• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.391-402
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• 2010

In this study, breathable waterproof materials were prepared by electrospinning. Five kinds of electrospun nanofiber web layered systems with different levels of nanofiber web density, as well as different substrates and layer structures were fabricated, and their mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface, and thickness & weight) were measured by the KES-FB system and compared with those of conventional breathable waterproof fabrics (densely woven fabric, PTFE laminated fabric and PU coated fabric). The KES-FB measurements demonstrate that the lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems are more flexible and fuller than commercial nanofiber web layered systems, which have a more compact structure than the lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems. Densely woven fabrics and lab-scale nanofiber web layered systems showed lower values of tensile linearity (LT), bending stiffness (B), and shear stiffness (G) than those of PU coated and PTFE laminated fabric. These results indicate that they are more flexible and have less resistance to the shearing movement, corresponding to a more pliable material having a better drape, than PU coated fabrics and PTFE laminated fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.609-619
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• 1996

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) has been used as a mainstream fiber to make silklike fiber. The silky characteristics such as softness, dry touch feeling and flexibility can be obtained by weight reduction treatment. In aqueous alkali solution, the surface of PET is dissolved away and reduced in weight. The PET fiber, yarn and fabric become thinner and the gaps between fibers are wider. Its mobility is greatly improved without change of basic structures of the treated PET fibrics. The alkali treatment was conducted under the various experimental conditions such as alkali (NaOH) concentration, treatment time and temperature. As the weight loss increased, drapability improved and tensile strength remarkably reduced. When the PET fabrics lost 30% in their weight, drape coefficient lowered as much as 30oA and tensile stregth lowered as much as 50%. The weight loss over 30% brings great improvement in drapability and dyeability and significant decline in durability. By the alkali treatment, absorbency in spectrophotometer of dyed PET can be increased as much as 82% due to the increase of the surface area and formation of microvoids on the surface.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.113-118
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• 1998

Clothing shape is principally described in seven factors that are composed of clothing design, clothing material, clothing size, pattern design, sewing method and body motion etc.. The aims of this study was to measurement out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with somato type by using the image processing. The subjects for direct anthropometric measurements were 248 female college students aged from 19 to 22. The data were statistically analyzed by principal analysis and cluster analysis. The results were obtained three somato type. Also I made skirts in order to analyzed to the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body. The effect of somato type on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body. The out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body was observed between the node number and amplitudes of clothing wave form and node number was determined at the maxim of space-shape amplitude, and the space-shape amplitudes have related with aspect ratio of cross-sectional shape. Results for flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somato type. therefore gray-level histogram are correlated with changes out-line space-shape, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somato type. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(2):113∼110 1998)

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.