• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.318-339
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• 1994

U.S. had given large amount of cotton to Korea as food aid program since 1945. This cotton aid had negative impact on cotton culture in Korean agriculture. Korean government used counterparts funds (sale proceeds of food aid) not for investment to agriculture sector, but for military budgets. And food aid on program type had influenced general economic policies, which neglected agricultural sector too. Anti-agricultural policy which was helped by U.S. food aid, had caused cotton cultivator an economic loss. So this economic loss had made many farmers abandon cotton culture. But in our times, cotton is cultivated for the purpose of domestic consumption in a few rural villages. The purposes of this study are 1) to analyze the process of spatial reduction of cotton culture since 1945 in regional contexts in Korea, and 2) to identify the function and meaning of cotton culture which does not pay off in agricultural region. Materials for acreage of cotton culture are acquired through the agricultural statistical year book(1952-1989) and census. To clarify the meanings of cotton culture, field survey are conducted in a rural village which is identified as only one where cotton was cultivated in 1993. In these contexts, this study has come to the following conclusions. In the period of under the rule of Japanese Imperialism (1910-1945), G. arboreum, species of cotton which was traditionally cultivated since 1364, had been driven out. And G. hirustun species, which is suitable for the production of highly qualified textile, has been hierarchically diffused by policy. In these period, regional structure of Korean agriculture was reorganized for the provision with food to Japan. Crops leading this dependent spatial structure were rice and cotton. So agricultural region, specialized with cotton, were distributed in the hinterland of the area which is specialized with rice. U.S. cotton aid to Korea began in 1947. U.S. took an interest in agricultural export because of her domestic surplus of cotton. Cotton aid is one mechanism by which U.S government developed agricultural market in recipient countries, Specially in the exchange rates, up-valuation of won to the U.S. dollars made domestic cotton more expensive than cotton imported, Production cost of domestic cotton is higher than Government's purchasing price of cotton which was also more expensive than price of cotton imported. Korean farmer could not help abandoning the cultivation of cotton, and this gave rise to spatial reduction of cotton culture. Spatially, cotton culture was abandoned in early stage of reduction in regions where stand at a disadvantage climatically, and in next stage in regions where other up-land crops which paid off in urban market, eg, fruits, could be cultivated. In the stage of extinction, cotton was cultivated only in area where G. hirustun species was originated in Korean peninsula. This region is not only suitable climatically for cotton culture, but is far away from urban market. Use of cotton produced is not for spinning, but for fillings of comforter. The main purpose of cotton culture in rural village is not for cotton yields, but for increase of production of seasame, which is grown together with cotton as mixed crops. Cotton product are used for domestic consumption and sold out to gin house. Though cotton culture is not paid off, farmer wanted to cultivate continuously for the cultural purpose, and they wanted the cotton culture promotion policy with the goverment subsidy.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.2 s.2
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• pp.47-54
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate a specific character on products of American-cotton(Kobong) with cultivated in Sinbong-dong, Sangju City from 1997 to 2003 years. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The Kobong cotton of producted in Sangju city was superior in quality than Korean-cotton. 2. The cotton producted in 1998, 2002 and 2003 was inferior in quality than the anther producted cotton. The reasons was a heavy rain at 1998, Rusa typhoon at 2002 and Maemi typhoon at 2003 in sangju city. But Kobong-cotton was superior in quality than the Korean-cotton. Since it is so, Kobong(New improved variety of American-cotton) was superior in quality than the another kinds(Korean-cotton) from producted of cotton fibers

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.275-279
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate a specific character on products of Korean cotton and American cotton with cultivated in sangju city, Korea. The results of this study were as follows: Productivity of American cotton was nine times higher than those of Korean cotton. Spinning coefficient index (SCI: 140), strength (32.6 g/tex), fiber length (1.12 inch), uniformity index (83.4%), short fiber index (6.4), color grade (21) of American cotton was superior than SCI (122), strength (27.7 g/tex), fiber length (1.02 inch), uniformity index(81.1 %), short fiber index (10.6), color grade (23) of Korean cotton. Microaire (3.5), elongation (6.9%) of Korean cotton was superior than American cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2014

This study examined the dyeability, color fastness and functionality of cotton fabrics dyed with residual parts of cultivated Pteridium aquilinum. UV-Vis absorption spectrum, TLC and FT-IR spectra analysis showed that colorants of Pteridium aquilinum are a mixture of pyrogallol tannin and catechol tannin. Optimum dyeing conditions was confirmed colorant concentration of 500% at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness followed to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light as 4-5, 5, 4-5(acidic), 3-4(alkaline) and 2, respectively. Deodorization rates of ammonia($NH_3$) and acetic acid ($CH_3COOH$) were analyzed 88.8% and 78.0%. UV protection rate was 94.2% of UV-A and 96.8% of UV-B. UV protection factor(UPF) was 27. Therefore residual parts of cultivated Pteridium aquilinum could be used for a new functional colorant.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-4
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• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.15-23
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• 2003

Chestnut trees have been used as a dyeing material, which are grow naturally, are cultivated all the area of Korea. So, there is abundant amount of the materials and they have better colorfastness than other natural dyeing materials. But chestnut husk extract is good at silk and wool fabrics, not cotton fabrics. That's why many methods using chestnut extraction for dyeing are being studied. But most of them depend on treatment method with chemical material which doesn't fit with the aim, using natural materials. Therefore in this research, we used protein pre-treatment method which is dyeing chestnut husk extract after treating at cotton fabrics with bean sap. And we studied the effect of dyeability of chestnut husk extract to cotton fabrics. As a result of pre-treatment of bean sap at cotton fabrics, dyeability was increased. Besides laundering fastness, dry cleaning fastness, perspiration fastness and light fastness were almost increased.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.28
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• pp.123-153
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• 2011

In Asia, when cotton and cotton fabrics cultivated and produced in India of Southern Asia had spread to the whole Asia area by land and by sea, the Cotton Road and cotton fabric cultural area could be formed. In Korea, the traditional cotton (Gossypium arboreum) brought by Moon Ik-Jeom in 1363 was cultivated and then the Upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) brought via Japan could be produced from 1904. Especially, Gwangju/Jeonnam was the most active place in producing traditional cotton, and eventually became the center of cotton cultivation and fabric production after bringing in Upland cotton. In order to collect and record the cotton cultural resources in the broad area, the Cultural Resources Set, classified its component parts should be made first and then the collecting objects should be investigated. The collecting areas are selected based on the spreading paths and the regional significance of cotton. Since its difficulty of collecting the relevant resources from all of the places in Asia, it should be planned to share the resources through exchanges and cooperation among private, institution and organization. The relevant experts from the various fields should participate in the interdisciplinary researches which are necessary for collecting and recording of wide area cultural resources. Considering the collecting limitation of genuine relics, the digital archives should be established and then offered through a web site that everyone can use them freely by remote. It also needs to plan to display on and off-line for users to perceive the similarity, difference and interconnections of the resources with ease.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 1979

The damaging effects of hemp and cotton by Aspergillus sp, and penicillum sp, which grow successfully on cotton were studied. The damages were measured after cultivated at $30^{\circ}C$ for 10 days the fabrics with Aspergillus sp,and Penicillum sp, respectically, in various conditions. The effects of cell-free extract produced from fungus were also investigated. The results of obtained could be summeried as follows : 1) Cultivation of fungi on fibre in malt extract agar was better than that in czapeck agar. 2) Tnsile strength of the fabrics was deteriortated most easily in czapeak agar at the rae of 49.8%. 3)Growth of fungi was promoted by starching the fibre but tensile strength was felled -off , however, by starching, propagation of fungi was superior on cotton to on hemp. 4) In case of hemp, propagation of fungi was inferior to in case of cotton but the tensile strength was deteriorated at the rate of 26-33%. 5) In case of starched hemp, the tensile strength was deteriorated Slowly in first 8 days, but after 8 days there was no particular change. There was no particular change of tensile strength by starching in cotton. 6) It seemed that a damage of fibre was accelerated because the fungus grow not only on the surface of fabrics but also the inner of those. 7) By treatment of cell-free produced form fungi, the tensile strength of hemp falled off at the rate of 50-65% in first 24 hours, since then the tensile strength was deteriorated slowly for 4 days, but after incubation for 4 days was not changed. But the tensile strength of cotton by cell-free extracts was not effected.