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A study on the Formulation of high-moisturizing Cosmetics containing Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extract

초임계 추출 느릅나무 성분을 함유한 고 보습 화장품 제형에 대한 평가 연구

  • 구은비 ((주)동구바이오제약 중앙연구소) ;
  • 김한규 ((주)동구바이오제약 중앙연구소) ;
  • 김윤식 (네비팜 R&D센터) ;
  • 추의진 ((주)동구바이오제약 중앙연구소)
  • Received : 2020.02.14
  • Accepted : 2020.05.20
  • Published : 2020.05.28

Abstract

This study was performed to develop the cosmetics containing extract of U.davidiana, which has been confirmed as a functional ingredient of anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects, and also to evaluate the improvement effects of dry and sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis. Toxicity tests of the Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid residue 60% EtOH extracts(USCFR), Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extracts(USCF) and preliminary formulations, DKBP-1903(gel), containing the USCFR and USCF were determined to be 'Non-toxic'. Based on this, the stability test of the lotion, cream, gel formulation was conducted and the results showed that cream and gel formulation were stable. A 48-hour moisturizing sustainability test and the improvement test on the pruritus caused by dryness were selected for the cosmetic efficacy test to evaluate the improvement of atopic dermatitis and as a result both cream and gel have been found to be relatively safe moisturizers that can help dry and sensitive skin.

항균, 항산화, 항염증 효능의 기능성 원료로써 효능이 확인된 느릅나무 추출물을 포함하는 화장품 개발을 위한 연구와 이 화장품의 아토피피부염과 같은 건조하고 민감한 피부 개선 효능에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. 원료 물질인 느릅나무 초임계 추출박 60%주정 추출물(USCFR)과 초임계 추출물(USCF), 이를 포함하는 예비제형 DKBP-1903 (겔)에 대한 독성시험을 수행한 결과 '무독성'으로 판정되었다. 이를 토대로 조제한 각 제형별 화장품 로션, 크림, 겔에 대한 안정성 시험 결과, 크림과 겔이 더 우수한 안정성을 보였고 안정성이 확보된 두 가지 제형에 대해 아토피 피부염 개선 효능 입증을 위한 화장품 효능시험으로 48시간 보습지속력 시험과 건조함에 의한 소양감개선 시험을 진행한 결과, 크림과 겔 도포 24시간 후 82.9%, 92.32%의 피부각질층 수분함량 개선율을 보였고 2주 후부터 소양감 개선 효과를 나타냈다. 이러한 결과를 통해 크림과 겔 모두 비교적 안전한 보습제로써 건조하고 민감한 피부에 도움을 줄 수 있는 것으로 판단된다.

Keywords

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