• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1509-1521
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• 2008

The subjects of this study were middle-aged women in their 40s$\sim$50s and older women aged 60 and over who were living in Seoul and Kyonggi-do, Korea. Through studying the participants' responses to the questions regarding the attributes of apparel quality in terms of the levels of satisfaction and importance, the target consumers' demand has been studied. And, they are applied to a QFD Matrix, to find out the relationship between the attributes of product quality and the guidelines of clothing design. For this study, apparel product quality is composed of five parameters: practicality, aesthetics, brand image, ease of care and fit. For the parameters of apparel product quality, the result of this study show that product improvements are needed in fit, aesthetics and practicality(in order of importance). The level of satisfaction(how satisfied consumer feels) was marked higher in brand image than that of importance(how important it is). To review demands for the apparel product attributes of formal suits for middle-aged and older women, the priority of these attributes through QFD Matrix that shows the relationship between the attributes and dress elements emphasized by designers has been examined. Material was the most important design element in designing formal suits. The shape of the pants was the second because the harmony between the jacket and the pants is important in formal suits. These were followed by trim and color tone of the jacket.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.703-714
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to acquire various methods for the fashion image coordination and to examine common features of variation of coordination methods according to the trend. It has attained by investigating Men's fashion image coordination through trend analysis in terms of its coordination features and its variety aspects. For this study, it has classified into twelve typical Men's fashion images in collecting 1,291 pieces of photographs on the subject of jackets and pants from Men's fashion collection$(1995\~2002)$. The study has examined methods and features of fashion image coordination by year according to design elements and the harmony between items. In addition, it has drawn common factors in the image coordination. The summary and conclusion are as follows. A year of 1995, it has presented as the essential code of the variation that morphologic aspects of a design in the fashion image coordination. Various designs have developed through the variation of shapes such as shoulder width, shoulder pad, jacket width and its length and so on. In the initial stage, the width of shoulder and jacket has fitted into large pattern and then adjusted elegantly to make fit the body that indicates a dissolution according to an avant-garde image. At the time that over-measurement of the shape has reduced and high quality and variation of materials has gradually become significant. Those are often used that high-quality glossy materials or other materials which are opposite to the basic code of the original fashion image materials and qualities regardless of images. On the pattern and color, in addition, have represented neat and elegant impression with moderate applications rather than quantitative abundance that have used opposite elements to the basic code f3r the change code like materials. Furthermore, before and after 1999, ' it shows that a concept of the total coordination has arisen that increased coordination methods to strengthen and affluent its images for the whole with wearing accessaries such as hats, gloves, sunglasses, mufflers, bags, belts and so on.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.273-289
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• 2021

This study aimed to examine the appearance of heated clothing in relation to fashion trends by analyzing constructive components of clothing using product images and actual products. A total of 91 images of domestic and foreign heated clothing products were collected, and a product analysis conducted with six parameters of item classification, namely, concept and image, silhouette, color, number of heating elements, and heating parts. In addition, an in-depth analysis was carried out with 11 products among them, while focusing on further detailed components of the design and heating system. As a result, the overall exterior design of domestic products has been changed from outdoor clothing to daily clothing reflecting the current design trend. Compared with domestic products, foreign products showed a diverse assortment and a greater number of heating regions per individual item of clothing. The current heating system commonly consists of a heating element, power source, controller board, and wires, although the existence and type of switches differed from product to product. To develop a more efficiently heated clothing to expand the market, the design, ease of use, safety, consumer preference, heating functionality, and durability should be considered. Along with design recommendations for future heated clothing, this study also provides a practical guide to the technical aspects of the design of the components of heated clothing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.115-131
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• 2023

The revolution of digital fashion continues along with the development of technology. In particular, after COVID-19, fashion design development, exhibitions, and fashion shows using the metaverse space are being actively developed. In particular, as research on 3D virtual costumes becomes active, creative ideas are needed to develop creative virtual costumes. The purpose of this study is to examine the geometric formative characteristics of constructivism in art and fashion design and to develop 3D virtual works using them. Geometric form is a logical and rational basic form that includes the order of nature as an artistic material that has been constantly studied along with the creation of mankind a long time ago, and it has become a motif of many artworks and fashion. In this paper, we studied the application of the costume design of geometric shapes according to the 3D Clo, virtual-wear production software, and understood the effect of the combination of geometric shapes on costume styling. As the formative characteristics of constructivist art, three types of overlap, asymmetry, and simplicity were derived, and the geometric form was visually simple, clear, and concise. The first work produced virtual costumes that reflected the overlapping elements of constructivism. The second costume was produced by reflecting the asymmetric formative characteristics of constructivism. The third costume was a jacket that applied the simplicity of constructivist art.