercial) 나노섬유 웹을 이용하여 웹 밀도와 기반 직물, 적층 구조, 라미네이팅 여부 등에 차이를 두어 다양한 전기방사 나노섬유 웹 처리소재를 제작하였다. 이들 시료에 대해 KES-FB system을 이용하여 역학적 특성을 평가하고, 이를 기존 투습방수 소재인 고밀도 직물, PTFE 라미네이팅 직물, PU 코팅 직물의 역학적 특성치와 비교하였다. 연구 결과, 실험실에서 제작한 나노섬유 웹 처리소재는 부피감이 있으면서 유연하였고, 대량생산된 나노섬유 웹을 라미네이팅한 소재는 신장 변형이 적은, 치밀한 구조의 소재인 것으로 나타났다. 또한 고밀도 직물과 실험실 제작 나노섬유 웹 처리소재는 낮은 인장선형성과 굽힘강성, 전단강성으로 유사한 거동을 나타내어, 기존 PU 코팅이나 PTFE 라미네이팅 직물에 비해 뻣뻣함이 덜하면서 유연하고 부드러운 태를 가지는 것으로 해석되었다. 따라서 전기방사 나노섬유 웹 처리소재가 일정 수준의 방수성을 확보한다면 기능적 성능과 감성적 성능을 모두 충족시키는 새로운 투습방수 소재로 이용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.609-619
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• 1996

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) has been used as a mainstream fiber to make silklike fiber. The silky characteristics such as softness, dry touch feeling and flexibility can be obtained by weight reduction treatment. In aqueous alkali solution, the surface of PET is dissolved away and reduced in weight. The PET fiber, yarn and fabric become thinner and the gaps between fibers are wider. Its mobility is greatly improved without change of basic structures of the treated PET fibrics. The alkali treatment was conducted under the various experimental conditions such as alkali (NaOH) concentration, treatment time and temperature. As the weight loss increased, drapability improved and tensile strength remarkably reduced. When the PET fabrics lost 30% in their weight, drape coefficient lowered as much as 30oA and tensile stregth lowered as much as 50%. The weight loss over 30% brings great improvement in drapability and dyeability and significant decline in durability. By the alkali treatment, absorbency in spectrophotometer of dyed PET can be increased as much as 82% due to the increase of the surface area and formation of microvoids on the surface.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.113-118
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• 1998

Clothing shape is principally described in seven factors that are composed of clothing design, clothing material, clothing size, pattern design, sewing method and body motion etc.. The aims of this study was to measurement out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with somato type by using the image processing. The subjects for direct anthropometric measurements were 248 female college students aged from 19 to 22. The data were statistically analyzed by principal analysis and cluster analysis. The results were obtained three somato type. Also I made skirts in order to analyzed to the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body. The effect of somato type on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body. The out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body was observed between the node number and amplitudes of clothing wave form and node number was determined at the maxim of space-shape amplitude, and the space-shape amplitudes have related with aspect ratio of cross-sectional shape. Results for flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somato type. therefore gray-level histogram are correlated with changes out-line space-shape, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somato type. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(2):113∼110 1998)

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

미혼여성과 기혼여성을 대상으로 인체계측을 실시하여 직접 계측치와 지수치를 이용하여 주축요인분석을 한 결과 도출된 인자를 독립변수로 군집분석을 한 하반신 체형변인과 직물에 의한 플레어 스커트의 외관형상을 분석하기 위하여 영상처리를 이용하여 착용실험을 한 결괴는 다음과 같다. 1. 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단면형상 분석 결과 체형변인에 의한 플레어 스커트의 드레이프 면적과 드레이프 계수는 드레이프의 면적이 크면 드레이프 계수도 큰 값을 나타내었다. 직물의 노드수는 드레이프성이 좋을수록 많이 형성되고 노드수가 많으면 노드지수 값은 작은 값을 가진다. 노드지수 값이 크면 노드의 고저가 균일하게 나타나고 작으면 노드의 고저가 불균일하게 나타난다. 또한 인체 측정치수의 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레의 차이, 허리너비와 엉덩이너비의 차이 값이 큰 마름모형 체형변인에서 노드수는 많이 나타나고 노드지수 값은 작게 나타났다. 통형에 가까운 체형변인은 노드지수가 큰 값을 나타내므로 노드의 고저가 균일하게 나타났다. 직물의 노드수가 많으면 노드산 평균은 낮고, 노드지수 값이 큰 반면 노드수가 작으면 노드산펑균이 높으므로 노드산과 곡의 고저가 심하게 나타났다. 그러므로 직물의 드레이프성이 우수하다 할지라도 적정의 중량을 가지지 않으면 노드가 불균일하게 형성되어 의복 외관의 좋은 외관형상을 형성하지 못하는 결점이 나타나는 것으로 해석되었다. 2. 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단면의 최대횡경은 인체측정값의 너비항목과 최대종경은 두께항목과 관련성이 높은 것으로 나타났다. 단면비의 값이 크면 최대횡경의 값이 크고 최대종경의 값이 작은 타원형에 가까운 단면형상이 나타나고, 단면비의 값이 작으면 최대횡경 값이 작고 최대총경 값이 큰 원형에 가까운 단변형상으로 나타났다. 3. 플레어 스커트의 외관형상 분석 결과 정면처짐분은 둘레항목, 너비항목 시아항목의 차이 값이 작을수록, 직물의 드레이프성이 좋을수록 크게 나타났다. 미혼여성과 기혼여성을 비교해 보면 기혼여성의 체형이 너비, 둘레항목사이의 치어 값이 적기 때문에 처짐분이 크게 나타났다. 측면처짐분은 인체측정값의 두께항목과 상관이 깊어 앞부분은 배두께가 클수록, 뒷부분은 엉덩이두께가 클수록 처짐분량이 크게 나타났다. 후면처짐분은 정면과 같이 S시료에서 드레이프성이 좋을수록 처짐분이 크고, 엉덩이너비는 크고, 엉덩이두께가 작올수록 처짐분이 크게 나타났다. 4. 플레어 스커트의 3차원 입체형상은 외관형상의 굴곡이 낮아 평평할 수록 이미지의 평균값은 높고 편차는 낮게 나타났다. 체형변인에 의한 플레어 스커트의 주름 형상을 정면, 측면, 후면에서 이미지 값 분포로 비교해 보면 정면, 후면보다 측면의 외관이 평활하여 이미지 분포폭이 좁게 나타나고 최빈값을 중심으로 회색에 가까운 쪽으로 치우쳐 있는 것을 불 수 있다. 5. 체형변인에 따른 플레어 스커트의 주름특성을 평가하기 위하여 영상처리법으로 얻은 결과를 3차원 업체형상으로 분석하기 위하여 6개의 영역을 측정한 결과 플레어 스커트는 체형유형에 따라 곡면을 형성하는 주름의 수와 주름강도가 다르게 나타나 위 아랫부분의 주름폭은 차이가 있었다. 위부분에서 아랫부분으로 내려올수록 주름높이 폭은 커졌다. 그러므로 주름의 높이와 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단연형상의 노드각도와 밀접한 관련이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 즉, 주름의 높이가 높으면 노드 각도는 작은 값을 보이고, 주름의 높이가 낮으면 노드각도는 큰 값을 나타내었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.