• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

Digital transformation has induced changes in human life patterns; consumption patterns are also changing to digitalization. Entering the era of industry 4.0 with the 4th industrial revolution, it is important to pay attention to a new paradigm in the fashion industry, the shift from developer-centered to user-centered in the era of the 3rd industrial revolution. The meaning of storing users' changing life and consumption patterns and analyzing stored big data are linked to consumer sentiment. It is more valuable to read emotions, then develop and distribute products based on them, rather than developer-centered processes that previously started in the fashion market. An AI(Artificial Intelligence) deep learning algorithm that analyzes user emotion big data from user experience(UX) to emotion and uses the analyzed data as a source has become possible. By combining AI technology, the fashion industry can develop various new products and technologies that meet the functional and emotional aspects required by consumers and expect a sustainable user experience structure. This study analyzes clear and useful user experience in the fashion industry to derive the characteristics of AI algorithms that combine emotions and technologies reflecting users' needs and proposes methods that can be used in the fashion industry. The purpose of the study is to utilize information analysis using big data and AI algorithms so that structures that can interact with users and developers can lead to a sustainable ecosystem. Ultimately, it is meaningful to identify the direction of the optimized fashion industry through user experienced emotional fashion technology algorithms.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.946-958
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• 2011

This study develops Korean Style Loungewear as a cultural fashion product. Through the use of surveys, Korean sentiments about Korean traditional clothing and Korean style fashion have been examined. The survey was conducted for 5,000 people in Korea; 3,500 responses of meaningful data were statistically analyzed. The data was processed by a SAS system; frequency and percentage were performed. It was found that Korean people have a high preference for Korean traditional clothing; however, they are not satisfied with its comfort, maintenance, or price. They answered that they would wear Korean style fashion if the design, comfort, and price were improved. They responded positively on the development of Korean Style Loungewear and its effectiveness as a cultural product. Based on the survey and basic geometric structures of Korean traditional costumes, silhouette designs of Loungewear have been developed. The designs are divided into one-piece styles and two-piece styles. The characteristic design details are git (Korean neckline) and goreum (Korean tie ribbon). The results have been shown on the "Han Style Fashion Show" by Jeonju City and exhibited in the "Seoul Living Design Fair" and the "International Art & Craft Trend Fair" in COEX, Seoul.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.175-191
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• 2012

It is said that the mainstream of the oriental culture is Confucian culture, but not be the unique culture of Korea. The religious object in Taoist ideology of immortality reflecting the awareness of cultural community and Korean identity was three spirits. Three spirits are one spirit in terms of main subject. Three spirits were named because they rule the heaven, the earth and human beings each in the reality. The custom performing the religious service to the heaven and the earth is not based on the Taoist ideology of immortality but only the superstition which we can't understand. However, we can clearly understand the reason why the ideology has been transmitted up to now in our awareness and culture when we understand the basis of that ideology. The theory on the origin based on the birthplace of Taoist ideology would be based on the shamanism of Eastern barbarianism and their cultural features. Accordingly, this paper aimed to identify the formative features of phoenix pattern and background of the formation of phoenix pattern based on the unique culture of Korea. Furthermore, the traditional craft works of Korea with the phoenix pattern which secured its position as the representative pattern of Korea will be investigated.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.265-281
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• 2018

Government policy supporting the fashion industry in Korea has focused on the future development of rising fashion designer's brands, and as a part of this support, several Fashion Creative Studios are presently operated. The purpose of this study is to identify the meaning of these facilities and suggest development strategies for their effective utilization. This paper presents a conceptual understanding based on a literature review, and deduces the direction of Fashion Creative Studios through an exploratory analysis of various case studies and in-depth interviews with five designers, who have graduated from the Seoul Fashion Creative Studio. The results are as follows. Firstly, fashion educational institutions have to provide sufficient information about the Fashion Creative Studios to students. They can also consider adding short-term residencies to the curriculum in which students prepare collections or portfolios for the studios. Secondly, Fashion Creative Studios are required to intensify business and marketing programs to increase real-world support. It would be helpful to provide 1:1 management programs with several segmented stages for the design brands, or connect them to investors who could provide financial support and business expansion. Thirdly, Fashion Creative Studios need to find a way to strengthen textile differentiation and craft characteristics to increase designer brand competitiveness. Broadening participation with textile designers, connecting with experts and ateliers, and promoting collaboration with artists and artisans in the Arts Creative Studios can be further examined to this end.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.71-81
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• 2018

This study aims at exploring how the existing stereotypes of needlework, which has long been regarded as a tribute to domestic labor and hobbies which are the purview of women, have come into play in the current trend of convergence among various fields, techniques and materials. This research examines these trends based on cases in two categories applied to the fields of art and space use products. In the field of art, it can be seen that needlework is applied in a variety of ways in the overall diffusion of craftivism, which is a way of asserting opinions about politics and societies. In yarn bombing and performance art, not only do needlework experts, but also, artists of other genres, underscore their propensity of carrying out projects that take advantage of the basic principles of needlework and various physical properties. Various needlework projects applied to the space use products showed the tendency to interact with the spectator or the user as a basic element through examples of playscape, which has the function of being used for relaxation and play. The study was able to confirm the tendency of interior products, which are made from needlework to furniture and tableware directly, and the tendency of materials' expansion. Based on this research, we are going to explore the possibilities for diverse new fusion attempts in fashion and textiles, as well as art, craft and design fields, in the future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.182-199
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• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.136-153
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• 2020

In the second half of the twentieth century, fashion shows were a long-standing promotional medium and changed form and styles as times changed. In the past, if a model were on the stage simply to showcase a brand's work, the stage would have been transformed into a more active space, displaying various performances or seasonal themes combined with art. Then in the 2000s, there was an increasing number of instances when the global fashion industry of used figurative objet in organizing a fashion show's stage. In particular, because fashion shows require audience response and satisfaction, producing displays using objet is an effective marketing method. In the early 2000s, many brands were already introducing runway displays using objet, and these cases are expected to increase further in the future. This collection of 23 ready-to-wear models, which constituted the runway display, was by utilizing the objet more than five times from the 485 brands listed in Vogue's runway category. Based on our previous research, we classified the objet expressive characteristics as reproducibility, simplicity, non-artificiality, and fantasy. Among the 207 collections that we analyzed, the collection that utilized objet in its runway display had 170 circuits. Using objet in the runway display leverages visual language which allows one to communicate the season's concept, brand identity, and desired message more easily. Futhermore, it was spatially expressed to create feeling of satisfaction.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2020

Just as the name 'aesthetics' implies, the meaning of 'aisthesis' or 'sense' in Greek, is perceived as an important element in modern social design. Gilles Deleuze emphasized sensory expression over the rational side of the body, and argued for sensory theory, which is the theory of how painting produces new senses. The purpose of this study was to theoretically examine the sensory theory of Deleuze, which has given new value to the senses, apply it to analyze the body expression method shown in the Iris van Herpen collection, and derive its aesthetic characteristics. In his sensory theory, Deleuze argued that the senses can be expressed by the embodiment of force and rhythm, and one can only create art through the senses. To develop one's philosophical logic through Bacon's painting, we divided it into Hysteria, Cops sans organs, Diagram, Becoming, and Paired figures. Based on these analyses, the visualization of the senses in Iris van Herpen fashion resulted in hysteria, organ-free body, diagrams, and heterogeneity combinations. Analysis of the method of expression revealed rhythmicity, atypicality, scalability, and reproducibility as expression characteristics. Applying Deleuze's sensory theory to access experimental Iris van Herpen's fashion could confirm that there was an open system's accessibility. Deleuze's sensory theory, which has given a new value to the senses, will further help to understand modern fashion design in a wide and diverse way and discover the intrinsic value within it.