• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.5
• /
• pp.473-488
• /
• 2012

This study examines the origin of dolls as well as how the role and types of various dolls have changed in a comparison of the functions of dolls before and after $20^{th}$ century. In addition, this study analyzes symbolic characteristics appearing in doll costumes. First, doll costumes (used in child play) represent sexual roles and various role models that are taught to children. Second, they reflect the fashion trends of that time and appear in the most beautiful forms that pursue the ideals of the time where doll costumes symbolize the latest fashion of the time. Third, the culture of doll costumes symbolizes cultural identity that show native customs, art, culture, and ethnic characteristics. Lastly, a mania society for dolls and collector groups are formed that share individual sensitivity. Members of those groups have feelings of solidarity and homogeneity through doll costumes that they have decorated and expressed themselves that show the reinforcement of a group by doll costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.3
• /
• pp.14-26
• /
• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.67-79
• /
• 2016

The Oroqen (鄂伦春) traditional costume refers to what the nomadic Oroqen people used to wear before they settled into fixed communities. With very limited contact with the outside world and with limited resources, the clothing material was virtually entirely animal hide. With settlement, especially after 1996, animal hide clothing has declined among the Oroqen. As an important part of Oroqen tradition and culture, the Oroqen people keep endevoring to promote costume design through competition and exhibitions. Therefore, this paper seeks to present an insightful understanding of Oroqen culture and the formative features of their general clothing. We explored the formative features of Oroqen animal hide clothing based on an analysis of actual artifacts and literature. As a result, the characteristics of Oroqen hide clothing were found in five types - coats, trousers, hats, shoes, gloves. For the decoration, embroidery and applique were their way of decoration, and Mother Nature was their source of pattern design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.231-242
• /
• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.6
• /
• pp.147-165
• /
• 2001

Haute couture denotes a luxurious made-to-order dressmaker's shop. In principle, it refers to a place that is registered with the Paris Apparel Association and has met the size and criteria specified by the association. The features of modern fashion expressed in haute couture have been contemplated by categorizing them into mixed impression appearing in haute couture work pieces. turning the collection event into a spectacle and commercialization for the succession of haute couture. Mixed impression manifested in the haute couture has engendered (1) the creative and dynamic feature (2) eclecticism with popular culture (3) mixed impression of reactionism (4) ethnic characteristics. From the above considerations, one could say that the factors drive the very existence of haute couture and comprise three elements of impeccable backgrounds, They are (1) organizing ability and protective policies of the French fashion industry, (2) relentless experimental spirit of the haute couture designers and (3) Paris that supports creativity and fashion fabrication, have coincided with rising up of the value of persistence on originality of work pieces in accordance with diversifying cultural transformations. consumer-oriented patterns by way of capital symbolized by consumers and restructuring of company operation by each shop. This report describes comprehensive understanding of haute couture, creativity and dynamic power of the haute couture work pieces. Akin to the efforts to maintain the existence of high-grade cultures throughout the overall cultures themselves, haute couture, on the basis of these factors, should also become the motive power through which luxurious culture in fashion is created in the days ahead.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.6
• /
• pp.13-23
• /
• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.137-150
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study attempts to analyze the symbolism and fashion image of Barbie doll. It is scarcely a coincidence that the Barbie doll was developed in the united States in 1950s. She had been created in the 1950s as a cartoon character in a German newspaper, who named Bild Lilli. In 1959, toy company bought the rights and produced and almost identical doll in the United States. Therefore Barbie has symbolized the consumer culture of United States, ideal body image, and modern youth culture. It may be as a conclusion that Barbie's fashion can be divided into three period : 1. a period of classic fashion(1959-66), 2. a period of young casual fashion(1967-79), 3. a period of ethnic and career fashion. Just as Barbie's roles and clothes have changed with the spirit of the times, she is a valuable representation of female images and fashion over the last 40 years. Barbie's fashion image is divided into material girl image, dream girl image, and bad girl image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.96-104
• /
• 2016

Recently, food industries are increasingly interested in launching ethnic foods in the global market, but communicating sensory information to target consumers has been complicated due to the ambiguity and complexity of Korean sensory descriptors. This study was conducted to elicit various multidimensional sensory descriptors and their definitions using focus group interviews (FGI). Two consumer groups, consisting of 10 panelists in their 20s and 10 panelists in their 30-40s respectively, participated in the FGI. A total of 14 commonly used multidimensional sensory descriptors, including gamchilmat (감칠맛), gaeun (개운), goso (고소), gusu (구수), kkal-kkeum (깔끔), neu-kki (느끼), dambaek (담백), birin (비린), siwon (시원), sikeum (시큼), ssapssarae (쌉싸래), eolkeun (얼큰), jjapjoreum (짭조름), and kalkal (칼칼), were elicited. Their definitions showed that these descriptors not only were constructed using several sensory elements but also contained hedonic connotations. Descriptors such as gaeun, siwon, and kkal-kkeum were more closely associated with overall sensory impressions, including aftersensations and post-ingestive effects rather than sensory concepts. As individuals tend to weigh different elements to construct the concept for each multidimensional descriptor, further studies are required to identify elements consisting of these descriptors to develop better test methods and gain a clearer understanding of the sensory profiles of Korean foods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.767-776
• /
• 2005

미국의 외식산업은 계속 증가하는 추세로 2005년의 레스토랑 매출은 U.S. GDP의 4%인 4,760억 달러에 달할 것으로 예측되며 약 4.9%의 성장이 기대되고 있다. 약900,000 레스토랑에서 식사와 간식을 제공하며 또한 레스토랑에서 근무하는 종업원의 숫자도 약 1억 2천만 명에 이르러서 민간부문에서 가장 큰 규모를 나타내고 있다. 미국 내 외식 산업의 환경은 사회변화와 함께 빠른 속도로 변화하고 있다. 베이비 붐 세대가 장년기에 들어서면서 노인 인구가 급증하고 있으며, 비만과 성인병의 증가로 인해 레스토랑 메뉴의 영양표시에 대한 요구도가 커지고 있다. 또한 외식이 비만에 미치는 영향에 대한 사회적인 문제가 관심의 초점이 되면서 레스토랑에서 건강 메뉴 개발이 요구되고 있다. 이와 함께 건강지향 고객의 증가로 인해 보다 건강한 외식에 대한 필요성도 증가하고 있는 추세이다. 따라서 이러한 환경변화에 대응하기 위한 레스토랑의 노력이 어느 때 보다도 필요한 시점이다. 외식산업 시장에서 민족음식(ethnic food)은 중요한 위치를 차지하게 되었으며 고객의 보다 다양한 문화적 욕구를 충족시키기 위한 마케팅이 요구되고 있다. 미국 내 외식 시장에서 한식의 위치는 한식의 영양적 우수함에도 불구하고 낮은 인지도와 전략적 마케팅의 부재로 인해 아직 미약한 실정으로 보인다. 미국 시장 개척을 위해서는 미국의 현재 외식 산업의 추이를 파악하고 그 안에서 한식의 위치를 재정립하는 것이 매우 중요하다. 그러므로 본 연구에서는 미국 외식 산업의 현재 추이와 영양과 건강문제가 외식 산업에 미치는 영향에 대해 조사하고 한식의 대미 진출을 위한 기초 자료를 제공 하고자 한다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.653-662
• /
• 2009

The past Romanticism, which emphasized loveful, womanish property, has changed into new-concept Romanticism as it was harmonized with various emotional cultures and trends in the 21st century. New-concept romanticism is found in various fields ranging from personality, diversity and discrimination to emotion. It is appearing as a new style searching for taste as it is mixed and matched with other fields. In fashion, Romanticism and mix-and-match trend provide womanish feeling through the match with romantic chiffon, high-waisted pants and cashmere cardigan and show modern emotion through vest and short blazer. Therefore, it is necessary to reconsider the method to analyze and express fashion emotion style on the basis of mix-and-match trend of Romanticism. The purpose of this study is to analyze how Romanticism is expressed in the mix and match with other emotional style, predict direction of Romanticism style and establish the ground to find changing fashion trend accurately. The researcher expects that design development will be focused on the fashion, which is more various and characteristic and search for convenient, healthy life, on the basis of the analysis on mix and match shown in Romanticism fashion of the study. The researcher tried to provide the base of design development and assist design activation by using mix and match, which can create various new styles, accurately and understanding and predicting the fashion trend of the 21st century.