• Title/Summary/Keyword: draping

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Development of Basic Pattern of Wedding Dress I - Focused on Torso Pattern for Top Dresses -

  • Kwon, Sookhee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.439-448
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    • 2018
  • This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

The Flow of the Interstellar Plasmas surrounding the Heliopause estimated via IBEX-Lo Observations

  • Park, Jeewoo;Kucharek, Harald;Isenberg, Philip A.;Paschalidis, Nikolaos
    • The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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    • v.43 no.1
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    • pp.51.3-52
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    • 2018
  • Since Voyager 1 passed the Heliopause in 2012, it has provided the observations of the charged particles in the local interstellar medium. However, Voyager 1 only provides the information along with its trajectory. In order to understand the global view of the interstellar plasma flow surrounding the Heliopause, we need another tool. When the interstellar plasmas approach the Heliopause, the ions are deflected around the Heliopause due to the draping of the interstellar magnetic field. The draping of the interstellar magnetic field is strongly connected with the shape of the Heliopause. A fraction of the diverted ions exchanges their charges with the undisturbed primary interstellar neutral atoms, and then the ions become neutral atoms called the secondary interstellar neutral atoms. The newly created neutral atoms carry information on the diverted flow of the interstellar ions, and a fraction of them can travel to the Sun. Therefore, the secondary component of the interstellar neutrals is an excellent diagnostic tool to provide important information to constrain the shape of the Heliopause. The secondary interstellar neutrals are observed by Interstellar Boundary Explorer (IBEX) at Earth's orbit. Since 2009, two energetic neutral atom cameras on IBEX have measured neutral atoms and it has provided sky maps of neutral atoms. In this presentation, we will discuss the directional distribution of the secondary interstellar neutrals at Earth's orbit. In the sky maps, the primary interstellar neutral gas is seen between $200^{\circ}$ and $260^{\circ}$ in ecliptic longitude and the secondary components are seen in the longitude range of $160^{\circ}-200^{\circ}$. We also present a simplified model of the outer heliosheath to help interpret the observations of interstellar neutrals by the IBEX-Lo instruments. We extract information on the large-scale shape of the Heliopause by comparing the neutral flux measured at IBEX along four different look directions with simple models of deflected plasma flow around hypothetical obstacles of different aspect ratios to the flow. Our comparisons between the model results and the observations indicate that the Heliopause is very blunt in the vicinity of the Heliospheric nose, especially compared to a Rankine half-body or cometary shape.

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Effect of the Pattern Making Method on the Silhouette of the Flared Skirt (패턴 제작 방법이 플레어스커트의 실루엣에 미치는 영향)

  • Shin, Young-Ran;Chu, Mi-Seon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.989-996
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

A study princess line patterns for wedding dresses - Draping technique for standard body type women from age 25 to 34 - (웨딩드레스용 프린세스라인 원형개발 연구 - 25~34세 표준체형 여성을 위한 드레이핑 기법으로 -)

  • Kim, Hae-Yeon;Park, Sun-Kyung;Jeong, Jae-Chul
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.6
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    • pp.913-927
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    • 2017
  • This study is based on the results of the $7^{th}$ Korea Human Size Survey (Size Korea). The standard body shapes of Korean women between 25 and 34 years old were analyzed and used to develop a prototype princess line for wedding dresses. or this purpose I conducted a literature review and a survey of the actual situation of domestic ligaments. In order to select suitable ligaments for the standard body type of 25~34 year-old Korean women, I collected the most representative ligaments from around the world: Stock man from France, Superior from the USA, KIIYA from Japan, and Pig and Nonno from Korea. They were then compared and analyzed. In the form of a formal wedding dress, a prototype princess line was developed by a draping technique in order to finely implement the human body fitting. To develop the prototype of the princess line, I made test garments with muslin. 25 to 34 years old Korean female standard body type Three human subjects close to the average measurement value were selected as subjects. An exterior appearance evaluation questionnaire was created with 28 questions focusing on the main parts of the prototype princess line. The clothes were evaluated three times. In this study, aesthetic and functional elements were considered for the development of princess line prototypes for wedding dresses. In addition, the amount of spare area was given differently. This study is significant in the achievement of a dress line closest that closely matches the human body line of the standard Korean female body type.

A Comparative Study of the Draping Pattern based on Setting Waist Base Line of Dress Form (인대의 허리 기준선 설정에 따른 입체 패턴 비교 연구)

  • Yang, Chung-Eun;Kim, Yang-Weon;Lee, Eun-Kyung;Lee, Hae-Young
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.969-977
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    • 2007
  • The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

A Study on Corset Look Pattern - Focused on Women in Their 20s with Standard Body Type - (코르셋 룩 원명에 관한 연구 - 20대 전기 표준체형 여성을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Si-Man;Sung, Ok-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.8
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    • pp.48-59
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this research is to develop a basic pattern of corset look taking into consideration characteristics of human body and fit, by transforming 3 dimensional information obtained from draping of standard body type of women in their 20s, which constitute the biggest consumer group of corset look in Korea, on the basis of body shape of women best reflecting 3 dimensional characteristics. In order to develop a corset look pattern suitable for standard body type of women in their 20s, wear tests of A, B, and C types of patterns in terms of the bust in the standard body type that bust circumference 86.7cm and chest circumference 87.0cm were evaluated best. Taking into consideration above findings, fer the purpose of developing a corset look pattern having an excellent fit and reflecting characteristics of Korean women in their 20s with standard body type, a corset look pattern was designed with proper ease calculated by draping incorporated, and through alteration and complementation of such a pattern, a study pattern was produced. This study is expected to provide tips for standard body type women in their 20s with smaller bust circumference to choose clothing allowing for a better fit able to make up for weakness of their body, while presenting to clothing makers ways of designing and size-setting in terms of characteristics of body type of these consumers.

Comparative Analysis of Domestic University's Curriculum in the Field of Clothing Construction for Activating Fashion Business (의복구성분야 교육과정 비교분석을 통한 패션산업 활성화 방안 -4년제 국내 대학을 중심으로-)

  • Hong, Sung-Ae;Lee, Jin-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.11
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    • pp.1399-1408
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    • 2011
  • This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of clothing construction to provide some fundamental information for developing more appropriate educational courses and to activate the fashion business. A total of 82 different departments related to fashion and apparel were selected from four-year domestic universities and the curricula recently posted on their internet websites were analyzed by descriptive statistics. More than half (53.7%) of the 82 departments were offering classes in the clothing construction field for 3 credits and 4 class hours. College affiliation of the departments that offered curricula in the clothing construction field was classified into 5 categories: the arts (34), human ecology (22), natural sciences (14), humanities/culture (9), and others (3). Human ecology category showed the highest results in the average class hours (3.9), the number of classes in the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes in the clothing construction field out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). All 82 departments were classified into 3 categories of: fashion design (32), clothing (28), and fashion business (22). The clothing category showed the highest results in the average credits (2.8), class hours (3.8), the number of classes offered by the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes that offer clothing construction education out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). The educational contents of clothing construction area were classified into 8 different categories of: basic theory and sewing, clothing construction, flat pattern, draping, tailoring and advanced clothing construction, pattern CAD, sewing science and apparel manufacturing process, and clothing construction for special needs. Among these categories, the draping category constituted 21.7% as the largest part. In addition, the distribution of classes offered by 4 academic years were analyzed into 8 different categories.

Multi-scale Process-structural Analysis Considering the Stochastic Distribution of Material Properties in the Microstructure (미소 구조 물성의 확률적 분포를 고려한 하이브리드 성형 공정 연계 멀티스케일 구조 해석)

  • Jang, Kyung Suk;Kim, Tae Ri;Kim, Jeong Hwan;Yun, Gun Jin
    • Composites Research
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    • v.35 no.3
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    • pp.188-195
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    • 2022
  • This paper proposes a multiscale process-structural analysis methodology and applies to a battery housing part made of the short fiber-reinforced and fabric-reinforced composite layers. In particular, uncertainties of the material properties within the microscale representative volume element (RVE) were considered. The random spatial distribution of matrix properties in the microscale RVE was realized by the Karhunen-Loeve Expansion (KLE) method. Then, effective properties of the RVE reflecting on spatially varying matrix properties were obtained by the computational homogenization and mapped to a macroscale FE (finite element) model. Morever, through the hybrid process simulation, a FE (finite element) model mapping residual stress and fiber orientation from compression molding simulation is combined with one mapping fiber orientation from the draping process simulation. The proposed method is expected to rigorously evaluate the design requirements of the battery housing part and composite materials having various material configurations.

Compressive and failure behaviour of composite egg-box panel using non-orthogonal constitutive model (비 직교 물성 모델을 이용한 복합재료 계란판의 압축거동 및 파손)

  • Hahn, Young-Won;Chang, Seung-Hwan;Ryu, Yong-Mun;Cheon, Seong-Sik
    • Composites Research
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.20-26
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    • 2009
  • In the current study, thermoforming and compression analysis were carried out for the woven composite egg-box panel with the non-orthogonal constitutive material model, which is proposed by Xue et al. The material model is implemented in commercial engineering software, LS-DYNA, with a user subroutine. Directional properties in non-orthogonal coordinates are determinedusing the deformation gradient tensor and the material modulus matrix in local coordinate is updated at eaeh corresponding time step. After the implemented non-orthogonal constitutive model is verified by the bias extension test, the egg-box panel simulations are performed. The egg-box panel simulations are divided into two categories: thermoforming (draping) and crushing. The finite element model for crushing analysiscan be obtained using the displacement result of thermoforming process.

Apparel Design and Pattern Construction Utilizing Expressive Properties of Corset Look (코르셋 룩의 표현적 특성을 활용한 의상디자인 및 패턴제작)

  • Yoon, Jin-Ah
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.159-170
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    • 2006
  • This study aims to examine the expressive properties of contemporary corset, and to develop designs and produce patterns for corset look clothes. Through these courses, it develops a pattern that may all meet the exactness, functionality and aesthetic aspects of a pattern and provides materials that may help create a corset look design in the course of actuallymaking a garment. Based on the elements mentioned above, a total of three (3) real works were developed and their patterns were created. The patterns include two (2) flat patterns and one (1) patterns using the draping method. The results found in the course of creating works and patterns are as follows: With new corset look designs, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of the body In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becoming outerwear may be a new idea in dress designing.

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