• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권4호
• /
• pp.120-134
• /
• 2007

The usage of basic bodice blocks at men's apparel companies is investigated and the domestic and international men's upper bodice blocks are compared to find directions of research on development of bodice basic blocks. The following conclusions are found in this study. 1. The survey shows that basic bodice blocks are not used at men's apparel companies although all the respondents have good knowledge on bodice basic blocks. They responded that basic bodice blocks for representative body figures of each age category or of each country would help comparative studies on domestic and international basic bodice blocks and development of exporting apparel products. Also, they expected the utilization of men's basic bodice blocks both as education materials and in studies of design, of body figures, and of basic blocks for industry. 2. The comparative study on men's bodice blocks shows that waist circumference, hip circumference, neck circumference, height, and shoulder length, in addition to the minimal essential size items such as chest circumference and center back length, are used in most basic bodice blocks. The size formulae of each basic block are compared to find how the sizes are determined. For center back length, either measured back length or a certain proportion of height is used. For front and back interscyes, chest circumference is used in most basic bodice blocks. Either measured size, or a certain proportion of height or chest circumference is used for back height. The averaged ease allowances of basic bodice blocks are 3.2 cm for chest circumference, 10.8 cm for waist circumference, 1.2 cm for front interscye, 0.1 cm for back interscye, 0.2cm for shoulder length, and 0 cm for center back length. However, body blocks for different types of clothes have different ease allowances. Shirt basic blocks have ease allowances of 6.1 cm for chest circumference, 13.7 cm for waist circumference, 1.4 cm for front interscye, 0.6 cm for back interscye, 1.2 cm for shoulder length, and 1.8 cm for center back length. On the other hand, jacket basic blocks have ease allowances of 8.8 cm for chest circumference, 16 cm for waist circumference, 1.1 cm for front interscye, 1.4 cm for back interscye, 1.1 cm for shoulder length, and 0.8 cm for center back length.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.159-170
• /
• 2016

This study is aimed to research the trend of studies on the evaluation of clothing fit using the domestic research journals. clothing fit has long been regarded as the most important element to customers in clothing appearance. Understanding fit from a consumer's perspective is complex. 85 articles were collected from domestic academic sites (KISS, DBpia, KiSTi). Many clothing fit articles published on the 2011-2016 year. In research target, young women were more than other age groups. On the evaluation of clothing fit, method of clothing fit classified survey using the questionnaire and wearing test. Many articles were used the survey using the questionnaire, 57.7%. The other articles were used wearing test with professional analyst and objective evaluation tool. Objective evaluation was used 3D virtual wearing systems (i-designer, DC suit, CLO et al). In the survey using the questionnaire and wearing test using the objective evaluation, jacket and pants were researched on the clothing items mainly. Many young women put on the jacket and pants to active energetically. In the future, researches related clothing fit need to develop the objective and accuracy evaluation tool of clothing fit.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.111-119
• /
• 2005

The growth in the amount of selling of family-look clothing was recently observed in an domestic apparel industry. The issue related to the consumers' purchase behavior toward family-look clothing would closely connected with their relationship among family members, especially, the family cohesion. To understand the consumers' purchase behavior toward family-look clothing, the study investigated the relationship with the purchase behavior toward family-look apparel and family cohesion as well as other clothing behavior. Most of the respondents$(76.7\%)$ had never purchased family-look clothing and most of the consumers$(75.7\%)$ who had purchased family-look clothing expressed their satisfaction with the purchase. The results revealed that the family cohesion had statistically significant influence on purchase intention toward family-look clothing, that is, consumers who were closely linked together with their family tended to have an intention to purchase family-look clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권4호
• /
• pp.545-559
• /
• 2015

This research investigates consumer responses to different types of fashion film used in national women's wear brands. The content analysis was conducted as a preliminary study for women's wear fashion brand based on the 2012/2013 fashion brand yearbook. Three types of fashion film (Wearing Apparel Products, Brand Advertising and Storytelling were used as stimuli for the present study. We analyzed 224 data gathered using SPSS 22.0. The results showed significant differences among types of fashion film in regards to film attitude, product evaluation, creativity, information literacy, re-watching intention and word of mouth intention variables. This study revealed that the Brand Advertising type received the most positive evaluation in many aspects. Especially, the Storytelling type received the most positive evaluation in creativity. Wearing Apparel Products type gained high points in information literacy. The present study helps brand managers determine a fashion film that best suits each brand characteristics.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권10호
• /
• pp.1596-1610
• /
• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.129-147
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 18호
• /
• pp.87-96
• /
• 1996

본 연구에서는 청색을 대상으로 하여, 청색이 전달하는 이미지의 색채표현 특성을 파악한 후, 색채관련 문헌자료의 고찰을 통하여 상징적 측면에서 청색이미지를 분류하였다. 또한, 20세기 이후의 복식 룩(look)을 중심으로 하여 복식에 나타난 청색이미지를 고찰하였고 국내 의류제품에 사용된 청색의 색채경향을 파악하여 복식에 주로 사용된 청색과 그 이미지를 분류하였다. 연구결과, 청색은 한색, 후퇴 색, 진정 색이라는 청색의 색채표현 특성에 의하여 긍정적인 이미지로서는 신성함, 고귀함, 무한함, 정신, 낭만, 깨끗함, 차가움의 이미지를 전달하였고 부정적인 이미지로 우울함, 반항, 악마 등의 이미지를 전달하였다. 현대 서구 여성복식에서는 회색 띤 색조를 제외한 다양한 청색 조가 사용된 것으로 나타났으며, 특히 복식에서는 클래식 룩과, 워크웨어 룩, 밀리터리 룩, 마린 룩 등에서 어두운 청색이 주요한 이미지 요소로 작용하여 전통적인, 보수적인, 남성적인, 딱딱한, 절제된 이미지를 나타내거나 흰색과 배색되어 산뜻한 이미지를 나타내었다. 최근 국내 의류제품에 사용된 청색의 색채경향 분석결과에서는 보라 띤 청색의 주로 연하거나 어두운 색조가 많이 사용되는 것으로 파악되었다. '97/'98 F/W까지의 유행 예측 색으로서의 청색에서는 녹색 띤 청색과 보라 띤 청색의 연하고 밝고, 탁한 색조가 제시된 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제41권2호
• /
• pp.242-253
• /
• 2017

We selected 81 universities (39.1%) for research and close analysis to analyze the current availability of courses in the field of clothing construction at four-year domestic universities. The results of the analysis shows that curriculum is currently composed of theoretical and practical courses that continue to be developed in diverse areas of study. Despite having classes with underlying similarities and differences, research shows that the course curriculum is constructed systematically with both theory and practice at each stage. Distribution of curriculum in the field of clothing construction were organized and analyzed by similar courses in 4 larger groupings and 9 sub-groups. Analysis of the large groupings showed that sewing courses (19.8%), pattern development courses (41.0%), advanced sewing courses (14.1%), and miscellaneous courses (26.1%) were established. Analysis of the sub-groups showed that basic theory and sewing courses (3.6%), sewing courses (16.1%), flat pattern courses (17.9%), draping pattern courses (14.6%), pattern CAD courses (7.3%), tailoring and advanced sewing courses (8.5%), scientific sewing and apparel production processing courses (1.4%), special sewing courses (3.9%), and miscellaneous and new subject courses (26.1%) were established. Overall analysis of the organization distribution was conducted in the order of pattern development (39.9%), miscellaneous & new subject (26.1%), basic theory and sewing (19.8%), and advanced sewing (14.0%). Field analysis from various angles indicates that pattern development, new subject courses, and miscellaneous courses had a relatively higher proportion than other major courses. From this it can be inferred that this trend is an effort to develop individuals to adapt to a rapidly changing fashion industry and environment. The composition of courses also shows great advancement towards diversification and course development. However, there is still insufficient exchange between industrial and education sites. As active exchange continue to be demanded, classification standards for new subject courses and titles of such studies have become unclear and have reached limitations.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.49-61
• /
• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권2호
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to create the program for efficient inventory management and reduction, investigating the present conditions and factors of the inventory throughout current apparel industry. The research method applied in this study is to survey 92 domestic companies which were randomly selected with respect to the kinds of goods produced : men′s wear, women′s wear, and unisex wear. The research can be summarized as follows : 1. The seasonal stock rate of current apparel industry was 28.75%, and the rate of men′s wear companies was higher than that of women′s and unisex wear companies. 19.43% of stock cost reflection rate was applied, and the stack cost of men′s and women′s wear companies was higher than that of unisex wear companies. 2. Periodic bargain sale was the most frequently used way of stock clearance, and "uniform price sale"and outlet stores were the second and the third irrespectively. Unisex wear companies appeared to be more enthusiastic in stock clearance than the companies belonging to the other two categories. The main places for the stock clearance were department stores, outlet stores and enterprises specialized in the stock clearance. 3. QR production was proved to be the most commonly adjusted method of stock reduction, and the emphasis on development of new design and the utilization of stock management system through computer network were the next, While unisex wear companies had established the positive policies, men′s wear companies took lukewarm altitudes in every aspect. The companies selling on an order were 18.64%, and unisex wear companies showed the higher rate. The lead-time after QR production was 10.91 days, and it seemed to take more time for men′s wear companies than for women′s and unisex wear companies. The rate of the chance in stock was proved to decrease by 12.94%, and there was found no meaningful difference among the three categories of apparel companies.