• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.203-211
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• 1993

초기 변형파(파고 또는 주파수에의 변형)의 실험이 파랑의 전개에 있어 초기 변형의 영향을 살펴보기 위해 행하여졌으며, 이로부터 초기 변형파의 파고와 주파수의 변형이 정상파의 전개에 있어서 보다 더 크고 빨리 일어남이 관찰되었다. 그러나 작은 파형경사를 가진 초기 파고변형파의 전개에 있어서는 초기에서 중기까지는 파랑의 파고와 주파수의 변형이 빠르게 일어남이 관찰되었으나 말기에는 이 변형파의 최초의 형태나 주파수로 다시 전환됨이 관찰되었다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.168-177
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• 2020

Many coastal engineering designs utilize empirical formulas containing the Equivalent Deep-water Wave Height (EDWH), which is normally given a priori. However, no studies have explicitly discussed a method for determining the EDWH and the resulting design wave heights (DEWH) under irregular wave conditions. Unfortunately, it has been the case in many design practices that the EDWH is incorrectly estimated by dividing the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position with its corresponding shoaling coefficient of regular wave. The present study reexamines the relationship between the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position and its corresponding EDWH. Then, a new procedure is proposed to facilitate the correct estimation of EDWH. In this procedure, the EDWH and DEWH are determined differently according to the wave propagation model used to estimate the SWH. For this, Goda's original method for nonlinear irregular wave deformation is extended to produce values for linear shoaling. Finally, exemplary calculations are performed to assess the possible errors caused by a misuse of the wave height calculation procedure. The relative errors with respect to the correct values could exceed 20%, potentially leading to a significant under-design of coastal or harbor structures in some cases.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.49-57
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• 2023

Since Chappelear developed a Fourier approximation method, considerable research efforts have been made. On the other hand, Fourier approximations are unsuitable for deep water waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a Fourier approximation suitable even for deep water waves and a numerical method to determine the Fourier coefficients and the wave properties. In addition, the convergence of the solution was tested in terms of its order. This paper presents a velocity potential satisfying the Laplace equation and the bottom boundary condition (BBC) with a truncated Fourier series. Two wave profiles were derived by applying the potential to the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) and the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC). A set of nonlinear equations was represented to determine the Fourier coefficients, which were derived so that the two profiles are identical at specified phases. The set of equations was solved using Newton's method. This study proved that there is a limit to the series order, i.e., the maximum series order is N=12, and that there is a height limitation of this method which is slightly lower than the Michell theory. The reason why the other Fourier approximations are not suitable for deep water waves is discussed.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.1056-1063
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• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.34-40
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• 2002

본 연구에서는 해안선 부근의 장주기파가 해안침식과 관련이 있음에 주목하며 심해파의 특성으로부터 천해역의 장주기파의 파고를 추정하기 위해 파고계 3대를 해안으로부터 외해방향의 해안종단 방향으로 일직선상에 배치하여 현장관측을 실시하고 그 결과를 분석하였다. 아울러, 장주기파의 발생기구에 관한 기존의 이론을 현장관측을 통해 검증하고, 장주기파의 발생기구를 토대로 심해파 제원과 천해역의 장주기 파고와의 관계를 검토하였다. 관측된 장주기파는 기존의 이론과 대체적으로 일치하였으며, 심해파와 장주기파 사이에는 선형적인 대응이있음을 확인하였다. 또한, 장주기파의 공간적·시간적 변화를 추가하기 위하여 각 지점별로 관측된 장주기파를 합성함으로서 장주기파의 파고를 계산하였다. 그 결과, 장주기파와 심해파 사이의 관계는 더욱 뚜렷한 경향을 나타내었으며, 양자로부터 장주기파의 추정식을 도출할 수 있었다. 따라서, 이를 이용함으로서 해당지역의 천해역에 존재하는 장주기파랑의 규모가 심해파랑의 자료로부터 예견될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.101-107
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• 2022

Dean (1965) proposed the use of the root mean square error (RMSE) in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) and kinematic free-surface boundary condition (KFSBC) as an error evaluation criterion for wave theories. There are well known wave theories with RMSE more than 1%, such as Airy theory, Stokes theory, Dean's stream function theory, Fenton's theory, and trochodial theory for deep-water waves. However, none of them can be applied for deep-water breaking waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a closed-form solution for deep-water waves with RMSE less than 1% even for breaking waves. This study is based on a previous study (Shin, 2016), and all flow fields were simplified for deep-water waves. For a closed-form solution, all Fourier series coefficients and all related parameters are presented with Newton's polynomials, which were determined by curve fitting data (Shin, 2016). For verification, a wave in Miche's limit was calculated, and, the profiles, velocities, and the accelerations were compared with those of 5^th-order Stokes theory. The results give greater velocities and acceleration than 5^th-order Stokes theory, and the wavelength depends on the wave height. The results satisfy the Laplace equation, bottom boundary condition (BBC), and KFSBC, while Stokes theory satisfies only the Laplace equation and BBC. RMSE in DFSBC less than 7.25×10^-2% was obtained. The series order of the proposed method is three, but the series order of 5^th-order Stokes theory is five. Nevertheless, this study provides less RMSE than 5^th-order Stokes theory. As a result, the method is suitable for offshore structural design.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2001년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.343-351
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 강릉 해수욕장 전면에서 20년간 관측된 파랑자료의 극치분석을 통하여 재현빈도 10, 20, 30 및 50년의 천해설계파를 도출하였다. 이들을 수산청(1988) 및 한국해양연구원(2005)에 제시된 강릉 해역에 대한 재현빈도별 심해파 조건을 경계조건으로 천해파 모델인 SWAN을 사용하여 관측지점에서의 파고를 구한 값과 비교하였다. 그 결과 이러한 기존의 심해파 조건들로 계산한 강릉 해역의 천해파고는 관측치에 비해 상당히 작게 제시되었으며 그 차이는 재현빈도의 증가에 따라 커지는 것을 확인하였다. 한국해양연구원은 이전보다 상세한 격자와 WAM 모델을 사용하여 2004년 1월부터 2008년 8월까지의 역추산 자료를 생성하였으며, 이를 천해역의 관측 자료와 비교한 결과 1979~2003년의 자료에 비해 동계 폭풍파의 재현성이 크게 향상되었음을 확인하였다. 앞으로 2004년 이전에 대해서도 상세 격자와 WAM 모델을 사용한 역추산 자료의 생성 및 이를 사용한 심해파의 보완 작업이 필요한 것으로 사료된다.

• Wind and Structures
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.193-211
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• 2013

This paper presents results from a wind tunnel study that examined the drag coefficient and wind flow over an asymmetric wave train immersed in turbulent boundary layer flow. The modeled wavy surface consisted of eight replicas of a statistically-valid hurricane-generated wave, located near the coast in the shoaling wave region. For an aerodynamically rough model surface, the air flow remained attached and a pronounced speed-up region was evident over the wave crest. A wavelength-averaged drag coefficient was determined using the wind profile method, common to both field and laboratory settings. It was found that the drag coefficient was approximately 50% higher than values obtained in deep water hurricane conditions. This study suggests that nearshore wave drag is markedly higher than over deep water waves of similar size, and provides the groundwork for assessing the impact of nearshore wave conditions on storm surge modeling and coastal wind engineering.

• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.193-201
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• 1993

심해 정상파의 불안정성에 관한 실험 연구로부터, 파형경사 0.19에서 0.25 사이에서는 2차원적인 Benjamin-Feir 형태의 불안정성과 쇄파가 관찰되었으며, 파형경사가 이보다 큰 0.31 이상에서는 3차원적인 불안정성과 쇄파가 관찰되었다. 또한 이 실험에서 같은 파형 경사를 가진 2 가지 종류의 파랑이 실험, 관찰되었는데, 여기에서 작은 파고를 가진 짧은 파랑은 높은 파고를 가진 긴 파랑보다 더 불안정하고 그리고 보다 더 빨리 쇄파됨이 관찰되었다.