• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.119-132
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• 2016

Weighting of silk fabrics have long been practiced in silk fabric trading based on the primary consideration of price-weight, and secondary one of quality improvement in handle, luster, and drape properties. Recent trend of practicing weighting of silk fabrics is, however, focused on the improvement of the handle, luster, drape, and other properties. During the finishing processes of synthetic fiber, nylon, comprising amide structure, include the use of tannic acid, especially in the dyeing. A multitude of studies are being implemented in terms of improving fastness to washing, fastness to light of dyed nylon product, or the light fastness of nylon 6 itself. In this study, the effects of various tannic acid treatments on the physical properties related to the handle of nylon 6 and silk fabrics are examined and reviewed. The effects of treatment condition of the tannic acid, e.g., the concentration of the aqueous tannic acid solution, treatment time, and temperature were investigated. As the concentration of the aqueous solution of tannic acid increased, the bending rigidity values of the silk and nylon 6 fabrics increased. The treated fabrics felt stiff to the touch. Within the mild conditions of bending employed in the bending measurement of KES, nylon 6 treated fabric specimen exhibited a trend of improvement of bending resiliency within the range of small bending deformation. The weight of treated fabrics have all increased. The air-permeability values decreased as the treatment concentration increased. However, the decrease tendency of air permeability values may be alleviated by adjusting the fabric count during the tentering or expanding processes, either by tension adjustment or heat treatment. Optimum conditions of the treatment for nylon 6 are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1, and those for silk fabric treatment are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1. The treatment conditions will lead to the improvement in the properties of fabrics for summer.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.245-248
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• 2004

This study examied ned physical properties and surface characteristics of papers post-processed by Jumchi technique and stainability of extract from Amur Cork-Tree to use Dakji as clothing material. Then, it found the following results. After-treatment by Amorphophalus konjac K. Koch and persimmon juice showed stronger tensile strength and tearing strength than untreated samples and the drape stiffness was substantially increased. After-treatment by persimmon juice generated dyeing effects as well as excellent tensile strength and tearing strength all samples were generally dyed well by Amur Cork-Tree, While the untreated samples did not show any significant effects in dyeing for more than 5 minutes. It was found that after-treatment substantially contributed on concentration of dyeing as dyeing amounts of post-processed samples were gradually increased as time increased. After-treated sample with agar did not show any significant differences from untreated sample. Accordingly, it has to be studied further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1079-1089
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• 1998

Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.979-986
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, and the hand of soybean/cotton blended fabric after dyeing with natural and synthetic dyes. Soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with extracted solution from turmeric, sappan wood, gardenia and synthetic dyes(weak-acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes). The hand value of soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with 6 different dyes was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts was the highest. 2. The color fastness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with reactive dyes was excellent. The fastness to the light of the same fabric was much better than the other fabrics. 3. Linearity of load-extension and tensile energy of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts showed very high. Shear stiffness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes was much higher than that of fabric of dyed with reactive dyes. Bending property of the fabrics dyed with natural colorants(sappan wood, gardenia) showed very high, but that the fabric dyed with reactive dyes was very poor. 4. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed the highest. Fullness and softness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed very low.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.79-87
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• 1989

In the part 1 and 2, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer and fall & winter fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes were measured by KES-F system. The experimental results are statistically analyzed in the aspects of the mechanical properties, their effects on the hand values, formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior. The correlation in the hand values are analyzed, too. Furthermore, there mechanical properties are discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows: 1. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes have box-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity and shear elasticity. 2. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are inferior to silk fabrics, superior to polyester fabrics in formation. 3. A drapability and wrinkle recovery of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes formation for weared clothes are inferior to polyester fabrics, superior to silk fabrics. 4. A primary factor of mechanical properties contribute to the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are same as the Korean women's winter fabrics, except for flexibility with soft feeling. 5. As for the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are superior to those of polyester fabrics. And also, flexibility with soft feeling, scrooping feeling of core-spun yarn woven fabrics have greater values as compared with silk fabrics for Korean folk clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.262-273
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to investigate the softening effect of cellulase-treated cotton fabric and the damage on the fabric which is accompanied by the treatemnt. Cotton fabric is treated with cellulase under various concentrations and time, and the weight loss, hand values (by KES), surface characteristics, moisture regain, tensile strength, copper number and intrinsic viscosity of the treated samples and untreated samples have been compared. The results are as follows: 1. The weight loss of cotton fabric increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treating time increased. 2. The enzyme treatment had little effect on the stiffness of the treated samples but anti- drape stiffness decreased for the treated samples. Fullness and softness of the treated samples increased and crispness decreased with the lowest level reaching after two hours of the treatment for all concentrations. Scrooping feeling of the treated samples increased and flexibility with soft feeling increased as the treating time and the concentration of cellulase increased. 3. Moisture regain of the samples decreased as the treating time and the concentration of the enzyme increased and the treated fabric showed cracks on the fiber surface, and much surface fibers on the fabric have been removed after the treatment. 4. Tensile strength of the samples decreased as the treating time and as the concentration of cellulase increased, and the copper number increased while the intrinsic viscosity decreased as the treating time increased, but cellulase concentration had a little effect.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.795-806
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• 2004

Unripe indigenous persimmons which contain rich tannins have been used as natural dye materials traditionally and have been using continuously for dyed clothes named Gal-ot in Jeju. Those persimmons were cheap and easy to use as dyes because of inedible and widely cultured in Korea. Persimmon juice dyes not only make fabrics brown-color but also give functional and hygienic properities such as stiffness, air ventilation of clothes, antibacterial activity, protectivity against ultraviolet light. However there are several serious problems which are ristriction of dyeing periods, longtime irradiation, uneven color and low color fastness etc. in persimmon juice dyeing. This study purpose to improve dye effect and method in order to enlarge useability of persimmon juice dyeing. Cotton fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up using padding machine after dipping in persimmon juice extracted from unripe persimmons indigenous from Jeju. It was possible and available to control pick-up rate. The color of dyed cotton fabrics by padding method was more even and repeatable than which by traditional hand method. Persimmon juice concentrations were 4 types of 10, 25, 50 and 100％. The more concentration increased, the more color deepened. UV Irradiation instead of sunlight was applied to color developing. Irradiation times were shortened till 1∼8 hrs. Same color values could be taken without water wetting which were required in sunlight irradiation. Tensile strengths of cotton fabrics pad-dyed with low concentration of persimmon juice decreased but recovered at high concentrations. Elongations(％) of cotton fabrics pad-dyed with persimmon juice were increased 1％ more than undyed cotton in sunlight irradiation. Drape stiffness increased upto double times as much as.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.30-42
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• 2017

A comprehensive research must be conducted on manufacturing techniques such as patterns and sewing, with the understanding of material properties to satisfy consumers' emotions with a strong fashion trend orientation. Physical and emotional characteristics may change depending on the characteristics of the material, and the overall silhouette and feeling of the garment can change depending on how sewing is conducted.To examine the completeness of a finished garment depending on different kinds of clothing material, this study fabricated an actual garment and a 3D virtual garment as well using 3D CAD IMAGE SYSTEM (CLO 3D, DC Suite, etc.) for a comparative analysis. These two methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. This study selected five of the most representative clothing materials and conducted a comparative analysis on appearance differences between actual clothing and virtual clothing by material. Additionally, the study verified the similarity between actual clothing and virtual clothing by comparing their physical properties by material, and evaluated the objectivity and accuracy of the reproducibility of material properties of virtual clothing.