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Formation of Liquid Crystal Gel with Hydrogenated Lecithin and Its Effectiveness  

Kim In-Young (Skin Science Institute and R&D Center, ENPRANI Co., LTD)
Lee Joo-Dong (Skin Science Institute and R&D Center, ENPRANI Co., LTD)
Ryoo Hee-Chang (Skin Science Institute and R&D Center, ENPRANI Co., LTD)
Zhoh Choon-Koo (Dept. of Chemical & Environmental Eng. Soongsil Univ.)
Publication Information
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea / v.29, no.2, 2003 , pp. 181-191 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study described about method that form liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in OW emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following. To form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used $4.0\;wt\%$ of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by $4.0\;wt\%$ of HL as a booster, Moisturizers contained $2\;wt\%$ of glycerin and $3.0\;wt\%$ of 1.3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used $3.0\;wt\%$ of cyclomethicone, $3.0\;wt\%$ of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), $3.0\;wt\%$ of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), $3.0\;wt\%$ of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions. Considering safety of skin, PH was the most suitable $\pm61.0$ ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in $32\;dyne/cm^2.$ Particle of LCG is forming size of $1{\~}20\;{\mu}m$ um range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in $1{\~}6\;{\mu}m$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi-layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased $30.6\%$. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.
Keywords
Liquid crystal; hydrogenated lecithin; moisture; o/w emulsion; multi-layer;
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