• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.637-647
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• 2004

The goal of this study was to develop bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists. To investigate the pattern of bicycle apparel in Korea, anthropometric data were collected using direct and indirect measurements from October 2002 to July 2003. Three female subjects were recruited from forty measured women cyclists for pilot test. The differences between the responses of prototype bicycle apparel and existing bicycle apparel were compared using mean, standard deviation and t-test. The outfits for cyclists was completed through the three times rectification. Based on the results from the fit and appearance testing, I concluded as follows: The mean value of the center back length, back width, sleeve out-seam, bust ＆ thigh circumference, and weight of cyclists are more than the mean value of the non-cyclists. The result of fit evaluation by judges shows that there is a significant differences in the response to the shoulder, collar, movement of arms of jersey and movement of upper legs, crotch fit and general fit of shots. The result of appearance test between two outfits is no differences the mean value except the waist ease when sitting on cycle. Prototype bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists developed and tested in this study have the potential to increase field performance and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.853-872
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• 2023

This study analyzed the body shape of adult women aged 20 to 59 with a waist and hip circumference difference of 22.00 cm or more to characterize the lower body shape of women with slender waist. The researchers analyzed the data using SPSS 26.0. Among the lower body measurements of women with slender waists, the waist circumference was 70.79 cm and the hip circumference was 95.25 cm, with a difference of 24.56 cm between the waist and hip circumferences. We categorized the components of a slender waist body type into four factors: lower body horizontal, lower body vertical, lower calf horizontal, and hip and crotch length. We categorized women with slender waists into four body types: slender long crane legs, short thick lamb legs, short thin ladder legs, and thick long pole legs. In their twenties, many people have slender, long-legged lower body, but as they age, they are more likely to have thicker lower bodies and short, thin ankles. Body types with slender waist had larger proportions of abdominal and hip dimensions in the width, circumference, and thickness categories based on waist dimensions than those with average or thick waists.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.821-833
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• 2012

This study surveys preferred style and fit problems according to stature groups like short, medium, and tall to offer information to upgrade the clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group. For this purpose, the questionnaire was accomplished, and the respondents were 18-59 year old women divided into 3 stature groups. The 6 questions were: (1) the preferred clothing style for 3 stature groups, (2) the conformity of stature designation on ready-made clothing, (3) frequency of restrictions on clothing design selection because of short or tall stature, (4) the important part to decide a good fit for a jacket, blouse, slacks, and skirt, (5) dissatisfaction with clothing fit and frequency of mending, and (6) mended part for a correct fit. They were analyzed according to 3 stature groups and the differences among 3 stature groups were found on them. For example, short women preferred short jackets; however, tall women preferred a long length. Short women experienced more restrictions on clothing design (or length) selection because a short stature. Hip girth was more important to decide a good fit for tall women versus short or medium women. Armhole and slacks width from crotch to knee were important parts to decide a good fit for short women. The study results should be applied to clothing design (or pattern making) in order to upgrade clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.131-138
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.169-181
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• 2016

This study analyzed the characteristics and patterns of men's drawers panties to get basic data for their design. For this, drawers panties in 7 different brands (4: domestic brands, 3: imported brands) in terms of a front-center shape were collected, and the shape of men's drawers panties, characteristics of the materials, dimensions & type of patterns by the part and front-center patterns were analyzed. The study results found the followings: First, in terms of the shape of men's drawers panties, the front-center part were designed to rest the penis and scrotum in a natural and comfortable manner without a pee slit. They were seamless on the sides except for one product with side seams. Second, the drawer panties were made of elastic polyurethane materials. Specifically, domestic brand items used warm, elastic and durable nylon, polyester and rayon and polyurethanes while imported brands were mostly made of absorbent and sanitary polyurethanes. Third, regarding a size of drawer panties by part, imported brands were large in waist circumference. In terms of waist breadth at the front center, there was difference depending on an oval type. In addition, the front length at the front center differed by product, revealing difference in three-dimensional effect at the front center. The side length also differed greatly by product, which means that there might be a great difference in wear comfort. Fourth, in terms of the patterns of men's drawers panties, there was difference in side seams, center back seam and front-center patterns. Among a total of 7 products, only one product had side seams, and center back seams were found in two products only. Fifth, in terms of front-center patterns, the drawer panties can be divided into three types, creating three-dimensional effect not to give any pressure on the crotch: i) the cutting line only at the bottom of the front center part where the penis is rested, ii) puff created at the front center by adding a transverse line to the center line, iii) cutting transverse line to separate the penis from the testicles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.692-704
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• 2007

Recently, Basic patterns with excellent body fitness and automation availability are required to be developed in order to automate the patterns of women's clothes. In this study, this reference points, reference lines and segments were fixed onto 3D scan data for the lower body the women in their twenties, they were directly spread out to be 2D flat pattern to facilitate development into the design of slacks adhered closely to the human body such as special and highly-functional clothes, and then slacks 2D pattern was developed for the purpose of seeking scientific approach to the development into basic form slacks and 3d emotional pattern. For conversion of 3D pattern into 2D flat pattern, reference points and segments were created by using Rapid Form of 3D shape analysis software, and triangle mesh of the body surface of the created shape was developed with Auto CAD 2005. The correspondence between slacks and human body was examined by the fixation of major reference lines. Specially, the wearing characteristics of slacks were considered by the fixation of side lines in consideration of posture. As a result of using the way of development to constantly maintain the length while 3D triangle mesh is converted into 2D flat mesh, the shape was shown to be excellently reproduced, and the area of flat pattern was increased compared to the shape of parting plane. Also, the sunk-in curve like the brief line of front crotch length needed a cutting line when it was closely adhered, when mesh was overlapped, and the pattern area was smaller compared to the actual shape.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.93-106
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of bodysuit and to identify the wear fitness of it The methods of statistical analysis applied to the study were ANOVA and cluster analysis. The materials used in making bodysuit were Nylon/Polyurethane, lace, power net, binding tape, and hook eye. The try-on test was administered in two aspects ; (1) the comparison of anthropometric data before and after trying on the experimentally constructed bodysuit with those of marketing bodysuit, (2) the sensory evaluation to estimate the wear fitness in terms of appearance and motion function. The conclusions obtained are as follows ; 1. In the survey of wearing state, 52.2% of respondents had experience of wearing bodysuit. 60.6% of them responded to the item, “well-balanced body” in the question about the purpose of wearing it. 55.7% considered the item, “feel choky in the chest” as uncomfortable point in putting on bodysuit. 48.3% felt the portion of crotch drawn above in taking exercise or behaving routinely in everyday life. 2. As for the characteristics of the bodysuit design, the scooped neckline and horizontal outline without wire in lower bust was used, the adjust point being located right above the perineum point, and the length of bodysuit is as far as trochanteric point. 3. In comparing anthropometric data of the subjects, there was significant difference in the height of lower bust the distance around abdomen, and the length of bust point(right, left) between the experimentally constructed bodysuit and the marketing bodysuit. 4. Concerning the results of the try-on test in appearance, the estimates of expert panel, which were in agreement with those of subjects in mean value and composite reliability coefficient, showed that the pattern fitness of experimentally designed bodysuit was higher than that of marketing bodysuit. 5. To take try-on test in motion function, motion was classified the five steps. The results of the test showed that experimentally designed bodysuit was fitter in each steps of motion than marketing bodysuit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.695-707
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• 2016

This study presents quantitative evaluation standards for the shape fitness test, conducted in the process of the slacks fit test. This study aims to quantify appearance sensory test of slacks for the objectification of qualitative evaluation methods in existing shape fitness tests. The subjects were women of standard body type between the ages of 18 and 24. Slacks differing in their ease in waist girth, hip girth, crotch length and knee length were designed to test their shape fitness. The gap volume distribution between the body and slack, angle of the baseline by body part, and ratio of total thickness from the sideline using 3D human body scan data (which reflect the results of the appearance sensory test) were presented as quantitative evaluation standards. There were less wrinkles in the wrinkle/overstretch and ease categories of the appearance sensory test; in addition, ease was adequate and small enough to comfortably perform basic human activities in the standing upright posture. The gap volume distribution analysis between body and slacks showed that curves increased in the slacks surface along with an increase of ease in slacks and suggested that wrinkles also increased. In the baseline's horizontal categories in terms of a $0^{\circ}$ horizontal angle, the range of angles were evaluated as adequate by the clothing expert group. The total thickness ratio of 0.5:0.5 divides into the sideline from the baseline.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.671-685
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, and frequency analysis. The stature was divided at 5cm intervals as in KS into 9 sizes from the lowest 130cm to the highest 171cm. If waist circumference were divided at the same intervals, the sizes cannot reflect the body growth of adolescent girls at these ages. Thus this study set intervals between sizes irregularly based on the mean of waist circumference by the type of body shape. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 6 sizes (140A-58, 145A-54, 145A-62, 150A-58, 150A-62, 155A-62); for Type X- 9 sizes (150X-59, 155X-63, 155X-66, 160X-59, 160X-63, 160X-66, 165X-59, 165X-63, 165X-66): and for Type H - 7 sizes (145H-68, 150H-68, 150H-70, 155H-68, 155H-73, 160H-68, 160H-73). For the sizes selected for each type, reference measurements were decided - centering on items necessary for manufacturing clothes. Reference measurements suggested for lower garments 8 items including waist circumference, hip circumference, slacks length and crotch length. The suggested sizes are distributed in a wider range, so they are considered to be helpful for students to find clothes fitting their bodies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.608-621
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• 1993

The Purposes of this study were 1)to find the body surface total line and segment line significantly(${\alpha}$=0.05) changed by the leg movement including all movement direction of hip joint, knee joint and ankle joint for the more functional clothing. 2)to classify them into 3 types-expansion type, contraction type, expansion & contraction type, and 3)to identify the characteristics of the body surface length changes. 10 Crosswise and 5 lengthwise body surface total lines and 48 crosswise & 39 lengthwise body surface segment lines of 26 female college students aged from 18 to 24 years were measured directly on the body surface and were analyzed by ANOVA & Multiple Comparison Test (Tukey). The results were as following : Body surface total lines significantly changed were all the body surface total lines except abdoman girth, 1/2thigh girth of lower leg and ankle girth, and these were classified into 3 types : Center front leg line belonged to expansion & contraction type, whereas lateral leg line, legscye girth, and total crotch length belonged to contraction type. The rest belonged to expansion type. Knee girth showed maximum expansion, whereas center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Body surface total lines have shown large expansion crosswise whereas lengthwise they have mainly shown contraction. At least more than one component segment line of each body surface total lines except abdoman girth and ankle girth have shown significant change. Top segment of inner leg line showed maximum expansion. whereas just below top segment of center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Crosswise all the body surface segment lines have shown expansion except inner back segments of thigh girth and 1/2thigh girth of upper leg which have shown contraction. Lengthwise they have shown both expansion and contraction according to the location of front or back, and below or upper 1/2thigh girth line except the component segment lines of lateral leg line, which has shown contraction only.(cf. figure 2. figure 3. and table 2-2).