• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.409-422
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• 2021

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.579-593
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• 2022

This study examines the surface characteristics, electrical conductivity, electromagnetic wave blocking characteristics, infrared (IR) transmittance, stealth function, thermal characteristics, and moisture characteristics of IR thermal imaging cameras. Nylon film (NFi), nylon fabric (NFa), and 5 types of nylon mesh were selected as the base materials for aluminum sputtering, and aluminum sputtering was performed to study IR thermal imaging, color difference, temperature change, and so on, and the relationship with infrared transmittance was assessed. The electrical conductivity was measured and the aluminum-sputtered nylon film demonstrated 25.6kΩ of surface resistance and high electrical conductivity. In addition, the electromagnetic wave shielding characteristics of the sputtering-treated nylon film samples were noticeably increased as a result of aluminum sputtering treatment as measured by the electromagnetic wave blocking characteristics. When NFi and NFa samples with single-sided sputtering were placed on the human body (sputtering layer faced the outside air) and imaged using IR thermographic cameras, the sputtering layer displayed a color similar to the surroundings, showing a stealth effect. Moreover, the tighter the sample density, the better the stealth function. According to the L, a, b measurements, when the sputtering layer of NFi and NFa samples faced the outside air, the value of a was generally high, thereby demonstrating a concealing effect, and the △E value was also high at 124.2 and 93.9, revealing a significant difference between the treated and untreated samples. This research may be applicable to various fields, such as the military wear, conductive sensors, electromagnetic wave shielding film, and others.

• Journal of Biomedical Engineering Research
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• v.44 no.6
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• pp.465-475
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• 2023

In this study, we demonstrated a silica nanofibrous membrane based on the electrospinning process and evaluated its DNA isolation and purification performance in PCR pretreatment. Generally, silica membranes made of non-woven fabric are used for PCR pretreatment, but this study aimed to improve the efficiency of the pretreatment process by developing a nanofiber-type silica membrane with high specific surface area and porosity. In order to manufacture a nanofiber-shaped silica film while maintaining the original physical properties of silica, nanofiber membranes produced by adding various concentrations of PEO (5 wt%, 8 wt%, and 10 wt%) to silica prepared by the sol-gel method were compared. In terms of nanofiber membrane production, the higher the PEO concentration, the more effective it was in producing nanofiber membranes. The produced silica nanofiber membrane was inserted to a pretreatment device used in commercial PCR equipment, and the pretreatment performance was compared and verified using Salmonella bacteria. When Salmonella was used, samples containing 5 wt% PEO showed superior PCR efficiency compared to samples containing 8 wt% and 10 wt% PEO. These results show that adding 5 wt% of PEO can effectively improve DNA purification and separation by producing a nanofiber-shaped silica film while maintaining the physical properties of silica. We expect that this study will contribute to the development of effective PCR pretreatment technology essential for various molecular biology applications.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.1
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• pp.126-144
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• 2024

The chrysanthemum vine pattern box from the Goryeo Dynasty expresses in great detail the representative features of Goryeo Dynasty lacquerware with mother-of-pearl, such as engraving patterns on the surface of fine mother-of-pearl, expressing vine stems using metal wires, and twisting metal wires to form the boundaries of each patterns. While the lacquerware with mother-of-pearl that remains today from the Goryeo Dynasty has the form of a sutra box and a box with lid, the chrysanthemum vine pattern box that is the subject of this study is in the shape of a box with a separate lid and body, making it difficult to estimate the purpose of production or the stored contents. In this study, we attempted to confirm the formative characteristics of the chrysanthemum vine pattern box in order to confirm its original form, and to investigate its structure and production technique through X-ray transmission. In addition, we attempted to identify the use and production purpose of the box by classifying and comparing the previously known lacquerware with mother-ofpearl from the Goryeo Dynasty by type. As a result of the investigation, fabric was confirmed the bottom of body and inner box through X-ray images. Through this, it was confirmed that the 'Mogsimjeopichilgi'(wooden core grabbing fabric technique) of wrapping the object with fabric was used. And through wood grain, it was possible to confirm the wooden board composition of the part presumed to be the restored part and the part presumed to have had existing Jangseog. In addition, it was confirmed that the joints were connected in a Majdaeim(part to part). Based on the survey results, a total of 14 pieces, including 9 Sutra boxes, 3 boxes, and 2 small boxes, that remain from the Goryeo Dynasty were classified by type and examined for similarity. Among them, there is a "Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern Sutra Box" from a private collection in Japan, a "Black Lacquered Chrysanthemum Arabesque Bun Sutra Box" from the Tokugawa Art Museum, a "Sutra Holder" from the British Museum, and a "Small Box with a Mother-of-Pearl Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern" from a private collection in Korea. The pattern composition of five points was most similar to the subject of this study. As a result of comparing the damage pattern, formative characteristics, and structural features of each part, it is presumed that the sutra holder in the British Museum was transformed into its current form from the original the chrysanthemum vine patterned box. Lastly, in order to confirm the purpose of production, that is, the use of this box, we investigated examples of Tripitaka Koreana printed version produced at a time similar to the social atmosphere of Goryeo at the time. Following the Mongol(元) invasion after the Goryeo military regime at the time, sutras appeared to pray for the stability of the nation and the soul of an individual, and with the development of domestic printing and paper in the 13th century, it gradually coincided with the transition from a scroll to a folded form, and the form of a box changed from a box. It is believed that the storage method also changed.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.20
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

Three kinds of natural pesticides extracted from plants which are being sold in the Korean markets, were estimated effects on materials of art of museum. Tested samples were 1) silk fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gallut(copperas post mordancy), gardenia, turmeric, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+amur cork tree, indigo+sappanwood) 2) cotton fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gardenia, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+sappanwood) 3) undyed ramie fabric 4) Korean papers : undyed, dyed(sappanwood, indigo, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower) 5) pigments : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white 6) painted plates : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white. Conditions of tests were that after samples were exposed to 10 times of promoted concentration for 9 months in relative humidity $55{\pm}1%$ and temperature $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, they were compared with standards. Items of estimation were color difference(${\Delta}E^*$) and tenacity. After exposure to pesticides, undyed silk cotton ramie fabrics and Korean papers were not nearly changed in their colors, but colors of most of dyed samples were clearly changed by pesticides except for partial samples(acorn- and madder-dyed fabrics etc, gardenia-dyed samples). Especially changes of colors of turmeric-dyed silk fabrics were most distinct. And colors of pigments and painted plates containing lead, copper, arsenic, mercury and vegetable pigments, were clearly changed. Tenacities of yams of undyed silk fabrics were not nearly changed and undyed cotton fabrics were a little reduced as compared with standards. But tenacities of yams of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were clearly reduced or increased as compared with standards. Especially, madder-dyed silk fabrics were increased 10% or more and indigo-dyed silk fabrics were reduced 10% or less in all pesticides. Also madder- and sappanwood(alum post mordancy)-dyed cotton fabrics were increased 10% or more in all pesticides.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2020

Six ornamental metal quiver fittings were excavated from stone chamber No.1 of the ancient tombs of Jeongchon, Bokam-ri, Naju. The ornamental quiver fittings are metal, but the body of the quiver was made of organic material, so that it corroded and disappeared in the burial environment. The ornamental metal quiver fittings were made in pairs, and decorated one quiver according to the location they were found in and their forms. The ornamental metal quiver fitting can be divided into two types: A band style ornament (帶輪狀金具) which decorates the arrow pouch, and a board style ornament (板狀金具) which decorates the board connecting the waist belt. Two ornamental metal quiver fittings excavated from wooden coffin 2 of stone chamber No.1, were made in the band style, while the ornamental metal quiver fittings from southeast of stone chamber No.1 were identified as two boardstyle ornaments and two band-style ornaments for what was presumed to be belt loops. Material analysis of the ornamental metal quiver fittings shows that they are made of a gilt bronze plate attached to an iron plate, and the surface is marked with a speck of chisel to make lines and patterns. Chemical composition analysis (XRF) established that 24~40wt% Au and 50~93wt% Cu were detected on the gold surface, and it was confirmed that bronze corrosion had taken place on the gilt surface. SEM-EDS analysis of the gold plating layer identified a working line for glossing, and 7~9wt% Hg and an amalgam of gilt layers was detected, confirming the amalgam gilding. CT and FT-IR analysis established that the band style was double-layered with silk fabric under the iron plate, and there was also a lacquer piece underneath. The band-style ornaments have two layers of silk under the iron plate, along with lacquer pieces. Adding the fabric to the arrow pouch increases adhesion and decorative value. It is assumed that the lacquer pieces indicate that the surface of the lacquered arrow pouch had fallen together with the ornaments. On the other hand, the board-style ornaments have a thick layer of organic matter under the iron plate, but this is difficult to identify and appears to be a remnant of the quiver board. The characteristics of these ornamental metal quiver fittings were similar in Baekje, Silla, and Gaya cultures from the late 4th to the late 5th centuries, and enable us to identify the art of ancient gold craftwork at that time.

• Journal of the Institute of Electronics and Information Engineers
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• v.51 no.10
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• pp.96-106
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• 2014

Previous academic research on FPGA tools has relied on simple imaginary models for the targeting architecture. As the first step to overcome such restriction, the issues on analytic placement and legalization which are applied to commercial FPGAs have been brought up, and several techniques to remedy them are presented, and evaluated. First of all, the center of gravity of the placed cells may be far displaced from the center of the chip during analytic placement. A function is proposed to be added to the objective function for minimizing this displacement. And then, the density map is expanded into multiple layers to accurately calculate the density distribution for each of the cell types. Early fixation is also proposed for the memory blocks which can be placed at limited sites in small numbers. Since two flip-flops share control pins in a slice, a compatibility constraint is introduced during legalization. Pre-packing compatible flip-flops is proposed as a proactive step. The proposed techniques are implemented on the K-FPGA fabric evaluation framework in which commercial architectures can be precisely modeled, and modified for enhancement, and validated on twelve industrial strength examples. The placement results show that the proposed techniques have reduced the wire length by 22%, and the slice usage by 5% on average. This research is expected to be a development basis of the optimization CAD tools for new as well as the state-of-the-art FPGA architectures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.