• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.137-146
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• 2014

The practice of sustainability is an important subject to integrate into the management, product planning, manufacturing by textile and fashion companies as well as consumption by end-users. This study shows an evaluation scale designed to assess the practical cases in order to suggest efficient and systematic methods to fulfill the practice of sustainability in textile and fashion companies. First, companies should practice environmental sustainability to use eco-friendly material and cleaner production, protect the environment, and save natural resources. Second, social sustainability is required to fulfill social responsibility and ethical needs. Third, companies should perform various innovative activities, transparency in management, fair competition and economic contribution in the local community in order to maintain economic sustainability to survive in industry. Finally, cultural sustainability should be fulfilled by textile and fashion companies as part of the intellectual-cultural industry in a way that increases the importance of ethnic and cultural diversity. Textile and fashion companies should fulfill four environmental, social, and economic cultural sustainable subjects in a balanced method to accomplish sustainability. The concerns and practices of environmental sustainability are comparatively highly rated due to the analysis of the evaluation scale. However, cultural sustainability (a need of the times) is poorly rated and needs more attention. Therefore, the evaluation scale can be used as a standard tool to fulfill the sustainability of companies and brands from the viewpoint of improving poor and insufficiently sustainable items as well as balancing sustainability management.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.17-33
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to understand the present status of the international textile fashion conventions and the Korean textile fashion conventions in order to secure competitiveness in the textile fashion industry and to discover the satisfaction of the convention and to develop an improvement plan of the current textile and fashion conventions in Korea. For the method of study, five representative conventions of domestic and foreign textiles and fashion were selected and case analyses were conducted focusing on relevant reports. Also, the satisfaction and improvement of the conventions for companies, buyers and visitors attending the Preview in Seoul(PIS) convention were surveyed. The first result of the study was that international textile and fashion conventions have clarified their identity according to changes in the market environment and buyer's interest. For example, the professional exhibition changed the nature of the comprehensive convention or made it easier for many related businesses and buyers to attend the convention by sharing the same convention period and location with other conventions. In addition, the convention hall has been constructed to display promising items, such as eco-friendly materials and smart materials. Second, participating companies, buyers and visitors of the Preview in Seoul (PIS) convention were generally satisfied with the convention, but were aware of the need for change. In particular, the satisfaction level with the number and level of new buyers at home and abroad, the number of counseling sessions and the quality level were also found to be low.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.801-811
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• 2022

In this study, we constructed a database of dyeing concentrations of all reactive dyes used for dyeing linen according to the thickness of the linen fabric and attempted to improve the reproducibility of the dyeing process for the commercialization of linen fabric materials. Linen fabric is a natural cellulose material that is comfortable and suitable for eco-friendly trends. It is a typical summer material with excellent breathability and thermal conductivity, quick moisture absorption and dissipation, and a cool touch. Dyeability and fastness were evaluated depending on the thickness of the linen fabric using a monochlorotriazine (MCT) reactive dye and bifunctional yellow, red, and blue dyes. All three colors of the MCT reactive dye and bifunctional dyes exhibited a darker shade as the fiber thickness of the marker increased. Fastness to washing was excellent at grades 4-5 or higher, regardless of the color of the dye and the number of linen fabrics. Although some color-fastness differences were noted, with the color change occurring most frequently with blue color, the fastness variations with dye type were mostly similar. The results of this study are expected to facilitate the selection of reactive dyes according to the thickness of the linen fabric based on the basic data from the laboratory, which will aid in the mass production of linen fabric and benefit the fashion industry.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.34-43
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• 2009

This study compared the thermal comfort of indoor clothing from Tencel material that is getting higher in demand due to being eco-friendly with superior wettability, with that from Polyester material that despite being most widely used for indoor clothing, rapidly discharges body sweat due to low wettability. The experiments were performed in the two manners, objective evaluation under the conditions of an artificial climate chamber and subjective evaluation of wearing the given clothes at home followed by filling in the questionnaire. Subjects were 8 healthy elderly women in their 60's who spend majority of their time at home rather than in social activities, and comparison was made on skin temperature and humidity inside clothing at exercise and relaxation states under early summer environment. Based on these results, wearing Tencel material clothing maintained cooler temperatures under warm environment rather than when wearing Polyester material clothing, thus enabling activities under more comfortable state. Regarding humidity inside clothing, parts with twofold clothing did not show difference between Tencel and Polyester, but the onefold arm showed lower when wearing Tencel. With this results, Tencel is regarded as more comfortable and nicer than Polyester.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.560-565
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• 2008

Plantae of the natural material has been broadly used on cloth dyeing by it's specific properties such as eco-friendly and innoxious. However dyeing with natural material on synthetic fiber is nearly impossible due to poor affinity between natural material and synthetic fiber. The method which is binding with micro-capsulized natural material to cloth, used in this study, has low change on quality by external influence. Also this method has high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when the treated cloth was dressed. And this method is applicable widely from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is to develop the multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Ginseng on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dyeability showed a little bit low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip dyed PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness were revealed some different grades by each condition but showed high level, in most and the micro-capsulized PET was more improver than regular dip dyed PET.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2008

Yellow, one of the five direction colors, is a prevailing color in artificial dyeing. The color has implied and symbolized wealth and power since ancient times. Yellow has been extracted mainly from flowers. Shapes, colors and scents of flowers not only have enriched emotional mentality, but have also been used for medicinal herbs, and dyestuff since the very old days. Coloring matter from flowers is very beautiful, and it has been used for dyeing textiles. Textile dyeing have formed a color culture and developed a dyeing culture since ancient times. Flowers include a variety of color matters, and can be easily obtained around us. Therefore, flowers have been a widespread natural dyestuff. It is well known that beautiful colors can be extracted from flowers, which are eco-friendly and non-polluting. In addition, flowers are easily provided. In this study, yellow wild flowers were selected as subjects. Seven flowers with color matters distiguishable through the naked eye were used: Korean forsythia, golden-wave, Mongolian dandelion, sunflower, conflower, chelidonium and chrysanthemum. Coloring matters were extracted from the seven flowers, which have been used to create a variety of colors through various dyestuffs; and the colors have been analyzed and presented. Dyeing and coloring matters were tested and analyzed, and several types of dyestuff had also been scientifically measured after treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.260-266
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• 2022

Cellulose fiber is a material used in various fields. It is the most used type of fiber because of its excellent hygroscopicity and dyeability. Recently, as natural fiber materials have been highlighted due to the influence of eco-friendliness and well-being, bamboo fiber has become a commonly used eco-friendly fiber. Cellulose fibers are part of the -OH hydroxyl group, which means they are more chemically reactive than synthetic fibers. In this study, the cationization properties of bamboo-cotton blended fabrics cationized using CHPTAC (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) in the PDC (padding-drying-curing) method were investigated. Various characteristics according to cationization were studied through elemental analysis, FT-IR (fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy) analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, TGA (thermogravimetric) analysis, and SEM (scanning electron microscope) analysis. The nitrogen content of the cationized bamboo-cotton blended fabric increased with an increase in the concentration of the cationizing agent CHPTAC, and it was seen to be highly bound to cellulose molecules. As a result of the FT-IR analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics were seen to be typical cellulose. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As the cationization progressed, micropores appeared on the surface of the blended fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 2017

Demands for nylon suede as an artificial leather are increasing due to its functionality and aesthetics. To achieve high value added nylon suede based on green technology, this study was carried out in order to obtain useful data for the nylon suede fabrics with eco-friendly dyeing process by a pad-steam method instead of a dip dyeing process using sulphur black dye to reduce the industrial waste of water. The dyeability of the nylon suede was investigated according to reducing temperatures, dye concentrations, and reducing agent's concentrations. Throughout the results of the CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell values, the optimized dyeing conditions of the nylon suede using sulphur black dye are $70^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 30% o.w.f. of dye concentration, and $9g/{\ell}$ of reduction agent concentration, respectively. Furthermore washing colorfastness, light colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.993-1008
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• 2011

Traditional culture could be a wonderful source of inspiration for creative design. Tteoksal, the stamps used for making decorative patterns on traditional rice-cakes, have been used and passed on to generations to show the emotions of our ancestors. Numerous traditional patterns found in Tteoksal can be used to better understand and transmit tradition in modern ways. The purpose of this study was to develop fashion cultural products with a modern sensibility by understanding the origin, types and characteristics of Tteoksal and its patterns. The method of this study was through considering the proceeding studies and the references published by a specialist and museums having some information about further knowledge on Tteoksal. In line with the aforementioned study, neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouches were developed as fashion goods. Among the Tteoksal's patterns selected were lotus, bats, 樂 letters and complex patterns. Using a computer graphic software program such as Adobe Illustrator CS5, archetypes of patterns were traced as vector graphics, and two design motives were developed in every pattern. The patterns were developed into two types: one was a basic pattern faithful to a basic motive pattern, and the other was a varied type that was changed and applied. The fashion products were developed as two styles for basic and varied patterns for neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouch items. Twelve products were made for each pattern, which totals 48 unique products. In conclusion, the study could be a critical step to better understand the traditional culture and its influence to the patterns applied to modern fashion design.