• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2003

Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.146-156
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• 2022

In this study, the dyeing properties of double knit fabric composed of PET/PTT bi-component fiber and quick dry fiber were examined with disperse dyes. In addition, the shrinkage characteristics were investigated during the dyeing process. The K/S values and shrinkage rate of PET/PTT bi-component fiber were higher than those of PET/co-PET bi-component fiber and quick dry fiber. In the dye bath, dye migration of exhausted on PET/PTT bi-component fiber to quick dry fiber was found at high dyeing temperature. It was not found that there was a significant difference in K/S value on dyeing temperature between 115℃ and 130℃. But the slight color difference of two sides of a double knit fabric was found.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 위편성포의 역학적 성질값들의 조합값이 직불의 변형거동에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지에 대하여 편성조직과 편성밀도를 달리하여 살펴보고자 하였다. 위편성포 6종류를 선택하여 ($1{\times}1$ 고무편, 편반편, 편대편, 인터록편, 싱글피케, 크로스미스 인터록) 각각 편성밀도를 3가지(loose, medium, tight)로 달리하여 총 18종류의 위편성포를 제작하였다. 단위면적당 무게에 대한 굽힘 히스테리시스의 비인 2HB/W는 모든 편성조직에서 편성밀도가 증가함에 따라 커지며 싱글니트보다는 더블니트에서 더 큰 값을 보인다. 전단성질 중 탄성성분에 대한 소성성분의 비인 2HG/G는 모든 편성조직과 편성밀도에서 3이상의 매우 높은 값을 나타냈다. 표면의 요철변동에 대한 마찰계수의 변동비, 즉 MMD/SMD값은 편성밀도가 커질수록 감소하여 표면상태가 평활해짐을 알 수 있으며 더블 니트가 싱글니트보다 더 적은 값을 나타내어 표면의 평활도가 훨씬 우수한 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.253-263
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• 2003

The purposes of this study were to find out an evaluation scale that could predict wear comfort and to investigate the effect of the skin-contacting fiber type on the subjective sensation and microclimate. Sensorial evaluation was basically followed by the Human Perception Analysis (HPA) interviewing 144 consumers. Sixteen female subjects were participated in the sleeve wear test with and without wearing vapor permeable water repellent outerwear. Experimental sleeves were constructed using the same double knit by turning inside out to control other material effects except the skin-contacting fiber type, hence each different side of double knit, cotton side and the cotton/polypropylene blend side, was next to skin in each trial of the experiment. As results, it was noted that the term representing a combined feeling of thermal and wetness sensation, and muggy appeared to be a powerful language to measure perceptual responses of human subject among five dimensions of evaluation. although the ordinary users did not use the term very often. As for the comfort properties of double knits, it seemed that subjects slightly more preferred polypropylene/cotton blend to cotton as the skin-contacting fiber type when they wore outerwear and their skin were covered with sweat, although the result was rot statistically significant and need to be confirmed under higher work load.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.53-58
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• 2008

New dyeable PP fiber and several products from it has been developed through dispersing polyester copolymer into PP resin by a Korean synthetic fiber manufacturer and its colleagues. The dyeing properties of PET/dyeable PP double knit fabric were examined with three different types of disperse dye in this study. It was found that the disperse dye, exhausted on dyeable PP at early stage of dyeing, migrated to PET at elevated dyeing temperature when two fibers were dyed in the same dye bath. The ratios of dye distribution between two substrates dyed at $120^{\circ}C$ and $130^{\circ}C$ showed no difference. S type disperse dyes showed good build-up properties and acceptable color fastness while high light fastness type exhibited the lowest amounts of exhaustion but excellent color fastness. It might be concluded that the most appropriate dye for PET/dyeable PP double knit fabric was S type, and that some color difference between PET side and dyeable PP side was unvoidable.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.224-233
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• 2022

Recently, consumer tastes of various classes at home and abroad prefer comfortable, unadorned, and simple clothing, and the athleisure trend, which can be used freely in daily life as well as exercise, has expanded to overall clothing products. Existing materials used for athleisure are composite knitted fabrics using polyester yarn and PU yarn, which has problems due to a chronic lack of color fastness and contamination by dyes even when PU laminating is applied, making it difficult to apply various colors. There is a quality problem in which deformation of the product occurs due to lack of durability. In this study, CDP yarn(75de/72f) and PU yarn(40de) were selected to commercialize the circular knitting for athleisure using CDP yarn in order to solve the problems that occur in the dyeing and laminating process when using polyester materials. CDP yarns were used to knit into single(CP75-S) and double(CP75-D) knit and single knit were found to be suitable as athleisure fabrics. After pretreatment and treatment under various conditions, the stainability of CDP circular knitting was examined. After pretreatment and dyeing process under various conditions, the property of scouring and dyeability of CP75-S were evaluated.