• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.859-871
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of the pigment characteristic and changes in dying conditions on the dying properties by extracting Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum using distilled water and ethanol as solvents. Changes in dying conditions include variations in dye concentrations, dyeing temperatures and time on dye uptake, and K/S Value was compared according to these changes. Additionally, color changes were observed through mordant. Ultraviolet-visible spectrum was used to investigate the pigment characteristic, and as a result, tannin was identified in distilled-water-extract, whereas berberine and chlorophyll were identified in ethanol-extract. In FT-IR analysis, tannin in distilled-water-extract was verified as hydrolyzable tannin. For ethanol extract, chlorophyll was verified through absorption band of C-H, which is aliphatic spectrum around $2920cm^{-1}$ and $2850cm^{-1}$. From GC/MS analysis, oil components as well as terpine compounds were detected in ethanol-extract, and this, in turn, brings expectation regarding functionality. When dying in silk, dye uptake increased as concentration of the extract increased, and the optimum dyeing temperature and time were $40^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes respectively. Dyed fabrics' colors were all basically Y-series colors, and adjustment in brightness and revelation of khaki color were also available depending on the type of the mordant. Color fastness, except for washing fastness, was good in silk dyed with distilled-water-extract. Thus, it can be concluded that by selecting the right extracting method and by doing proper dyeing and mordant according to the needs, these dyed fabrics can be used as eco-friendly, functional clothing material.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제12권
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• pp.9-17
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• 2011

본고는 적색계 염재인 소목, 꼭두서니, 홍화, 자초로 염색한 직물편에 대한 비파괴 자외 가시광 분광분석 및 3차원 형광 분광 분석 내용으로 고대 직물에 염색된 염료 규명을 위한 기초 자료 구축을 위함이다. 직물이나 매염제의 종류에 따라 각 분석 결과에 영향을 주는지 여부를 확인하기 위하여 직물 2 종류(면과 견)와 매염 방법 3 가지(무매염, 백반, 철)로 염색한 직물시편을 제작하였다. 염색 직물편에 대한 자외-가시 분광반사 스펙트럼 결과 소목, 꼭두서니, 자초로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 관계없이 매염제에 따른 차이를 보였다. 또한 홍화는 직물 및 매염제에 따른 차이가 없었다. 3차원 형광 스펙트럼 측정결과 소목은 매염제에 따른 차이를 보이며 꼭두서니의 경우 직물에 따른 차이를 보였고, 홍화의 경우 직물과 매염제 관계없이 고유한 형광스펙트럼으로 나타났으며, 자초의 경우 형광스펙트럼이 나타나지 않았다.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.406-413
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• 2009

전통 오방색 중 흑색 재현을 위하여 오배자, 신나무 잎, 감즙, 밤껍질, 묵즙 등을 이용하여 한지에 천연염색을 실시하였다. 흑색 염색을 위해 염료별 단독염색 및 복합염색을 행하였고, 매염제 및 염색순서를 달리하여 색상의 발현 특성을 조사하였다. 아울러 염료의 농도(o.w.f) 변화에 따른 염색 특성을 조사하여 흑색 발현을 위한 최적 염색조건을 구명하였다. 한지의 흑색 천연염색 발현에 있어 오배자가 가장 중요한 염료 물질로 나타났으며, 복합염색의 경우 오배자 염색 $\rightarrow$ 초산구리 매염 $\rightarrow$ 신나무 잎 염색 $\rightarrow$ 철 매염의 순서가 가장 우수한 흑색염색 특성을 나타냈다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.129-135
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• 2018

Scientific investigation of cultural heritage can provide important information to understand the context of the object. To know the characteristics of the material is also an essential part of objects management and conservation. However, the identification and characterization of organic dyes used in archaeological and historical textiles are often limited by the restrictions in sampling. To cope with the difficulties, applications of high-performance techniques of surface analysis, such as Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectra (TOF-SIMS) could be considered as a non or micro-destructive option. This study aims to examine the applicability of TOF-SIMS analysis to the detection of organic dyes from historical textiles. A group of silk fabrics dyed with vegetable dyes were artificially photo-aged to different degrees and analyzed with TOF-SIMS. Molecular and fragment ions from indigo were successfully detected from the aged samples; however, only some fragment ions were observed from gardenia and safflower dyed fabrics. Further studies with actual historical samples with extended examination scope would be necessary to assess the validity of this technique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.433-440
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• 2002

Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2019

In this study, the dyeing properties and functionalities of Crataegi fructus extract were investigated for the purpose of application to new natural dye resources. The effects of dyeing conditions(concentration of dye, dye bath temperature, dyeing duration and dye bath pH) and mordanting on dye uptake and color changes were also examined. The study also estimated the colorfastness, antibacterial properties, and ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The dye uptake increased in tandem with the dye concentration and dye bath temperature. The highest K/S values were obtained at the following conditions: a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing period of 60 minutes, a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing pH of 3. The colorfastness of the material when dry cleaned or rubbed ranged from good to excellent and fastness to light was rated at grade 2-3. The change in the color grade when exposed to washing was not good; however, the stain of washing fastness was good at a range of 4-5. In regards to the functional property aspects, the dyed and mordanted fabrics exhibited excellent results with a 99.9% reduction rate, and excellent ultraviolet protection factors.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2017

Today, modern people are exposed to various environmental pollutants such as harmful substances and stress, which can compromise health. Therefore, a healing culture that seeks to enjoy human life based on the healing of body and mind is attracting great attention. The purpose of this study is to develop environmentally friendly natural dyeing considering a healing concept with four elements: color, dye, material, and pattern. The research methods and scope are based on a theoretical review of healing and research on the literature of bedding related to natural dyes, national and international books, the Internet, etc., and naturally dyed bedding. This paper presents actual production research. The results of this study are as follows. First, the elements of color, dyeing, material and pattern were developed through the process of a bedding design development model that applies a healing concept and can be commercialized as a healing bedding product. Second, a healing color proposal was expressed in an intermediate color system of pink, ocher, lavender, and indigo colors for emotional stability, warmth, calmness, comfort and softness. Third, eco-friendly bedding using natural dyes with medicinal efficacy can obtain the healing effect of the natural treatment method, which can aid healthy sleep. Fourth, the pattern used in the bedclothes was a motif of Sarasa embroidery, flower embroidery, ribbon embroidery, and wave quilting motifs to provide psychological stability as a healing concept in the sleeping environment. The natural healing bedding with the healing concept proposed in this study has natural treatment that is beneficial to human health and the development of bedding with natural dyes will lead to an increase of demand for the sleeping environment.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.76-82
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• 1997

In paper the evenness of planar distribution of mass in a small scale is called formation (orbetter:mass formation). Traditionally formation has been assessed visually, by looking the sheet of paper against transmitted light. Different kinds of optieal testers are being usd to obtain quantitative rankings htat would be independent of the observer but would well correspond to the visual assessment. However, various raw-material and process factors do influence light trans-mittance in paper and do impair the correspondence between basis weight and the optical formation measurement (or visual assessment). As the optical formation test methods do not incorporate an efficient calib ration routine, the formation of the sophisticated paper grades of today the is rather difficult to measure optically and may lead to erroneous results. It may be concluded that the optical measurement is not suitable for paper grades with high filler content. coating, heavy calendering or that are made of heavily beaten pulp, nordoes it apply for dyed or printed papers. For this reason, visual assessment and optical evaluation shoild be replaced with a measurement that gives reliable results independent on paper grode and manufacturing process. Formation measuremend based on beta radiation is suitable for all paper grades regardless to the material contents or process treatment. It is possible to measure even dyed or printed samples. Thonks to a sim ple and relioble calibration, the results are converted to real basis weight balues that remain reliable even with time. The only beta tester commercially available is the AMBERTEC Beta Formation Tester. Formation of paper does vary locally in the web. Typically there exists a formation profile, too similarly to other properties of paper. Therefore, formation should ？ ays be expressed as a mean of a sufficient amount of parallel determinations. All formation measurements should be calibrated against basis weight.