• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.130-139
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• 1994

This study was performed to provide the dress form for high school girls' clothing construction which can reflect the characteristics of their body. Two hundred and forty seven high school girls aged from 15 In 17 were directly measured. The results obtained from this study were as follows ; 1. High school girls' somatotype was similar to that of young adult women. They had the features of well developed upper trunk and well developed breadth, but less developed depth. 2. The correlation between length item and the other items was small enough to interpret that each item was independent. There was a Positive correlation between depth item and girth item. And, Observed correlation between weight and Rohrer's index and breadth, depth and girth item was much larger than expected, which showed that weight and Rohrer's index influenced on fatness factor. 3. Through factor analysis, six factors were extracted from anthropometric measurements. The first factor was representing upper body volumn which expressed the characteristics of somatotype better than any other factors, the second factor was breadth, the third factor was size, the fourth factor was length, the fifth was back shape and the sixth factor was shoulder shape. 4. For development of dress form for high school girls, directly anthoropometric measurements were used. The dress form constructed through this study represented the characteristics of high school girls, therefore this would be very useful to manufacture clothing for them in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.341-349
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• 1991

This study was done to provide basic data for clothing design and thus to contribute to the academic development of the clothing and textile area. The focus of this study was to charac­terize the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view. For this purpose, firstly, categorization of the subjects based on their lateral view and definition of each category, secondly, characterization of each somatotype, and thirdly, sugges­tion of the deterministic criteria of each category were complished. The subjects in this study were female college students of 18 to 26 year-old whose somatotypes were comparatively invariable after cessation of physical growth. The metrical items characterizing upper body lateral view were chosen. Data were collected through Anthropometry and Photometry and analyzed by Factor analysis. The results were as follows; 1. Each subject's side view contour was classified as straight type, lean-back type, bend­forward type, and swayback according to its position to the relative plumb line. Straight type was defined as the type in which the plumb line passes through the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joint, and the mid abdominal region laterally. Lean-back type positioned the plumb line more posteriorly than straight type. Bend-forward type positioned the plumb line more anteriorly than straight type. Swayback positioned the plumb line at about the same line as straight type. And curvature of side view contur was more prominent in this type than in straight type. 2. Seven factors were figured out. The first factor was representing upperbody volume, and the second factor was representing size, the third factor was horizontal distance from lateral view representing size view contour. The fourth factor was front body length, the fifth factor was back body length. The sixth factor was shoulder length and shoulder width representing shoulder shape. The seventh factor was the bust shape.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2009

Due to rapid economic growth and accelerated urbanization, numerous cities in China have been turning into huge consumption markets almost simultaneously, and thus, the Chinese apparel markets being globalized are most vigorous in the world, attracting attention from the world apparel industries. If the Korean apparel businesses should develop the products befitting the conditions of the Chinese apparel markets and reflecting her consumers' fashion trends and needs, their apparels would be satisfactory enough to Chinese consumers, being competitive in the Chinese markets. In this sense, today's Chinese apparel markets may well provide the Korean apparel businesses with both crisis and opportunity. As one of the methods to enhance Chinese consumers' satisfaction with the Korean apparels, the Korean apparel businesses should consider seriously about the apparel fitting or a factor determining apparel silhouettes and sense of wearing. Since Chinese consumers differ widely in terms of body types and measurements depending on regions due to the vast territory, differentiation of the apparel fitting is more important than any other single factor, and thus, correct information about apparel fitting may well be directly related with manufacturing of excellent apparels. The purpose of this study is to comparatively analyze the upper body measurements and types of the Chinese and Korean women in their 20's to provide the Korean apparel business engaged in Chinese markets with some basic data about apparel fitting conducive to their development of effective apparel commodities. For this purpose, Chinese women in their 20's living in China's two major cities leading China's women's apparel markets were sampled.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.502-517
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• 2008

The purpose of the study lies in the measurements of breast shapes and upper body types for the women in their 40's, with the use of 3D measurement system, and in the presentation of brassiere patterns fit for their body types. As for the study method, 3D human body types were analyzed with RapidForm 2006, and the upper-body types and breast shapes were statistically classified through technical statistics analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, variance analysis, and cross analysis. The wearing tests went through the comparison of the brassieres of three makers in the market and the experiment brassieres(first and second) and then the evaluations were made by the subjects, the outer appearance assessment by experts, and 3D measurements. The findings of the study indicated that the evaluation of experiment brassieres was excellent in every item, and he significant difference was found out particularly in the items of pressure, rear center, front center, breast underneath, adequate level by wing, and adequate level by armhole. According to the results of 3D evaluation, experiment brassieres had a highest point in fitness with no physical pressure at the wing part and no overall deviation at the cup art. The pattern comparison showed the differences in the parts of total cup angle, cup circumference length, lower cup height, wing length, and wing angle.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.353-363
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• 2008

The Purpose of the study was to examine the formative characteristics of silver fashion design by analyzing the silhouettes, colors, patterns, textures, and details in the brands for silver generation in Korea. Photographs of silver generation women's brands were collected to be analyzed with a focus on formative characteristics using SPSS packages. The result revealed the common formative characteristics of madam-brands and designer boutique brands-they both use semi-fitted silhouette with lighter colors for upper garment, and darker shades for lower garment. When it come to textile, upper garment was mainly made with hard and soft textile. In patterns, plain, flower print, and asymmetrical patterns were used for upper garment, and plain patterns for lower garment. Despite the gap in price, there were few differences in madam-brands and designer boutique brands with partial differences in the kinds of patterns, the proportion of patterns, the details such as zip-ups and buttons, beads, laces, and ruffles, and the use of different textiles for each brand. In conclusion, it is important to develop design that helps cover the body shapes of silver generation customers while highlighting the unique design of each brand for the development of the silver fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.50-66
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• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1582-1592
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to suggest production planning model for women's apparel manufacturer, which are relevant to the situation of Korean clothing industry. The research was based on simulation method. The basic model for the simulation was developed based on the empirical data from six production fm. After verifying the basic model, low alternative production plans went through trial run. In order to suggest the application of these alternative production plans for various style numbers and lot sizes, the simulation results were compared in terms of product efficiency and product cost. The four alternative plans were as follows: 1. The first alternative was to spread out work loads among workers in order to resolve bottlenecks in work flow. So this was suited to manufacturers that had constant production without regard to changing seasons. 2. The second alternative was to merge the skirt and trouser production, which require less work load, in one line. In this line, a few machine was justified by production improvement. It was suited to cases which producted various style suits. The third and fourth alternative were using another subcontractor for assembling inner shell garments. These was compatible in manufacturers which had to product more styles and sizes of trousers and skirts than those of upper garments. 3. The third alternative was to reassign the same workers in production line. Thus, production was increased. 4. The fourth alternative was to except two worker in production line, so expenses of worker's wage was decreased. The four alternatives could be one of the cost effective manufacturing plans according to manufacturer situations.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.25-37
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to understand the physiological characteristics of muscular men between the ages of 20 and 34 years who are distinct from the general population due to their muscular development, and to categorize them according to upper body somatotypes. This research was conducted in order to provide basic data necessary for developing clothing products for muscular men. The research method and results were as follows: the "Sheldon's" and "Heath-Carter" somatotype classification methods were carried out at sports centers, the Athletic College, and military bases in Seoul and Gyeonggi province. Excluding the 32 subjects that did not have a balanced mesomorph, ectomorphic mesomorph or mesomorph-ectomorph, research on the remaining 168 subjects was used in the data analysis. 2. We used the following factor analysis: factor 1 for torso size; factor 2 for upper-arm, armpit, and chest breath size; and 3. The upper body was categorized into four (4) types, and their individual characteristics were as follows: Type 1 had the most developed arms, shoulders, chest muscles, and the shortest height. These subjects had an average of 191 somatotype points and could be classified as a balanced mesomorph. The heights and the lengths of Type 2 were short. They had slim physical structures, averaged 182 somatype points, and could be classified as an ectomorphic mesomorph. somatotype points and were classified as a balanced mesomorph. The heights and the lengths of Type 4 were long. They had slim physical structures, averaged 164 somatotype points, and were classified as a balanced mesomorph-ectomorph. 4. After carrying out a discriminant analysis to validate the categories of muscular men's upper bodies, we concluded that our model had an accuracy rating of 98.1%.