• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2000

The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.83-97
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• 2006

This Study is a thesis presenting handicrafty and decorative textile design as well as sensual fashion design through the works of Gustav Klimt. The result is as below; The formative qualities in the works of Klimt could be featured as decorativeness, sensuality and symbolism. First, the decorative inclination is prominent in the portrait and the effect is maximized with the golden mosaic shape expressed on the dress and the background influenced by the Byzantine. Second, the sensuality could be recognized directly from the women's pose or facial expression in the works of Klimt, otherwise appeared on the refined expression showed on the portraits of noble lady Third, to surpass the reality, Klimt preferred the symbolic expression, which can be shown on the patterns in the works addressing the themes such as the legends and myths, or figures of men and women expressed with the image of an abstract features of membrum. The development of the textile design is as fellowed. First, it analyzes and reconstitutes the formativeness and the element of design in the works of Klimt by the flow of the form factor. Second. it makes a pattern of a single nature through perception, analysis, description and drawing and expresses with realization of the characteristics of Klimt. Focusing on the handicrafts and decorativeness out of the latest trends and making the most use of the sensuality, the designed textiles were completed by the handicrafty techniques, used in the fashion design and completed as the design of sensual images. The textile development aims at minimizing the limit of design that can be caused by the absence of silhouette and detail, expanding the range of its creativity of fashion designs and creating fashion design high value-added.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.397-415
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.856-865
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• 2010

Many efforts to develop the domestic fashion industry have continued under the influence of a rapidly changing fashion industry environment. The fashion industry has emerged as a future growth industry leading lifestyle and as a core industry for the culture biz. Since the 2000's the markets that combined party and fashion wear as a new cultural trend has grown and an in-depth study of design development for party wear is required. This study presents basic materials for design development for the future domestic woman character casual brand prior to the design development by analyzing design characteristics of domestic female character casual brands. In the research methods, nine brands were selected based on the discussion of ten fashion specialists and then the brand concept, target, configuration of items, price, and design characteristics were analyzed. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, each brand concentrated the main focus on establishing a clear and unique brand identity that meets the needs of consumers to enhance competitiveness in the woman's dress market. To enhance competitiveness, many character casual brands targeting women aged 20's and 30's (including BEART) held party wear goods exhibitions as the market for party wear has increased significantly. Second, according to study results of the selected nine brand designs, it was found that the style characteristic of each brand varies depending on concept. However, all nine brand designs developed various styles such as feminine and cute style making use of laces, ruffles, A line silhouette, colorful motifs, and a stylish style that used layers with various materials along with unique decorations based on romantic emotions. Third, seven hundred and thirty eight pictures of nine brands were analyzed by items without identifying brands. According to the result of the analysis, the percentage of items used by brands was as follows: a one-piece dress was 34.5%, jacket 25.7%, skirt and pants 15.5%, blouse and shirt 13.6%, and tops 10.6%. The result showed that one-piece dresses accounted for the highest percentage. Frill accounted for 16.6%, the highest percentage followed by ribbons at 16% in regards to detail and trimming.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.