• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2001

In this study, both kinds of materials, that is, leather and woolen fabrics, which have similar thickness, have been adopted. To determine proper length of ease, not only sleeve cap height but also sleeve width has been adjusted mainly based on 5cm length of the ease, which follows maximum sleeve cap height, and then different length of ease, for example, 4cm, 3cm, 2cm and 1cm of ease, have been made. As a result, eighteen kinds in total of sleeves have been made: In other words, each nine kinds of both leather and woolen fabrics have different ease lengths. In addition, each sleeve has been inspected visually and functionally. Following conclusion has been gotten based on outcome of the study: 1. Proper ease length for manufacture of leather garment is said to be 1∼2 cm. As a result, ease length with higher sleeve cap height shall be 1∼2cm, while the length with lower sleeve cap height shall be 1cm or less. 2. Wider sleeve width has better function. Considering relations with sleeve cap height, sleeve width shall exceed +4cm of bicep line. 3. to satisfy a variety of those conditions while manufacturing leather garment, sleeve cap height, which is used for the manufacture of full dress and street wear garment, To lessen the ease length, body A.H shall be relatively loose under the arms, or pad shall be supplemented on the shoulder, so that the difference had better be lessened to solve such problems.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.48-57
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.911-923
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• 1995

The zone of expansion and contraction of arm surfaces was analyzed, the correlation between arm surface changes was studied, and ergonomic sleeve designs were presented in which the consideration of body surface changes is emphasized. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. As a sleeve drafting method, detailed measures should be applied on the base of the sensitivity of body surface changes. The range of arm surface changes can be divided into three zones : concentrated expansion zone, zone of little change, and contraction part. The maximum expansion zone was the upper part of elbow. 2. The correlations were higher in lengths than in circumferences. Arm lengths were mainly correlated with upper arms. The more detailed the arm surface was, the lower the correlations between surface changes were. So there was not a lot of relation between segment changes. Tendency of body surface changes depended on the anatomical structure of the upper extremity and the movements of arm muscles. 3. As an application of measures and ease, ergonomic sleeve designs weve presented in which arm surface changes were considered. Ergonomic sleeve designs are recommended for working clothes and sports wear.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.79-90
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• 2018

Fish ages are critical information in fish stock assessments because they are required for age-structure models such as virtual population analysis and stochastic catch-at-age models, whose outputs include recruitment strengths, a spawning stock size (abundance or biomass), and the projection of a fish population size in future. However, most countries other than the developed countries have not identified ages of fish caught by fisheries or surveys in a consistent manner for a long time (e.g.,>20 years). Instead, data about fish body sizes (e.g., lengths) have been well available because of ease of measurement. To infer age compositions of fish in a target group using fish length data, we intended to improve the length frequency analysis (LFA), which Schnute and Fournier had introduced in 1980. Our study was different in two ways from the Schnute and Fournier's method. First we calculated not only point estimates of age compositions but also the uncertainty in those estimates. Second, we modified LFA based on the von Bertalanffy growth model (vB-based model) to allow both individual-to-individual and cohort-to-cohort variability in estimates of parameters in the vB-based model. For illustration, we used data about lengths of Korean mackerel Scomber japonicas caught by purse-seine fisheries from 2000-2016.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.103-120
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• 2012

The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.839-852
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• 2023

This study examined personal protective clothing, specifically the D (M, L, XL) and C (L, XL, 2XL) levels with high sales rates. The goal was to collect essential data for developing Korean personal protective clothing. There were eight and twelve patterns for the D-level and C-level, respectively. While the pattern dimensions were similar, the chest and waist circumferences (relaxed) were larger in the C-level, and the waist (extended), hip, upper arm circumference, and total lengths were larger in the D-level. The D-level wear sensation worked well for average-sized Koreans in their twenties, but the C-level caused discomfort in multiple areas, such as the face, arms, armpits, hips, crotch, thighs, and knee during movement. Consequently, this region required pattern adjustments and resetting for improved comfort. The grading rules were 10 cm in the chest, waist, and hip circumference, regardless of the level, with slight differences in other parts depending on the levels. Thus, manufacturers should establish new grading rules to suit the Korean body shape.

• IE interfaces
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.105-111
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• 2011

Measurement protocols for hand anthropometry have been studied for ergonomic product design. The present study developed a 3D semi-automatic measurement protocol (3D-SAMP) which semi-automatically measures various hand dimensions using a 3D scanner. The 3D-SAMP was compared with the conventional direct measurement method (DMM) to examine its effectiveness. The 3D-SAMP consists of (1) fabricating a plaster cast of the hand, (2) placing landmarks on the plaster hand, (3) scanning the plaster hand with a 3D scanner, (4) identifying automatically the positions of the landmarks on the digital hand, and (5) extracting automatically hand anthropometric measurements (lengths, widths, thicknesses, and circumferences). An evaluation experiment conducted in the study found the 3D-SAMP preferred to the DMM in terms of reliability (the number of dimensions exceeding the variability criteria SD=2 mm and CV=5% : 3D-SAMP =2 and DMM=24) and ease of measurement (3D-SAMP=5.2 and DMM=4.3 out of 7). The 3D-SAMP can be applied to ergonomic design of a hand-held product.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.226-242
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• 2022

For clothing items that combine the top with the bottom, such as a jumper suit, it is necessary to design original forms to develop clothes in various styles that can satisfy aesthetic and functional needs. Therefore, to determine the original forms of women's jumper suits, this study aimed to analyze the patterns of women's jumper suits being sold in the market comparatively and evaluate their fitness. For the study method, this researcher obtained five types of women's jumper suits from local brands and compared the patterns' measured sizes, then conducted exterior evaluation on the surplus according to five different movements and analyzed the values of distortion of clothing pressure comparatively. According to the results, in the basic posture, brands A and C received favorable results, while in the other movements, brand B, which had the biggest surplus on the bottom, was evaluated favorably. In conclusion, in the patterns of women's jumper suits, a bigger surplus is added to either the crotch length or crotch girth rather than the top length, and the top and the bottom tend to have a different surplus according to the design. In addition, based on the values of body surface lengths according to the range of movements, this study suggests that an additional surplus be added to the length.