• 대한지리학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.318-339
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• 1994

본 연구는 우리나라에서 거의 소멸된 면화재배의 지역적인 축소 과정을 확인하고, 현재 농촌에서 이루어지는 면화재배의 의미를 파악하였다. 해방 이후 우리나라의 면방직 공 업은 원면도입으로 해외 원료 의존형 산업이 되었다. 환율정책으로 국내면 가격이 미국산 원조면보다 비싸지고, 정부의 식량증산 위주의 농업정책, 유통구조 등으로 인해 국내면의 재 배면적이 감소되기 시작하였다. 국내 면 재배 면적 감소의 지역적인 과정은 일차적으로 기 후조건이 면화재배에 불리한 지역에서 먼저 나타나 식량 밭작물로 대체되었고, 이후 재배 유인력이 더욱 약해짐에 따라 재배 발원지를 제외한 다른 지역에서는 거의 소멸되고 있었 다. 현재 농촌에서 면화는 이불솜 을 위한 자가 소비용, 식용, 약용외에 다른 작물의 생산성 을 높이기 위한 부작물로서 재배되고 있음이 확인되었다. 재배방법은 종래와 큰 차이가 없 이 행해지고 있었으며 노동집약적으로 생산되고 있다. 농민의 면화에 대한 애착이 강하고, 국내면으로 만든 이불솜을 선호하는 소비자들의 수요가 아직 있음이 확인되어, 정부의 정책 적인 배려와 함께 시장이 확보될 경우 국내면이 앞으로도 재배될 수 있는 가능성을 보여주 고 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.47-54
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate a specific character on products of American-cotton(Kobong) with cultivated in Sinbong-dong, Sangju City from 1997 to 2003 years. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The Kobong cotton of producted in Sangju city was superior in quality than Korean-cotton. 2. The cotton producted in 1998, 2002 and 2003 was inferior in quality than the anther producted cotton. The reasons was a heavy rain at 1998, Rusa typhoon at 2002 and Maemi typhoon at 2003 in sangju city. But Kobong-cotton was superior in quality than the Korean-cotton. Since it is so, Kobong(New improved variety of American-cotton) was superior in quality than the another kinds(Korean-cotton) from producted of cotton fibers

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.275-279
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate a specific character on products of Korean cotton and American cotton with cultivated in sangju city, Korea. The results of this study were as follows: Productivity of American cotton was nine times higher than those of Korean cotton. Spinning coefficient index (SCI: 140), strength (32.6 g/tex), fiber length (1.12 inch), uniformity index (83.4%), short fiber index (6.4), color grade (21) of American cotton was superior than SCI (122), strength (27.7 g/tex), fiber length (1.02 inch), uniformity index(81.1 %), short fiber index (10.6), color grade (23) of Korean cotton. Microaire (3.5), elongation (6.9%) of Korean cotton was superior than American cotton.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.53-62
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• 2014

This study examined the dyeability, color fastness and functionality of cotton fabrics dyed with residual parts of cultivated Pteridium aquilinum. UV-Vis absorption spectrum, TLC and FT-IR spectra analysis showed that colorants of Pteridium aquilinum are a mixture of pyrogallol tannin and catechol tannin. Optimum dyeing conditions was confirmed colorant concentration of 500% at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness followed to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light as 4-5, 5, 4-5(acidic), 3-4(alkaline) and 2, respectively. Deodorization rates of ammonia($NH_3$) and acetic acid ($CH_3COOH$) were analyzed 88.8% and 78.0%. UV protection rate was 94.2% of UV-A and 96.8% of UV-B. UV protection factor(UPF) was 27. Therefore residual parts of cultivated Pteridium aquilinum could be used for a new functional colorant.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.1-4
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• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2003

Chestnut trees have been used as a dyeing material, which are grow naturally, are cultivated all the area of Korea. So, there is abundant amount of the materials and they have better colorfastness than other natural dyeing materials. But chestnut husk extract is good at silk and wool fabrics, not cotton fabrics. That's why many methods using chestnut extraction for dyeing are being studied. But most of them depend on treatment method with chemical material which doesn't fit with the aim, using natural materials. Therefore in this research, we used protein pre-treatment method which is dyeing chestnut husk extract after treating at cotton fabrics with bean sap. And we studied the effect of dyeability of chestnut husk extract to cotton fabrics. As a result of pre-treatment of bean sap at cotton fabrics, dyeability was increased. Besides laundering fastness, dry cleaning fastness, perspiration fastness and light fastness were almost increased.

• 기록학연구
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• 제28호
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• pp.123-153
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• 2011

아시아에서는 기원전부터 남아시아의 인도에서 재배 생산한 목화와 면직물이 아시아 전 권역으로 육로와 해로를 통해 전파됨으로써 목화길과 면문화권이 형성되었다. 우리나라에서는 1363년 문익점이 중국에서 들여온 재래면을 재배하다가 1904년부터 일본을 통해 들어온 육지면을 재배하였다. 특히 광주 전남은 조선시대까지 재래면 생산이 가장 활발한 지역이었고, 육지면 도입 후에는 목화 재배와 면직물 생산의 중심지였다. 이처럼 넓은 지역을 대상으로 목화문화자원을 수집 기록하기 위해서는 먼저 그 구성 요소들을 분류한 문화자원세트를 만들고 그에 따라 수집할 객체를 조사한다. 수집 대상 지역은 전파 경로와 목화에 관해 지역이 갖는 의미를 토대로 선정한다. 아시아 전체에서 관련 자원을 직접 수집하기 어려우므로 자료를 소장하고 있는 개인 기관 단체와의 교류 협력을 통해 자원을 공유하는 방안을 마련해야 한다. 광역 문화자원의 수집 기록에 필요한 학제간 연구를 위해 다양한 분야의 관련 전문가를 적극 활용하여야 한다. 실제 유물 수집의 한계를 고려하여 디지털 형태의 자료를 위주로 아카이브를 구축하고 이를 누구나 원격으로 향유 활용할 수 있도록 웹을 통해 제공하여야 한다. 사용자가 자원들의 유사와 차이, 상호간의 맥락을 이해할 수 있도록 온 오프라인에서 비교 전시하는 방법을 마련하여야 한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.1-9
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• 1979

The damaging effects of hemp and cotton by Aspergillus sp, and penicillum sp, which grow successfully on cotton were studied. The damages were measured after cultivated at $30^{\circ}C$ for 10 days the fabrics with Aspergillus sp,and Penicillum sp, respectically, in various conditions. The effects of cell-free extract produced from fungus were also investigated. The results of obtained could be summeried as follows : 1) Cultivation of fungi on fibre in malt extract agar was better than that in czapeck agar. 2) Tnsile strength of the fabrics was deteriortated most easily in czapeak agar at the rae of 49.8%. 3)Growth of fungi was promoted by starching the fibre but tensile strength was felled -off , however, by starching, propagation of fungi was superior on cotton to on hemp. 4) In case of hemp, propagation of fungi was inferior to in case of cotton but the tensile strength was deteriorated at the rate of 26-33%. 5) In case of starched hemp, the tensile strength was deteriorated Slowly in first 8 days, but after 8 days there was no particular change. There was no particular change of tensile strength by starching in cotton. 6) It seemed that a damage of fibre was accelerated because the fungus grow not only on the surface of fabrics but also the inner of those. 7) By treatment of cell-free produced form fungi, the tensile strength of hemp falled off at the rate of 50-65% in first 24 hours, since then the tensile strength was deteriorated slowly for 4 days, but after incubation for 4 days was not changed. But the tensile strength of cotton by cell-free extracts was not effected.