• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.301-307
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• 2009

In the previous study, we evaluated and reported about the anti-oxidative activities of extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf. Extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf showed excellent free radical scavenging activity, cell protective activity and inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. In this study, in order to investigate the stability of cream containing 0.2 % Castanea crenata ethyl acetate fraction. pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under 4 different temperature ($4^{\circ}C$, $20^{\circ}C$, $37^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C)$ and under the sun light at 2 weeks intervals for the 8 weeks. The variations on pH and viscosity of all experimental creams were similar to control cream. The absorbance variation of extract from experimental cream at 353 nm was in the order: under the sun > $45^{\circ}C$ > $37^{\circ}C$ > $20^{\circ}C$ > $4^{\circ}C$. It shows that ethyl acetate fraction in the cream can be oxidized under the sun. The bad smell and discoloration were not shown. Also, physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. Also, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Castanea cranata leaf extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 120 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as 29.7 % (experimental cream) and 5.4 % (control cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased 22.6 % (experimental cream) and 24.7 % (control cream) respectively. It was confirmed that a cream containing ethyl acetate fraction of Castanea crenata leaf shows the superior moisturizing effect. The results showed that Castanea crenata leaf extract could be used as a new active ingredient for anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.170-175
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• 2009

The extract of Platycarya strobilacea is known to possess a wide range of pharmacological activities including anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, and anti-cancer properties. We have reported that the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea (PS-ET fraction) has high potential as an antioxidant agent (J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea 34(4) 275, 2008). In this study, antibacterial activity of the fraction and stability of the cream containing 0.2% PS-ET fraction were investigated for the application to cosmetics. Antibacterial activity of PS-ET fraction against various skin pathogenic bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Pityrosporum ovale) was measured by minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC). MIC values of PS-ET fraction on P. acnes, S. aureus, and P. ovale were 0.13%, 0.06% and 0.25%, respectively. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the fraction was the highest in the S. aureus. For the stability evaluation, pH and viscosity of the cream containing 0.2% PS-ET fraction were measured. The results showed that pH changes of the cream containing PS-ET fraction was lower than the control cream without PS-ET fraction. And the PS-ET fraction could repress the decrease of viscosity of the cream against sunlight treatment. These results suggest that the fraction of Platycarya strobilacea has high potential as bactericide against the skin pathogenic bacteria and could be added to improve the stability of cosmetic products.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.70-76
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• 2006

Purecell, hydroxyethyl-cellulose-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride ether, was developed as a thickener and evaluated its functions for stability and safety when it was added in the cosmetic composition. Compared with a commercially available thickener Natrasol, Purecell have a basic chemical backbone of hydroxyethylcellulose which has been widely used in the cosmetic industry. pH and viscosity of Purecell was lower than those of Natrasol, however, a similar pH value to was shown when the Purecell was added into a shampoo or cream. The Purecell was stable to temperature and light. When 0.5% of the Purcell was added to a shampoo having cationic surfactant, a separation occurred due to the same cationic surfactant of the Purecell and shampoo. However, the shampoo and cream made with Purecell improved a smoothness and adaptability of hair. It also showed a negative response for Patch test of human, indicating the Purecell was safe for use.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.27-32
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• 2010

Properties of fucoidan used for functional cosmetics agents were studied. Fucoidan was extracted from Undaria pinnatifida sporophylls. To test possibility of fucoidan as a cosmetics material, water-holding property measurement, DPPH free radical scavenging assay and MTT assay were done. Water-holding property of fucoidan was higher than that of hyaruronic acid, which is known as the one of the best water-holding material. The water-holding strength of fucoidan slightly increase as molecular weight of fucoidan decrease. Fucoidan showed high stability from MTT assay and good anti-oxidation property from DPPH assay. To evaluate the effect of water-holding property and anti-alergy property of fucoidan on the atopic dermatitis(AD), 46 AD patients were treated with fucoidan cream. After 6 weeks treatment, Investigation Global Assessment(IGA) scores decreased from 3.04 to 2.15, that is fucoidan cream had a 39.8% benefit effect on atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.241-251
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• 2020

This study was performed to develop the cosmetics containing extract of U.davidiana, which has been confirmed as a functional ingredient of anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects, and also to evaluate the improvement effects of dry and sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis. Toxicity tests of the Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid residue 60% EtOH extracts(USCFR), Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extracts(USCF) and preliminary formulations, DKBP-1903(gel), containing the USCFR and USCF were determined to be 'Non-toxic'. Based on this, the stability test of the lotion, cream, gel formulation was conducted and the results showed that cream and gel formulation were stable. A 48-hour moisturizing sustainability test and the improvement test on the pruritus caused by dryness were selected for the cosmetic efficacy test to evaluate the improvement of atopic dermatitis and as a result both cream and gel have been found to be relatively safe moisturizers that can help dry and sensitive skin.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.135-150
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• 2003

This study is described the stabilizing technology of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion and the mechanism of emulsification with quaternium-18 hectorite (Q-18 HTRT) by swelling action. When Q-18 HTRT is dispersed in oil, it swells and constructs card-house structure adding ethanol, and formation of water phase is caused by hydrogen bonding. The gelling activities of Q-18 HTRT were excellent such as mineral oil, squalane, cetostearyl isononanoate, isostearic acid, cetyl octanoate, octyl dodecanol and so on. Especially, when oil gel containing Q-18 HTRT passed one to three times by Roll mill. It made the W/O emulsion cream (W/O-ECRM) having 2.0 w/w% of Q-18 HTRT and also produced the control sample (control) including 3.0 w/w% of cetyl PEG/PPG- l0/l dimethicone. The stability of after 24 weeks, Hardness of W/O-ECRM dropped 7.48%, whereas hardness of control went down 57 71%. As a result of these test emulsification of W/O-ECRM is superior compared with control. In cosmetic, 0-18 HTRT can use as suspending agent, oil adsorbent, emulsifying agent, dispersing agent, viscosifier and pigment.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

This study is to make the liquid crystalline structure using sucrose distearate (Sucro-DS) emulsifier to create the hydrophilic type oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, the droplets of the emulsion having a structure of a multi-lamellar structure. We have studied the physicochemical properties of Sucro-DS using those techniques. And it has been studied in the emulsion performance. In order to form the liquid crystalline structure applying 3 wt% of Sucro-DS, 5 wt% of glycerin, 5 wt% of squalane, 5 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride, 3wt% of cetostearyl alcohol, 1wt% of glyceryl mono-stearate, 78 wt% of pure water in mixture having the lamellar structure of stable multi-layer system was found to formed. By applying them, they were described how to create an unstable active material encapsulated cream. Further, the moisturizing cream was studied using this technique. It reported the results to the skin improvement effect by the human clinical trials. The pH range to produce a stable liquid crystal phase using a Sucro-DS was maintained in 5.2~7.5. In order to increase the stability of the liquid crystal, it was when behenyl alcohol containing 3 wt%, the hardness at this time was 13 kg/mm,min. Viscosity of the same amount was 25,000mPas/min. After a test for the effects of the emulsions, the concentration of 6 wt% Sucro-DS is that was appropriate, the particle size of the liquid crystal was 4~6mm. It was observed through a microscope analysis, reliability of the liquid crystal changes for 3 months was found to get stable at each $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$ and $45^{\circ}C$. In clinical trial test, before applying a moisturizing effect it was $13.4{\pm}7%$. Moisturizing cream liquid crystal was not formed in $14.5{\pm}5%$. Therefore, applying than ever before could see the moisture about 8.2% was improved. On the other hand, it was the moisturizing effect of the liquid cream is $19.2{\pm}7%$. The results showed that 43.3% improvement than that previously used. Applications fields, Sucro-DS emulsifier used liquid cream, lotion, eye cream and a variety of formulations can be developed, as well as the cosmetics industry is expected to be wide fields in the application of the external preparation for skin emulsion technology in the pharmaceutical industry and pharmaceutical industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.77-85
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• 2022

Retinaldehyde (RA), vitamin A derivative, is an intermediate between retinol and retinoic acid and has an excellent wrinkle improving effect. In this study, Drug-in-cyclodextrin-in-liposome (DCL) was used to enhance the stability and skin penetration of RA. The complex of RA and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) was prepared by the freeze-drying method, and the presence or absence of inclusion of retinal was confirmed by UV-Vis spectrometer, FT-IR and SEM images. RA was captured in HP-β-CD about 95.6% on 1 : 15 (w/w). The retinal-HP-β-CD complex was encapsulated in liposomes using a homomixer and microfluidizer, with an average particle size of 215 ± 4.2 nm and a zeta potential of -31.2 ± 0.5 mv. In the evaluation of the degradation stability of RA, degradation rate of RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes in water was 1.8% higher than RA-liposome (5.8%), RA-HP-β-CD complex (9.7%) and RA alone (37.6%). RA cream (0.05% RA) including RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes was prepared for clinical test with wrinkle-improving efficacy and skin dermis denseness evaluated for 2 or 4 weeks. RA cream showed a significant wrinkle improving effect without skin irritation. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the double stabilization technology using the DCL system contribu tes to the effect of improving skin wrinkles by increasing the stabilization of retinal.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.181-191
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• 2003

This study described about method that form liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in OW emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following. To form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used $4.0\;wt\%$ of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by $4.0\;wt\%$ of HL as a booster, Moisturizers contained $2\;wt\%$ of glycerin and $3.0\;wt\%$ of 1.3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used $3.0\;wt\%$ of cyclomethicone, $3.0\;wt\%$ of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), $3.0\;wt\%$ of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), $3.0\;wt\%$ of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions. Considering safety of skin, PH was the most suitable $\pm61.0$ ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in $32\;dyne/cm^2.$ Particle of LCG is forming size of $1{\~}20\;{\mu}m$ um range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in $1{\~}6\;{\mu}m$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi-layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased $30.6\%$. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.