• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.153-166
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• 1996

The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.131-142
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• 2010

The ethnic image in modern fashion can be interpreted as a trend of post-modernism, which appeared after modernism's established style. It has relativity, pluralism and variety, and it tries to revive style of the past. This makes style that borrows and combines image and style of different era and culture as distinctive feature, and in turn is expressed by a new image that is combined with the country's clothes. Also, thanks to the customers who are tired of artificiality and convenience, gift of modern science and technology, simple and natural sensitive marketing and being 'raw' are getting popular as new trend. Today's ethnic image is not merely borrowing visual, superficial image of culture and clothes of other ethnic group, but pursuing natural as purely created by human senses rather than being polished. In terms of ethnic image's formative beauty and aesthetic value, foreign and domestic collections are compared. But for domestic image, only Korean ones are researched, and for foreign designer's fashion image, there are ethnic styles of Japan, China and Korea. Although the documents of domestic designers that I investigated is not sufficient, canonic simple being of oriental image that is seen by the westerners is summarized.

• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.137-148
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• 2003

The culture interest regarding the new area causes an effect even in change of fashion and that result Mongol area where it is area other than Japan, China and India and it is having compromised beauty raised it's head. Mongol is in Noin-ula area which is a it's former self of the Hun's. There is to a textile pattern which was used not only the textile pattern which has the feature of Scythian system but also the textile pattern which has the feature of China was used. The feature of Noin-ula's the textile pattern is as follows. Noin-ula's textiles used Scythian system of animal pattern, vine pattern, palmette pattern, thunder pattern, spiral pattern, shape of diamond pattern. Scythian system of animal pattern and vine pattern proves the interchange with the countries to the west of China. Noin-ula's textile pattern is applied to the designer's work of art. The designers are John Galliano, Etro, Chloe, Emmanuel Ungaro and so on, who express the modern ethnic style design. Because the more developed the modern society is the more embossed feature of intention for the race and the fork art, I think that Ethnic style design is applied to modern sensitive and ethnic style in the future.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.823-833
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• 2006

The globalization phenomenon of the 21st century has acted as the catalyst to accept diversity, and a new cultural code, ethnic, has emerged in the modem society by the pursuit of diversity throughout the whole society and culture. Unlike preceding studies focusing on ethnic concepts and design development, this study attempted comparative analyses on ethnic trends shown in the collections of two designers, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, who have strong ethnic consciousness. It is considered the comparative analysis on the two designers' collections with ethic images will be a guide to indicate the fashion philosophy of the two designers in the category of Japan, and this will be useful as basic data for the establishment of the globalization identity which is needed in the future fashion industry. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the ethnic code has been so widely accepted by the world designers in a very positive form to accept foreign cultures that the ethnic code is now showing an aspect of eclecticism. Second, designer Issey Miyake has been pursuing his own ethnic style based on his philosophy to liberate humans through continuous researches and efforts on clothes. Third, Yohji Yamamoto has been pursuing a Japanese ethnic style as a designer who has expressed the unique beauty of Japan from the characteristics of Japanese traditional clothes. Fourth, as a result of comparative analyses on collections, they both have pursued an ethnic style based on the unique national characteristics of Japan, but it was also found that their fashion philosophy has developed differently in the same category of ethnic trend.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.46-61
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• 2007

The analysis of exotic style in domestic fashion brand items aims to offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments and to analyze exotic images and styles accepted in domestic fashion market. Therefore this study analyzed the domestic fashion brand items and categorized the main exotic factors and styles so that would catch on to its characters and appearance frequency. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The styles of exotic image in domestic fashion brand items are 'natural' style, 'primitive' style, 'ethnic' style, and 'maximalism' style. Also, the main exotic factors in each exotic style were composed of a few exotic images such as 'natural', 'primitive', 'ethnic', 'romantic', 'elegance', 'splendid', 'seductive', 'retro', 'traditional', 'classical', 'bohemian', 'vintage', 'kidult', 'artistic', 'extreme compromise', and 'modern'.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.749-757
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of Latin American style expressed in modern fashion. Latin American fashion has been overlooked the influences, scope and diversity of dress within this world culture region. So, this study aim to unravel the history and significance of Latin American fashion. As for the research methodology, to classify types of the Latin American fashion style theoretical study and content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. In this study, the term of Latin American fashion style refers to the dress of common characteristics involving Latin American culture. To inquire into the characteristics of the types, various cases has been searched through books, internet, and designer's collections. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. The major types of Latin American fashion style are Indio-ethnic style, tropical-exotic style, and latin-romantic style. First, Indio-ethnic style has been involving traditional costumes and patterns which are originated in ancient Mexico and Peru. Second, tropical-exotic style has been involving bright color, tropical fruit and African flower pattern, various textures, and relaxed silhouette which are inspired by free and easy culture in Brazil and the Caribbean. Third, latin-romantic style has been involving the mix of Latin American tradition and romantic detail such as see-through material, lace, ruffle, spanish flower motif. In conclusion, Latin American style on contemporary fashion is based on interest to cannibalize folk theme, technique, icons and exotic others.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.293-319
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• 2003

Retro, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of Retro pattern which has appeared since 1990; Romantic, Ethnic, and Hippie-look. shown in VOGUE, BAZZAR and etc. 1, Romantic image overcame the exaggerated style of 18th century and expressed in a volume gown, a tight dress of high-waist, and bustier. In addition, beads or sequin became more brilliant and gorgeous which decorated the whole clothing. 2. Ethnic image was expressed with fusion of particular traits from all of the world such as Japan, China, India, South America, Greece, and Africa. 3. Hippie-look image has been shown in slim & long silhouette style, and fusion styles of romantic factors or ethnic factors were also found. Retro as one of the phenomenon of fusion was found in romantic image, ethnic image and hippie-look Image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1844-1858
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• 2010

Ethnical tendency follows the current political, economical, and cultural influence eastwards, highlighting films, architecture and interiors as well as fashion. With this tendency, the ethnic outfits are expressed by various styles. This study analyzes the features of current ethnic styles with 1,535 ethnic image pieces from 2005 S/S to 2010 F/W of Pr${\^{e}}$t-${\'{a}}$-Porte in Paris and Milan. First, 'ethnic' is to refer to the distinct features of an ethnic group or a country. 'Ethnic look' refers to the adaptation or re-arrangement of various ethnic group's traditional costumes, dying, textile, patterns, color, silhouettes, and accessories. Second, the most popular ethnics in the modern fashion is the African style, followed by India, Japan, China, and Latin America in both collections. Third, the proportion of ethnics decreased, 2005 (14.9%), 2006 (12.8%) and 2007 (8.2%). In 2008 the proportion increased again. 2010 (27.3%) and compared 2010 to 2007, it increased by 20%. By season, S/S had 1.4 times more ethnic styles than F/W with the prevalence of African and Indian styles. Fourth, as of 2005, the ethnic style became colorful and went through changes to combine various images. This is from the polycentric tendency of co-existing various styles with a prevalence of low tone and various colors. It also shows warm colors in front to show a sense of nature.