• Title/Summary/Keyword: dyed material

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The Stability Appraisement on Cultural Property Material with the Replacing Fumigation Gas of Methyl Bromide (Methyl Bromide를 대체하는 훈증 가스의 문화재 재질 안정성 평가)

  • Kang, Dai-Ill
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.283-291
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    • 2009
  • Methyl Bromide that was used as fumigation gas turned out to be the substance of destroying the ozone layer. For that reason, at the Montreal Protocol in 1987 the use of methyl bromide was forbidden starting 2005 in the advanced country. Also according to the 2007 Bali Protocolly methyl bromide is expected to be forbidden and therefore the purpose of this study is to find out the effects of substitution fumigation gas (Ethylene Oxide+HFC 134a, Methyl Iodide, Cyanogen and Argon) on the metal(silver, copper and iron), wood(oregon pine), pigment(yellow, red, blue, white and black), textile(hemp, ramie, jute, silk1 and silk2 / indigo, safflower and cork) and paper. After the fumigation test, ethylene oxide+HFC 134a did not have changes in the weight and color of the material itself before and after the experiment. On exterior alteration, color change occurred partly on paper and metal. Also, in most materials color change extent was 0.5 to 1.5 on the average and showed scanty difference. The materials after the fumigation test with methyl iodide did not show weight changes after the test. However, color changes more than 1.0 was shown in most of the materials especially in dyed textile material. In blue pigment, the discoloration on the surface could be seen by naked eyes. Fumigation test with cyanogen gas did not show weight changes and discoloration is more than 1.5 before and after the test. The weight changes of test materials with the argon gas was decreased about 3 to 6%. It can be observed that discoloration on paper was generated. Color changes can be seen on jute dyed with safflower and cork for two weeks with argon gas and the extent was 6.3 and 6.0.

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Adhesion properties of Microorganisms onto surfaces of phosphorylcholine(PC)-modified copolymer for sensor applications (센서 응용을 위해 포스포릴 콜린으로 개질된 고분자 막 표면의 미생물 점착 특성)

  • Kim, Sun-Yong;Sohn, Ok-Jae;Chae, Kyu-Ho;Rhee, Jong-II
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.23 no.3
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    • pp.226-230
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    • 2008
  • In this study we have studied adhesive properties of various microorganisms onto surfaces of phosphorylcholine-based copolymer for the application of optical biosensors. Three microorganisms, E.coli JM109, B.cereus 318, P.pastoris X-33 were cultivated in confocal cultivation dishes with glass surface, respectively. The glass surface was coated with copolymer containing 0% 5% and 10% MPC (2-methacryloxyethyl phosphorylcholine). After cultivation, culture medium was discarded and adhered microorganisms were dyed by gram staining method. Adhered microorganisms were analyzed using an optical microscope and scanning electronic microscope (SEM). A great number of microorganisms, $2-3{\times}10^3/mm^2$ were adhered on the surfaces of glass and copolymer membrane without MPC. But the antifouling effects of copolymer containing 5% and 10% phosphorylcholine were large, that microorganisms of less than $50-100/mm^2$ were attached on the copolymer membranes. Thus, the copolymer containing phosphorylcholine is very useful as an antifouling coating material for optical biosensor.

A Study on the Fashion Item of the Symbolic Fashion Icons in the 20th Century (20세기 상징적 패션 아이콘에 따른 아이템 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

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Design Development of the Recuperation Clothing using Polygonum Indigo and Traditional Design for New Silver Generation (발효쪽 소재와 전통디자인을 활용한 뉴실버세대의 요양복 개발)

  • Kim, Bok-Ju;Cho, Oh-Soon;Park, Hye-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.9_10
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    • pp.1408-1417
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    • 2007
  • In Korea, to deal with the housing needs of the elderly, the government operates free nursing homes and residential homes. And to deal with the needs for daily necessities, imported products or products for the disabled have been supplied for the elderly. The government has recognized the importance of silver industry in this rapidly aging society and has established strategies to vitalize industries related to seniors to deal with the seniors' need for food, clothing, and shelter. This study examined the necessity of nursing home gowns, and the development of nursing home gowns that are environmentally friendly, beautiful and functional for the new silver generation. For this study, literature review and Internet search were conducted regarding the status of silver fashion, necessity of nursing home gowns, emergence of new silver generation and change in lifestyle, and value and utilization of natural dye and traditional patterns. To produce nursing home gowns, fabric was dyed using fermented indigo dying, and 3 styles of nursing home gowns for each gender were designed in consideration of seasons. Lastly, these gowns were evaluated by fashion experts, medical personnel, hospital gown and silver wear experts, and natural dye experts. The results showed that the traditional Korean designs developed in this study were excellent and the fermented indigo dye was appropriate for the nursing home gowns. The development of nursing home gowns in this study will be utilized as basic material for the development of silver wear and nursing home gowns to improve the quality of life for the seniors.

A Study of Folk Costume Culture (II) -Field Research Around the Mt. Kumo Area- (서민복식문화에 관한 연구(II) -경북 금오산 주변지역의 민속조사 결과를 중심으로-)

  • Hong, Na-Young;Lee, Eun-Joo;Lim, Jae-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.71-79
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    • 1995
  • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

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Discoloration with Indigo Blue 1 dyed PLA Fabric - Washfastness (Indigo Blue 1으로 염색된 PLA섬유의 변.퇴색성 : 세탁견뢰도를 중심으로)

  • Jeong, Dong-Seok;Chun, Tae-Il;Lee, Mun-Cheul
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2012.03a
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    • pp.53-53
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    • 2012
  • Poly(lactic acid)(이하 PLA라 칭함)는 초기 연구에서는 제조비용과 희귀성으로 봉합사 등의 의료용 등의 용도가 제한적이었으나 1980년대의 유전공학의 발전과 이를 바탕으로 1990년 이후 농업의 혁신적인 변화를 거쳐 옥수수의 여러 측면의 이용 중의 하나로서 2000년 초에 양산화에 성공하여, 의류, 필름 및 플라스틱의 다양한 분야에서 적용되고 있다. PLA의 장점은 석유가 아닌 천연 원료에서 얻을 수 있으며, 기존의 합성섬유와는 달리 일정한 조건하에서 미생물 등에 의해 물과 이산화탄소로 분해되는 친환경적인 소재이다. 합성섬유 중에서 의류용의 대부분 차지하는 폴리에스테르(이하 PET라 칭함)와 유사한 물성을 가지고 있는 PLA섬유는 PET섬유와 유사한 분산염료로 염색할 수 있다. 따라서 PLA섬유는 분산염료에 의한 염색법을 중심으로 연구되어지고 있으나, PET 섬유의 융점이 $254^{\circ}C$부근인 반면, PLA섬유는 $160-170^{\circ}C$ 부근이다. 이로 인해 PLA를 섬유로 용도전개에 있어서 약점으로 작용하고 있다. 그러나 PLA섬유는 특유의 경량감과 새로운 촉감 등의 많은 장점을 지니고 있어 여러 가지 용도전개가 되어지고 있다. 배트염료는 그 자체로서는 불용성으로 섬유와 친화성이 낮지만, 알칼리성 환원욕에서 셀룰로오스 섬유 등에 친화성이 있다. 화학구조적으로 안트라키논, 인디고계가 주류를 이루고 있으며, 색상적으로는 화학구조의 제약으로 선명도가 약깐 낮은 중간색 계통이 대부분이지만, 견뢰도 면에서는 다른 염료에서는 얻을 수 없는 높은 견뢰도를 가지는 것이 배트염료가 지니는 장점중의 하나이다. 셀룰로오스계 섬유에 주로 이용되는 배트염료를 나일론과 폴리에스테르 중심으로 합성섬유에 적용하는 연구 및 실용화가 되어지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Indigo Blue 1을 중심으로 염색된 PLA섬유의 반복 세탁에 의한 염색물의 변 퇴색성을 조사하였다.

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Symbolic Values of Fur in Fashion Since 1990s - An Analysis under the Theories of Fetishism -

  • Hahn, Soo-Yeon;Yang, Sook-Hi
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.5
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    • pp.49-64
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    • 2001
  • Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.

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A Study on the Shape, Characteristic, and Investigated Design of Goryeo-Achungunsura-Jisun (고려 아청운수라 질손의 형태와 의미 규명 및 고증 디자인 연구)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.1
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    • pp.135-146
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

A Study on Eco-Friendly Jaquard Fabric Design Utilizing Natural Dyed Silk Screen Printing (천연염료 실크스크린 기법의 텍스타일 디자인 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Ae Ja
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.412-423
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    • 2016
  • This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

The Dyeability of Silk Fabrics with Sweet Potato Stem·Leaf Extract (고구마 줄기·잎 추출액을 이용한 견직물의 염색성)

  • Hong, Bo Geun;Lee, Jeong Sook
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.219-229
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with sweet potato stem leaf extract. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing conditions(temperature, pH, time and bath ratio). The dyeability and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. After dyeing, various color fastness(wash fastness, dry cleaning fastness, light fastness, rub fastness, and perspiration fastness) was measured and reviewed for UV protective, deodorant and antimicrobial functionality. The optimun output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 80 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and mordanting, it was found that among four mordants of $Alk(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, $SnCl_2$, and $FeSO_4$, post-mordanting with $SnCl_2$ showed the best results. Color fastness to dry cleaning, washing and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to perspiration was as good as 3 while to light fastness was good at 4 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98.3% UV protection rate and 88% deodorization rate. Antibacterial activity was 99.9% against staphylococcus aureus and 73.3% against klebisella pneumoniae. In conclusion, we validated that the dyestuffs from the disused sweet potato stem leaf extract would be useful as a natural dye material using the optimized conditions and dyeability for silk dyeing.