• Title/Summary/Keyword: costume design

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The Impact of Clothings of Kisaengs in the later Choson (조선후기의 기녀 복식이 사회에 미친 영향)

  • Kim, Hye-Young
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.289-321
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    • 1996
  • After the two big wars (Imjin Woeran and Byungia Horan), the Lee Dynasty confronted rapid transitional periods in almost all aspects of the society. Corruption of the governmental system by the wars and disordered social structures also caused confusion in the social position system. In addition, development of the commercial economic system and monetary economy brought up a new rich middle-class, "Joong in Gyegeup". In ideological aspects, Confucianism indulged in and stick to isms and ics, and the Confucian morality slackened, thus a more pragmatic ideology, "Silhak Sasang", developed. And the emergence of the modern literature and art of the 'common people' was followed by the appearance of the common-people class including those having the common-people concept among the noble-class "Yangban Gyegeup". This evoked a new common costume culture and the fashion appeared. The public could no longer find the power and appeal from the preexisting ruling classes due to the changed role and sense of value. Thus, they sought a new symbolic leader group that would to be the new standard of the newly changed society. That was a group of people called as "Kisaeng" liberal and independent. They were performing social activities, enjoying poetry, music and dancing, and classy dressers, having physically attractive bodies. The erotic as well as luxurious mode proposed by them reflected the trend of that time. It concurred well with the concept and taste of the public, so it was accepted with a good response. That is, by following these leaders, the public achieved their identification and tried to share the prestige of the leaders. For this reason, the Kisaeng group attracted the public attention and led the taste of the public, thereby becoming the influential fashion leaders of that age.

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Isolation and Characterization of Comamonase sp. and Microbacterium sp. from Deep Blue Sediment Dye of Polygoum tinctoria, Niram (쪽 염료 니람으로부터 Comamonas sp.와 Microbacterium sp.의 분리 및 특성분석)

  • Jang, Seong Eun;Lee, Nam Keun;Lee, Yuri;Choi, Mee-Sung;Jeong, Yong-Seob
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.60-64
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    • 2013
  • Two strains were isolated from the traditional Deep Blue Sediment Dye of Polygoum tinctoria, Niram, and temporarily named Niram A and Niram B, respectively. The phylogenetic analysis revealed that strain Niram A and B were closely related to the members of the genus Comamonas and Microbacterium, respectively. Strain Niram A exhibited the highest 16S rRNA gene sequence similarity to C. aquatica LMG $2370^T$ (98.06%). Strain Niram B showed 100% homology with M. oxydans DSM 20578T and M. maritypicum DSM $12512^T$. The growth of the strain Niram A and B was not inhibited in Niram medium containing high calcium concentration without free sugar as carbon source. The reducing Niram is greenish. Therefore, the reducing ability on the Niram of the strains Niram A and B were determined with the color difference of the $a^*$ values of Niram fermented-fluids. The $a^*$ value indicates the level of redness (positive value) or greenness (negative value). The green color is increasing towards the negative value. In all samples fermented for 10 days, the $a^*$ values among samples were no significant difference. However, samples fermented for 15 days have an appreciable change. After fermentation for 15 days, the control Niram sample had $-3.96{\pm}0.02$ of the $a^*$ value. On the other hand, the Niram samples fermented with the strain Niram A and B showed $-4.20{\pm}0.02$ of the $a^*$ value and $-7.86{\pm}0.03$ of the $a^*$ value, respectively. In the reducing ability on the Niram, the strain Niram B was significantly better than the strain Niram A.

A Study on the Fate of Futurism: Russian Futurism in the 20th Century and Korean 'Futurism' in the 21th Century (미래파 현상의 운명에 관한 소고: 20세기 러시아 미래파와 21세기 한국 '미래파'를 중심으로)

  • Park, Sun-Yung
    • Cross-Cultural Studies
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    • v.44
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    • pp.239-281
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    • 2016
  • This article explores the fate of futurism not only by tracing the entire process from the birth and decline of Russian futurism in the early 20th century and the so-called "Korean futurism" in the early 21st century, but also by delving into how their characteristics were shaped. In the first chapter, we investigate four groups of Russian futurism - Ego-Futurism, Cubo-Futurism, Tsentrifuga, and the Mezzanine of poetry, which were born in the age of utopianism before the Revolution. In the opera Victory Over the Sun, which was the culmination of the Zaum project of Cubo-futurists, we can find the initial shortcomings at the levels of language (Kruchenykh), music (Matyushin) and decoration and costume design (Malevich). In the second chapter, we examine chronologically how the term 'futurism' appeared in Korean literature history. In Korea, the term 'futurism' was born following the naming and classification of critic Kwon Heok-Woong, not by the voluntary manifestation of experimental poets such as Hwang Byong-Seung, thus this specific situation provoked stormy polemics between critics for futurism and critics against futurism in the Korean literary world. These polemics on futurist poetics have led to considerations of the relation of criticism to poetry.

A Study on Ornaments' Exhibition Type through Connection with Costume Field (장신구의 의상분야 연계를 통한 전시유형 연구)

  • KIM, TAE WHAN
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.58-65
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    • 2021
  • Jewelry Object to adorn a body with has been a very important culture since the primitive age when history of human beings started. Ornaments for social status or wealth's symbolic icon otherwise for private embellishment have been developed with various properties such as decorative, monetary, scarce, historic ones. However, since the latter 20th century, when intellecture concept was more valuable than the tradition laying emphasis on preciousness, with counting of artistic activities and aesthetic values, they have had expressionistic tendency centered on artists. In this manner, modern ornaments have been developed as an artistic genre deviating from traditional way in which material or technology was emphasized. While this expressionistic tendency emphasized artistic value, galleries only for ornaments have been started since 1960s and especially from this period, a lot of experimental and revolutionary ornaments works deviating from traditional way have been exhibited. The appearance of galleries specialized in ornaments as described above had a great influence on the ornaments' development to an artistic genre. This study is the one in respect of two exhibition types through the combination of human body and clothes in displaying ornaments. The first one represents active displaying way for the communication with audience by introducing fashion show to galleries deviating from general exhibition way. The second one plans to run a project collaborating fashion brand for the communication between ornaments and clothes and represents displaying way in the shop of fashion brand for active exhibition publicity.

An Exploratory Study on the Status of and Demand for Higher Education Programs in Fashion in Myanmar (미얀마의 패션 고등교육 현황과 수요에 대한 탐색적 연구)

  • Kang, Min-Kyung;Jin, Byoungho Ellie;Cho, Ahra;Lee, Hyojeong;Lee, Jaeil;Lee, Yoon-Jung
    • Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.1-23
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    • 2022
  • This study examined the perceptions of Myanmar university students and professors regarding the status and necessity of higher education programs in fashion. Data were collected from professors in textile engineering at Yangon Technological University and Myanmar university students. Closed- and open-ended questions were asked either through interviews or by email. The responses were analyzed using keyword extraction and categorization, and descriptive statistics(closed questions). Generally, the professors perceived higher education, as well as the cultural industries including art and fashion, as important for Myanmar's social and economic development. According to the students interests in pursuing a degree in textile were limited, despite the high interest in fashion. Low wages in the apparel industry and lack of fashion degrees that meet the demand of students were cited as reasons. The demand was high for educational programs in fashion product development, fashion design, pattern-making, fashion marketing, branding, management, costume history, and cultural studies. Students expected to find their future career in textiles and clothing factories. Many students wanted to be hired by global fashion brands for higher salaries and training for advanced knowledge and technical skills. They perceived advanced fashion education programs will have various positive effects on Myanmar's national economy.

A Comparative Study on the Subjective Sensation and Tactile Preferences for Casual Shirt Fabrics Compared by the Nationality of Female University Students (여대생의 국적에 따른 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적 감각과 촉감 선호도 비교)

  • Meng, Yu;Choi, Jongmyoung
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.105-114
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    • 2021
  • This study determines the differences between Korean female university students and their Chinese counterparts residing in Korea by evaluating the subjective sensation and tactile preference in fabrics for casual shirts. Seven types of white causal shirt fabrics were selected as specimens from those available in spring and autumn shirt collection. The fabrics were made from various fibers (cotton 100%, polyester 100%, flax 100%, polyester 80%/cotton 20%, polyester 65%/cotton 35%, polyester 50%/cotton 45%/spandex 5%, and polyester 50%/modal 50%). Forty Korean and Chinese female university students subjectively assessed the subjective sensation of fabrics used for casual shirts. Participants were asked to observe the seven types of fabrics and complete the questionnaire. The subjective sensation to be assessed for white casual shirt fabrics was classified into the following four factors: smoothness, lightness, softness, and stretchiness. Subjective sensation factors showed partially significant differences by nationality. Korean female students evaluated cotton fabric as being light, whereas their Chinese counterparts evaluated the polyester/cotton/spandex blended fabric as light. Korean female students evaluated polyester/modal blended fabric as being stretchable. The tactile preference for fiber composition of the fabrics showed partially significant differences by nationality. Korean female students preferred cotton 80%/polyester 20% blended fabric, polyester 50%/cotton 45%/spandex 5% blended fabric, and flax 100% fabric. The subjective sensation of the fabrics had different effects on preferences by nationality. Smoothness and softness had positive effects on preferences for the fabrics of Korean students. However, smoothness, softness, and stretchiness had positive effects on the preferences of Chinese students. The subjective sensation and tactile preference for casual shirt fabrics showed a difference between Korean female students and their Chinese counterparts. Therefore, when planning casual shirt fabrics for female university students, it is necessary to reflect on these differences in subjective sensation and tactile preference.