• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.532-548
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• 2019

This study examines Geumgwan Gaya's headgear, belt, and footwear. The relics excavated from tombs were examined first, then earthenware and clay figurines, followed by the visual data of related neighboring countries. The results are as follows. The headgear of Geumgwan Gaya, identified in the relics, is daegwan (帶輪式立飾冠) and lip (笠). Daegwan is a diadem with branch-shaped ornaments. It has an organic cap with fabric and leather as well as ties the strings to both ends of the diadem. Lip can be seen in the mounted figure of the earthenware. In neighboring countries, the top of lip is round or straight, but Geumgwan Gaya's lip is pointed and curved slightly backward. In addition, from neighboring countries' data, it is considered that the conical hat and gun (巾) are worn in Geumgwan Gaya. The belt is made of cloth or leather. Geumgwan Gaya also uses a belt with an animal-shaped hook and Jin style belt. Jin style belt shows the association with three-Yan culture of the Seonbi people in patterns and forms. Footwear of Geumgwan Gaya is li (履) and boots. Li included leather shoes, lacquer shoes, straw shoes and wooden shoes. In addition, there are leather boots decorated with round ornaments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.424-437
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• 2016

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2009

천연보존제는 주로 식물에서 추출된 항균물질로 만들어지며 부패되기 쉬운 식품의 보존제나 천연화장품, 약품등에 주로 사용되고 있다. 본 연구는 현재 천연화장품의 보존제로 개발되어진 천연보존제를 직물에 처리하여 이것이 섬유문화재 보존에 적용이 가능한지를 탐색하고 평가하는데 그 목적이 있다. 따라서 천연보존제로 처리한 직물의 특성을 알아보고자 천연보존제 1%로 처리한 면직물과 견직물에 대해 실험한 결과 색 및 인장강도의 변화가 극히 미약하고 중성에 가까운 pH를 나타내었으며 우수한 항균성과 항곰팡이성을 가지는 것으로 나타났고 견직물에 피해를 주는 Bacillus cereus에 대해서도 우수한 항균활성을 나타내었다. 또한 섬유문화재에 적용시키기 위한 예비실험으로 출토직물 편을 천연보존제 1%로 처리한 직물로 싸서 72시간 보관한 후 출토직물편의 미생물 실험결과 미생물의 증식이 확연히 준것을 알 수 있었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제40권
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

직물에 표현되는 연주문은 제작 과정상 크기나 모양의 제약이 없어 그 표현이 자유롭고, 그 형태와 재료 색체 등을 통해서 당시의 사회문화를 유추할 수 있다. 본 연구의 주제인 동전(東傳) 연주문은 사산조 페르시아에서 출발하여 실크로드를 통해 전래된 것으로 동서문화 교류와 밀접해 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 연주문이 시작되는 5세기부터 10세기에 해당하는 서 중앙아시아의 벽화 복식, 중국 신강 청해 일대에서 출토된 고대직물 그리고 일본 정창원(正倉院) 소장품의 연주문에 대해 고찰하였다. 그리고 이상의 자료를 통해 연주문의 동서 교류 현상과 구조적 변천과정을 밝히는 데에 목적을 두고 있다. 실크로드를 따라 동전(東傳)하는 연주문의 도안은 지역에 따라 조금씩 차이가 난다. 예를 들러 고대 소그들인들이 주로 활동했던 파미르고원 서쪽에서는 서아시아적인 모티브가 변형된 사슴이나 화식조 등을 주제로 하는 연주문금이 출토되지만, 쿠차 신강에서는 중국적인 모티브가 첨가되어 한자문이 삽입되거나 태양신[Helios] 대신 불상문 보살문으로 나타난다. 이처럼 새로운 문양의 등장은 구조적인 변화를 동반하여 점차 사산조 페르시아의 정형화된 패턴에서 벗어나게 된다. 그리고 그 구조적인 변천과정은 후대 여러 문양의 구성 및 배치방법과 연관이 있다. 연주 환간의 마름모꼴 공간에 안치된 사합초화문 등이 능화문의 형태로 발전되었으며, 10세기 이후 나타나는 기하학적인 골조문양의 유행 단위문양을 상하좌우로 배치하는 탑자문의 전개법이 연주문과 유사하다. 요컨대 연주문은 기술적 진보와 함께 표현 자체에서 세련된 예술적 코드를 읽을 수 있으며, 지역이나 문화를 넘어서는 보편적인 문양으로서 중요한 의미를 지닌다.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제13권
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• pp.37-44
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• 2012

심수륜(沈秀崙, 1534 ~ 1589)묘 출토복식에서 발견되는 백색 결정의 특징과 분포양상을 조사하고, 그 중 7점에서 시료를 채취하여 성분과 결정구조를 분석하였다. 총 46점 중 36점에서 경도와 형태가 조금씩 다른 백색 결정이 관찰되었는데, 결정의 생성은 직물소재나 복식용도와는 특별한 상관관계가 없었다. 다만, 복식의 앞부분보다는 뒷부분에서 주로 관찰되었으며, 염습 흔적이 있는 곳을 중심으로 분포되어 있는 양상을 보였다. 결정의 성분은 전자현미분석기(EPMA)로 분석하였으며, 결정 구조는 X-선회절분석기(XRD)를 이용하였다. 퓨리어변환적외선분광기(FT-IR)를 이용하여 다른 유기성분이 포함되어 있는지를 조사하였다. 분석결과 백색 결정은 마그네슘 인산염 무기결정인 스트러바이트와 뉴베리아이트로 동정되었다. 스트러바이트 결정의 생성은 Mg²⁺, NH₄⁺, PO₄^3- 이온의 농도, pH, 그리고 온도 등 여러 가지 요인으로 부터 영향을 받는다. 스트러바이트의 구성물질인 마그네슘, 인산, 암모니아는 인체 분해 생성물로 피장자의 인체에서 기인했을 가능성이 있다. 마그네슘의 높은 농도는 회곽에서도 영향을 받았을 것으로 보이며, 또한 관 내부의 혐기성 미생물과 약염기성 환경도 생성의 요인으로 작용하였을 것으로 추정된다. 결과적으로 조선시대의 독특한 무덤양식인 회곽묘는 심수륜 묘 출토복식에서 발견되는 마그네슘 인산염의 생성과 밀접한 관련이 있을 것으로 보인다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

1973년 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니는 대부분 온전한 형태를 갖춘 국내에는 유례가 없는 유물이다. 죽제 장니의 출토 사례는 천마총 외에도 금관총 금령총 출토품이 있으나, 모두 편으로만 존재하여 정확한 형태나 제작기법에 대해서 알려진 바가 없다. 본 고에서는 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니의 화면구도와 제작기법에 대해 육안관찰과 X선형광분석(XRF), X선투과분석 등을 사용하여 알아보았다. 죽제 장니는 3등분할구조를 기본으로 방사선 형태의 중앙집중구도를 이루고 있으며, 표면을 장식한 10매의 투조금동판과 직물판, 죽제판 그리고 외연을 고정시켜주는 4매의 복륜으로 구성되어 있다. 금동판에는 다양한 세공법과 영락장식으로 표면을 장식하였고, 죽제판은 약 300개의 대오리를 사용하여 세올짜기를 바탕으로 집수를 넣어 엮음으로써 물결무늬를 표현하였다. 직물판은 2종류의 직물을 사용한 것으로 관찰되며, 가죽은 부분적으로 존재하여 판으로 제작되었는지는 확인 할 수 없었다. 각 판을 결합하기 위해서 금동원두정과 영락장식, 복륜 등을 사용하였다. 이번 조사로 금관총 금령총 출토품에 대한 기본조사와 함께 5~6세기 신라시대 죽제 장니의 대한 연구에 도움이 되었으면 한다.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.