• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.231-241
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• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1255-1263
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• 2008

Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2004

The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• 한국정밀공학회지
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• 제31권11호
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• pp.1015-1021
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• 2014

This paper proposes the center distributed embroidery machine structure with 1,500 RPM, 52 heads for productivity and large sized embroidery goods. The synchronous velocity controller is adopted for control of the 2-axis distributed embroidery machine and the DOB(Disturbance Observer) is also adopted for minimizing disturbances caused by needle cams. For driving experiments of 2-axis center distributed driving structure, two conventional 26 heads 1,500RPM embroidery machines are used. It was shown that the center distributed driving structure with 2-axis synchronous control can be one way for implementing a large embroidery machine.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.51-59
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• 2024

Qiang ethnic group is one of the fifty-six ethnic minorities in China, and Qiang embroidery, as an important achievement of Qiang's intangible cultural heritage, is the precipitation and testimony of the history and culture of the Qiang ethnic group. However, with the development of the times, traditional and ancient Qiang embroidery is facing a dilemma due to the problem of a single form of communication. Therefore, it is necessary to add new communication media for Qiang embroidery to help it spread and develop better. In this paper, we extract the core representative patterns of Qiang embroidery, use the "shape grammars" as the rules of morphological changes, and generate new decorative pattern patterns with the characteristics of Qiang embroidery by adding, deleting, mirroring, rotating, and other relevant rules of changes, and combine the new patterns with the rules of formal beauty to combine the layout, which is then applied in the design of different cultural creations and products. The new patterns are combined with the rules of formal beauty and applied in the design of different cultural and creative products. To provide a quantitative method for the digital protection of Qiang embroidery in the new era of Chinese traditional art, and also provide new ideas for the industrialization application.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.176-188
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• 2013

This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.123-134
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• 2023

Fashion design, CAD production, and the use of digital software can shorten the time and production processes in the fashion industry, but there are still many limitations in how to similarly express textile textures. Having this awareness, how to implement the visual effects of textile texture similar to that of the real world in the virtual world is one of the major exploration tasks in the fashion industry. Therefore, this study aims to analyze examples of embroidery techniques in Christian Dior collections and explore how embroidery techniques in 3D CLO fashion design can express the texture of real clothes more similarly by creating virtual works through 3D samples and 3D CLO software. First, the analysis criteria and theoretical basis of this study were derived through a literature review on fashion textile embroidery techniques, identifying types and characteristics of embroidery techniques, and classifying them into 12 types. Second, photos of the Dior 2017-2023 SS/FW Ready-to-Wear collections were collected and analyzed through the case analysis VOGUE site. Third, it presents the production of 3D CLO works by deriving a method of implementing embroidery techniques through the design of sample textile embroidery techniques using substances 3D sample software. The study's has some limitations. First, in 3D CLO fashion design, the needle gap for embroidery must be widened to see the thread pattern. Second, by reducing the number of needles, it is necessary to imitate the actual embroidery effect. Third, it is judged that it will be effective to lengthen the thread and adjust the thickness of the thread. Fourth, the thickness of the entire embroidery pattern must be increased to enable a three-dimensional texture.