• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.86-97
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• 2015

"The Jayeon Madang Development Project("JMDP")" is a project being promoted by the Ministry of Environment to create a cultural space and a natural rest area within the city. Abuksan, located at Abuksan in Gyeongsangnam-do Miryang-si Naeil-dong, has suffered a substantial amount of environmental degradation over time, so the need for ecological restoration made it a natural choice for the location of the JMDP's site. The purpose of this study is to examine ecological restoration design strategies used in Abuksan as part of the JMDP using system dynamics. The national archery center, hole, and arable land sites are key restoration areas in Abuksan that have faced with ecological problems. In this study, we identified the status of each site, determined key strategies being implemented, and designed based on the strategies implemented up to this point for solving problems associated with each sites through the use of causal loop diagrams. The results of the causal loop diagram analysis are as follows. The national archery center site was designed around strategies including planting green manure crops and introducing hugelkultur to reduce soil acidification and green network degradation. The hole site was designed as a constructed wetland based on the emergence of hygropreference vegetation, hydrated by rainwater collected at the bottom of hole, ecological and cultural benefits of such an environment. The arable land site restoration design was built around planting native vegetation on one part of the arable land site after soil quality improved and around restoration of grassland and a dry wetland on the other part of the site to reduce soil acidification, erosion, and green network degradation. This study is a significant attempt to apply principles of system dynamics to ecological restoration by providing the design strategies using comprehension of some problems in the ecosystem feedback loops, which has not been used before in general design processes for ecological restoration.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.10-20
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• 2020

This study aims to analyze the developed characteristics of the knowledge and information of gardens through garden or flowering plant books compiled in the 15th and 19th centuries of Joseon Dynasty. Diachronically analysis of the garden or flowering plant books classified the characteristics in which knowledge and information about gardens are developed by the period, and looked at the factors. The results are as follows; First, the relationship between the authors who compiled the garden or flowering plant books had similar characteristics to the genealogy of Realist School of Confucianism(實學) in the Joseon Dynasty. Kang, Hee-An's practical features influenced later realist school of confucianism scholars. Lee, Su-Gwang has accumulated knowledge of the garden through his experience of traveling the diplomatic envoy to China. Since then, Hong Man-sun's ideology has been related to Charles, a member of the Southerners. Seo Yu-gu was also able to accept Realist School of Confucianism in an integrated way through the Jungnong school's theory and interaction with the Jungsang school. Ryu, Jung-Lim's relationship with the Jungnong school emerged as he added to the 『Jeungbosanrimgyeongje(增補山林經濟)』. Second, the 『Yanghwasorok(養花小錄)』, 『Jibongyuseol(芝峯類說)』 「Hwuimok(卉木)」, 『Hangjeongrok(閑情錄)』, 『Sanrimgyeongje(山林經濟)』 「Yanghwa(養花)」, 『Jeungbosanrimgyeongje(增補山林經濟)』 「Yanghwa(養花)」, 『Hwaamsurok(花庵隨錄)』 and 『Imwongyeongjeji(林園經濟志)』 「Yewonji(藝畹志)」 contain garden plant characteristics, cultivation methods, and management methods. The 『Imwongyeongjeji(林園經濟志)』 「Seomyongji(贍用志)」, 「Iunji(怡雲志)」, 「Sangtaekji(相宅志)」 contain details on the location selection of gardens, the layout of facilities, how to create them and materials. The description of these garden or flowering plant books was found to be the most common introduction with 55 percent, followed by methodologies(42.8%), the Lichi Theory(理氣論, 15.5%), the classification(12.4%), and the convention(1.9%). Third, based on the importance of knowledge and information on gardens, the garden or flowering plant books related to the period were classified as early period, including 『Yanghwasorok(養花小錄)』, 『Jibongyuseol(芝峯類說)』 which were compiled before the 17th century. The 18th-century compiled 『Sanrimgyeongje(山林經濟)』 and 『Jeungbosanrimgyeongje(增補山林經濟)』 were classified as middle period, and the 19th-century compilation of 『Imwongyeongjeji(林園經濟志)』 was classified as late period. The garden or flowering plant books were cited the contents of ancient Chinese books, the author's experiences and opinions contained in the preceding period in later garden books. And the reinforcement of garden knowledge was made to reflect the agricultural technology and expertise developed at the time of writing. Fourth, based on analysis of the development and acceptance of knowledge information in garden by period, In the early period was dealing with floriculture as a way to explore the logic of things. Later, in the 18th century, a vast influx of garden knowledge information came from China. Among scholars, they secured justification for garden creation as part of various knowledge-seeking activities, which expanded their expertise in gardens. In response to the trend of gardening in the 19th century, professional books were written based on knowledge and information on gardens that were collected in the past, and systems were established such as the collection and management of garden plants, construction methods, enjoying methods, and self-realization.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.114-131
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• 2014

The Portrait of Yang Zhuxi(楊竹西小像) at the Palace Museum in Beijing holds important significance as one of the rare portraits from Yuan Period and as a painting with a definite year of creation in 1363. It is also noteworthy in that it is the only remaining work of Wang Yi(王繹), who was one of the critical portrait painters during the second half of Yuan Period and the author of Xiexiang Mijue(寫像秘訣), the first book on the portrait theories, that it was created in conjunction with Ni Zan(倪瓚), one of the utmost landscape painters of the times, and that it was an early case of landscape and figure painting-format portraits. The figure in Portrait of Yang Zhuxi was originally known as Yang Wu(楊瑀), a high official during Yuan Period, but it was a misunderstanding on the part of Li Rihua(李日華), a literary figure from Ming Dynasty. The actual model was Yang Qian(楊謙), a reclusive literary figure in the Songjiang(松江) region. Yang Qian is estimated as one of the central figures with a high reputation in the literary community of Jiangnan those days. Portrait of Yang Zhuxi was depicted by borrowing the icon of such hermits as Su Shih(蘇軾), which seems like a proper choice to express Yang Zhuxi, a reclusive literary figure. Furthermore, the rocks and pine trees described by Ni Zan reinforced the significance of the portrait through their traditional symbolism of man of virtue and man of letters, respectively. Portrait of Yang Zhuxi used the Baimiao Manner(白描法), thus being differentiated from other portraits from the same period. Even though there is no coloring in the painting, it boasts more excellent realism than colored portraits. It expressed the body with the graceful and controlled Li Gonglin(李公麟) and Zhao Mengfu(趙孟?) style Baimiao Manner, raising its dignity further. In terms of functions, Portrait of Yang Zhuxi is strongly characterized by the appreciative function unlike other portraits focused on the ceremonial function. Being created to be viewed and appreciated by the model himself and his friends, the portrait was very significant to promote their friendship. However, there was a great intention to reflect the emotions of the model himself and his friends in the painting beyond the simple appreciation level.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.4-25
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• 2011

This study was performed in 2010 to examine the flora and vegetation structure and chemical characteristics of soil in the growing community of Abeliophyllum distichum, located in the Byeonsanbando National Park. This Abeliophyllum distichum community has more individual numbers in Cheongrim-ni and Jungkye-ri, Byeonsan-myeon, and Buan-gun area, which is designated as a Natural Monument (No. 370), and also where the habitat conditions for Abeliophyllum distichum is more favorable. The authors recorded 100 taxa with 45 families, 82 genus, 93 species, 4 varieties, and 3 forms. Among them, species such as Abeliophyllum distichum (critically endangered), Asarum maculatum (near threatened) and Chionanthus retusa (near threatened), which are categorized as rare plants, were recorded. According to the list of Korean endemic plants, 4 taxa, particularly Philadelphus schrenckii, Abeliophyllum distichum, Weigela subsessilis, and Lonicera subsessili, were recorded. The community of Abeliophyllum distichum is located in the northwest slope of Baekcheon watershed and the community is comprised of healthy soil. The community structure was classified into three: the Castanea crenata community, Zelkova serrata community, and Quercus serrata community. The Castanea crenata community is composed of the Cornus walteri, Platycarya strobilacea, Zelkova serrata, Rhamnella frangulioides, arranged in terms of importance percentage. The Zelkova serrata community is composed of Celtis sinensis, Quercus aliena, Styrax japonica, and Acer pseudo-sieboldianum, also according to importance percentage. As for the Quercus serrata community, it is composed of Quercus variabilis, Castanea crenata, and Prunus sargentii, also arranged in terms of importance percentage. The importance percentage of Abeliophyllum distichum is 6.6% in the Castanea crenata community, 5.6% in the Zelkova serrata community and 5.1% in the Quercus serrata community. Moreover, in order of chemical characteristics of soil pH, electrical conductivity, available phosphoric, organic matter, and exchangeable cation (K, Ca, Mg) are analyzed. The No. 3 site was relatively higher than other districts of the same chemical characteristics of soil.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study was conducted to analyze the conservation status by diagnostical methology for the front wall of Jungjeongdang area of Dodong-Seowon. The study was carried out as photogrammetry and mapping - investigation of materials and conservation status - analysis and evaluation of conservation status. The results are as follows. First, in the case of photogrammetry, each photograph was took in superposition, and the distortions of the photographs were corrected and synthesized. Based on this, actual survey drawings of the wall were prepared. Second, in case of material and conservation status, the wall is in the form of Wapyeondam and the material of the head part are tile, mud and lime, and the material of the body part are mud and tile. The mud was mixed with gravel, sand and straw. At the base part, amorphous natural stones and mud were used. The remarkable damage that appears on the wall is erosion of the base part, and some disintegration appears in the body part. There is a biological patina on the head and the base, and vegetation such as lichen is concentrated on the partial body. There was superficial deposit in the head part, and some tiles were broken or lost. Deep fissures are intensively located in some part of the eastern wall. Third, in the case of analysis and evaluation of the conservation status, it is considered that by the erosion of the foundation part and the disintegration of the body part, there is a possibility that physical damage will continue to be applied to the wall, so immediate action is necessary. The distribution of biological patina and vegetation does not appear to cause great problems in the wall, but it is necessary to reduce it in view of aesthetic problems. A cracked or missing tile would need to be replaced, and deep cracks in the eastern wall appear to have been caused by subsidence, and reinforcement of the underground is necessary to prevent further damage.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.25-38
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• 2020

For the purpose of recording Folk House Garden, this study was to review the historical value, location, space composition, Placememnt of the Building, garden composition, and management status of Folk House Garden designated as a cultural asset in Jeolla-do and to promote continuous maintenance and preservation in the future and enhance its value. The results of the study are as follows. First, most of them have been influenced by the trend of the times, such as the creation of a modern private garden and the spread of agricultural and commercial development through the garden components influenced by the royal, Japanese, and Western styles. Second, there are differences in the spatial composition of private households and the way they handle sponsorship, depending on the geographical location. When the geographical features were divided into flat and sloping areas, private houses located on flat land were divided into walls, walls were placed around the support area, and flower systems and stone blocks were created. The private houses located on the slope were divided into two to three tiers of space, and the wooden plant, flower bed, and stone bed were naturally connected to the background forest without creating a wall at the rear hill. Third, the size of the house and the elements of the garden have been partially destroyed, damaged, and changed, and if there is a lack of records of the change process, there is a limit to the drawing floor plan. There were many buildings and garden components that were lost or damaged due to changes in the trend and demand of the times, and some of them without records had to rely on the memory of owners and managers. Fourth, the species in Warm Temperate Zone, which reflects the climatic characteristics of Jeolla-do, was produced, and many of the exotic species, not traditional ones, were introduced. Fifth, fine-grained tree management standards are needed to prepare for changes in spatial function and plant species considering modern convenience.

• Korean Journal of Environment and Ecology
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.102-111
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• 2022

Among protected areas, National Parks are rich in biodiversity, and the benefits of ecosystem services provided to human are higher than the others. Ecosystem service evaluation is being used to manage the value of national parks based on objective and scientific data. Ecosystem services are classified into four services: supporting, provisioning, regulating and cultural. The purpose of this study is to evaluate habitat quality among supporting services. Habitat Quality Model of InVEST was used to analyze. The coefficients of sensitivity and habitat initial value were reset by reflecting prior studies and the actual conditions of protected areas. Habitat quality of 21 national parks except Hallasan National Park was analyzed and mapped. The value of habitat quality was evaluated to be between 0 and 1, and the closer it is to 1, the more natural it is. As a result of habitat quality analysis, Seoraksan and Taebaeksan National Parks (0.90), Jirisan and Odaesan National Parks (0.89), and Sobaeksan National Park (0.88) were found to be the highest in the order. As a result of comparing the area and habitat quality of 18 national parks except for coastal-marine national parks, the larger the area, the higher the overall habitat quality. Comparing the value of habitat quality of each zone, the value of habitat quality was high in the order of the park nature preservation zone, the park nature environmental zone, the park cultural heritage zone, and the park village zone. Considering both the analysis of habitat quality and the legal regulations for each zone of use, it is judged that the more artificial acts are restricted, the higher the habitat quality. This study is meaningful in analyzing habitat quality of 21 National Parks by readjusting the parameters according to the situation of protected areas in Korea. It is expected to be easy to intuitively understand through accurate data and mapping, and will be useful in making policy decisions regarding the development and preservation of protected areas in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.40-52
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• 2016

Buyongjeong, a pavilion in the Rear Garden of Changdeok Palace, was appointed as Treasure No. 1763 on March 2, 2012, by the South Korea government since it shows significant symmetry and proportion on its unique planar shape, spatial configuration, building decoration, and so forth. However, the designation of Treasure selection was mainly evaluated by concrete science, in that the selection has not clearly articulated how and why Buoungjeong was constructed as a present unique form. Therefore, this study aims to clarify the identity of Buyongjeong at the time of construction by considering its historical, ideological, philosophical background and building intention. Summary are as follows: First, Construction backgrounds and characters of Buyongjeong: Right after the enthronement, King Jeongjo had founded Kyujanggak(奎章閣), and sponsored civil ministers who were elected by the national examination, as a part of political reform. In addition, he established his own political system by respecting "Kaksin(閣臣)", Kyujanggak's officials as much as "Kain(家人)", internal family members. King Jeongjo's aggressive political reform finally enabled King's lieges to visit King's Rear Garden. In the reign of King Jeongjo's 16th year(1792), Naekaksangjohoe(內閣賞釣會) based on "Kaksin" was officially launched and the Rear Garden visitation became a regular meeting. The Rear Garden visitation consisted of "Sanghwajoeoyeon(賞花釣魚宴)" - enjoying flowers and fishing, and activities of "Nanjeongsugye". Afterward, it eventually became a huge national event since high rank government officials participated the event. King Jeongjo shared the cultural activities with government officials together to Buyongjeong as a place to fulfill his royal politics. Second, The geographical location and spatial characteristics of Buyongjeong: On the enthronement of King Jeongjo(1776), he renovated Taeksujae. Above all, aligning and linking Gaeyuwa - Taeksujae - a cicular island - Eosumun - Kyujangkak along with the construction axis is an evidence for King Jeongjo to determine how the current Kyujangkak zone was prepared and designed to fulfill King Jeonjo's political ideals. In 17th year(1793) of the reign of King Jeongjo, Taeksujae, originally a square shaped pavilion, was modified and expanded with ranks to provide a place to get along with the King and officials. The northern part of Buyongjeong, placed on pond, was designed for the King's place and constructed one rank higher than others. Discernment on windows and doors were made with "Ajasal" - a special pattern for the King. The western and eastern parts were for government officials. The center part was prepared for a place where government officials were granted an audience with the King, who was located in the nortern part of Buyongjeong. Government officials from the western and eastern parts of Buyongjeong, could enter the central part of the Buyongjeong from the southern part by detouring the corner of Buyongjeong. After all, Buyongjeong is a specially designed garden building, which was constructed to be a royal palace utilizing its minimal space. Third, Cultural Values of Buyongjeong: The Buyongjeong area exhibits a trait that it had been continuously developed and it had reflected complex King's private garden cultures from King Sejo, Injo, Hyunjong, Sukjong, Jeongjo and so forth. In particular, King Jeongjo had succeded physical, social and imaginary environments established by former kings and invited their government officials for his royal politics. As a central place for his royal politics, King Jeongjo completed Buyongjeong. Therefore, the value of Buyongjeong, as a garden building reflecting permanency of the Joseon Dynasty, can be highly evaluated. In addition, as it reflects Confucianism in the pavilion - represented by distinguishing hierarchical ranks, it is a unique example to exhibit its distinctiveness in a royal garden.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.72-105
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• 2011

This study explores the value of the Dicentra spectabilis community as a nature reserve in provincial forests at San 1-2, Daea-ri, Dongsang-myeon, Wanju-gun, Jellabuk-do, also known as Gamakgol, while defining the appropriateness of its living environment and eventually providing basic information to protect this area. For these reasons, we investigated 'morphological and biological features of Dicentra spectabilis' and the 'present situation and problems of designing a herbaceous nature reserve in Korea.' Furthermore, we researched and analyzed the solar, soil and vegetation condition here through a field study in order to comprehend its nature reserve value. The result is as follows. According to the analytic result for information on the domestic wild Dicentra spectabilis community, it is evenly spread throughout mountainous areas, and there is one particularly outstanding in size in Wanju Gamakgol. Upon the findings from literature and the field study about its dispersion, Gamakgol has been discovered as an ideal district for Dicentra spectabilis since it meets all the conditions this plant requires to grow vigorously, such as a quasi-high altitude and rich precipitation during its period of active growth duration in May. Dicentra spectabilis grows in rocky soil ranging from 300~375m above sea level, 344.5m on average, towards the north, northwest and dominantly in the northeast. The mean inclination degree is $19.5^{\circ}$. Also, upon findings from analyzing solar conditions, the average light intensity during its growth duration, from Apr. to Aug., is 30,810lux on average and it tends to increase, as it gets closer to the end. This plant requires around 14,000~18,000lux while growing, but once bloomed, fruits develop regardless of the degree of brightness. The soil pH has shown a slight difference between the topsoil, at 5.2~6.1, and subsoil, at 5.2~6.2. Its mean pH is 5.54 for topsoil and 5.58 for subsoil. These results are very typical for Dicentra spectabilis to grow in, and other comparative areas also present similar conditions. Given the facts, the character of the soil in Gamakgol has been evaluated to have high stability. Analysis of its vegetation environment shows a wide variation of taxa numbering from 13 to 52 depending on area. The total number of taxa is 126 and they are a homogenous group while showing a variety of species as well. The Dicentra spectabilis community in the Daea-ri Arboretum is an herbaceous community consisting of dominantly Dicentra spectabilis, Cardamine leucantha, Boehmeria tricuspi and Impatiens textori while having many differential species such as Impatiens textori, Pueraria thunbergiana, Rubus crataegifolius vs Staphylea bumalda, Securinega suffruticosa, and Actinidia polygama. It suggests that it is a typical subcolony divided by topographic features and soil humidity. Considering the above results on a comprehensive level, this area is an excellent habitat for wild Dicentra spectabilis providing beautiful viewing enjoyment. Additionally, it is the largest wild colony of Dicentra spectabilis in Korea whose climate, topography, soil conditions and vegetation environment can secure sustainability as a wild habitat of Dicentra spectabilis. Therefore, We have determined that the Gamakgol community should be re-examined as natural asset owing to its established habitat conditions and sustainability.