• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2007

The modern fashion contains the religious factors or theories out of numerous cultural traits. Shamanism is a product of the very complicated combination of diversified cultural phenomena and whose traits are depicted as spiritual and artistic forms, reflecting on the materialism culture, social relations, customs, and religious faith. The Shamanism that lies in the life of humans gives much impact on their clothing life up to date, consciously or nonconsciously as well. The Shamanism clothing studied as yet has been focused on the costumes that a Shamanism priest and a shaman, the principal Shamanism performer wears and on the symbolic meaning or formativeness of the traditional shaman clothing that is only confined to certain local regions. The Shamanism in the modern costume influences not only on the traditional clothing unique to shaman but also on the other apparels in a widely extended sense. Nevertheless, the research on the modern costumes related to Shamanism is yet to be progressed. In this context, it is believed that the examination of Shamanism interrelated with a contemporary clothing expression is needed. This work would take a look specifically at how the Shamanism is given in the modern clothing fashion and review the inherent aesthetic characteristics. A fact was driven through this study that the shamanism shown in fashion is not only expressed in the modern style of shaman clothing but also unconsciously absorbed in the fashion on the whole. A finding was also revealed that the geometrical and abstract expression, the implication of animistic components, and the application of inherent shaman's costume on to design in regard to clothing are related to a view point of studying about shamanism. The meaning in each expressive method is focused on the superhumanistic desire of shamanism.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.158-170
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• 2016

This study analyzes historical drama costumes as a domain of popular culture through an examination of the changing process, factors, and design characteristics of historical drama costumes according to trend changes in historical dramas after the 2000s. Public interest in Korean traditional clothing has grown due to the historical drama fever. Research results are as follows. First, historical dramas are divided into: authentic historical dramas, popular dramas, and fusion dramas. Historical drama costumes show characters' status and roles to help viewers become absorbed in dramas and increase understanding the historical periods and knowledge. Second, the characteristics of TV historical drama costumes (according to changes of the historical dramas according to 2000) brought diversification as they are diversified by period, genre, and character and costumes which are suitable for them additionally resurfaced. Third, as for the design characteristics by type in TV historical costume after 2000s, authentic historical dramas' design was done by comparatively in-depth historical research based on historical materials to help public understand the past. Popular historical drama costumes are based on history, but the forms of costumes were emphasized (or exaggerated); in addition, colors, subjects, and patterns were modified to emphasize image beauty, dramas' atmosphere, and characters by reflecting intention. The fusion of historical dramas' costumes attracted the attention of the public about Korean designs that harmonized tradition with modernity to actively reflect current trends in past periods and show new types of creative design.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2005

Throughout the history of fashion and fashion collections, fashion design has been influenced by fine arts. Philosophy and concept of fine arts has been inspiration on the development of fashion design which brings on the close interrelation between fine arts and modern fashion. In order to analyze the affect of fine arts such as Pop art on fashion this study inquires into new perspective that considers different social contexts on the premise that acknowledges the essential difference between the genre of fine arts and design. This study researches the influence of Pop art which has been inspiration on fashion designers since the birth in the 1960s and often appears in recent fashion trends. In view of the results achieved in this study, Pop art-inspired fashion does not concern the aesthetic contemplation of everyday life in western society anonymously as in Pop art but deals with pop art as new ideas in a way that adopts images randomly from designer's convenience which is equivalent to the conception of pastiche. In addition, it was inferred that Peter Pan syndrome exert influence as a mental process and Kidult trend operate on Pop art-inspired fashion as a social phenomenon. On the basis of the theoretical background, the formative features in Pop art-inspired fashion from Spring/Summer 2000 to Spring/Summer 2004 collection has been analyzed. The results fall on the following four categories; those are the use of Pop color which resembles the Hard-edge technique in Pop art, direct appropriation of Pop art such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichitenstein's works on clothes and accessories, adaptation of Pop art's subject using brand names of mass products or icons in mass culture as design motives, and application of representation method in Pop art such as Andy Warhol's silk screen techniques or Tom Wesselman's composition of pictures.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to men's fashion by analyzing changes related to excessive and decorative expressions of latest men's wear design in the viewpoint of Maximalism, and using the results to develop a new fashion style. Results of the study are as follows: The characteristics of Maximalism in men's wear collection in the last 5 years can be classified as 'Fusion Maximalism, 'Decorative Maximalism', 'Exaggerative Maximalism', 'Humorous Maximalism', and 'Duplicative Maximalism'. The characteristics of each type of Maximalism can be summarized as follows: First, Fusion Maximalism creates new men's fashion style by fusing designs from different cultures in clothing items as well as dismantling gender boundaries in clothing design, and by having designs which transcends time and space. Second, Decorative Maximalism expresses ambiguous decadence by implementing feminine decoration that applies handicraft technique, as well as exaggeratedly using details and trimmings of contrasting images, and applying women's clothing items. Third, Exaggerative Maximalism represents extreme avant-garde that changes the idea of fashion design by changing the styling or the exaggerated silhouette. Fourth, Humorous Maximalism expresses not only the creation of new men's fashion look, but also expresses humanism with exaggerative enjoyment and pleasant ideas. Fifth, Duplicative Maximalism expresses creative design by implementing vivid images of different period and culture, and reproducing successful images of the past into modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.42-54
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• 2011

The study was focused on surveying the cultural identity and the origin of T-shirts, and examining their functions. Six cities were selected to categorize the design motifs of cultural identity appearing in the design of contemporary T-shirts. These cities include a city in France, United Kingdom, Italy, United States and Japan where collections are currently presented at, and also a city in China that has shown a high economic growth as one of the most popular sightseeing cities. Cultural identity was presented in the T-shirts that were examined in this study through diversified design motifs. Motifs used in T-shirt designs to reflect cultural identity included national flags, notable places, letters, names of geographic places, and individuals. A national flag is a motif that signifies national identity and it was used in the front of T-shirts as it is or was just partially used. Also, many world-renowned structures or architectural buildings were applied to T-shirt design. Noted places such as the White House, the Statue of Liberty in the U.S., Tienanmen Square in China and the Eiffel Tower in France were used. The unique characters of language, such as Hangeul in Korea were used as design elements to reflect the structural characteristics of letters. Names of geographic places were used as design elements through the disclosure of the name of a symbolic city or a tourist site in each country. In terms of figures, not only the historical figures or celebrities from each country were used, but the image of bodies and faces that represent each culture were used as well. In addition, this study was used to develop T-shirt designs that reveal the cultural identity of Korea.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.70-83
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• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been made a new attempt to extend restricted expressions through fusion with other genres in art. The recognition of fashion has recently been changed not only product but as a piece of work in specific value, concept and meaning created by fashion designer. It is observed that the contemporary fashion design has a notion to persue formative intentions and manners of Conceptual Art in Post-modern era. This study is to define this region of fashion design represented in cultural phenomena as 'Conceptual Fashion', also analyze the formative feature of this from a point of view in Conceptual art. The results which are analyzed according to outward techniques and forms, meanings and elements immanent in aesthetic contemplation of conceptual fashion lead to four distinctive things in such as anti-form, intervention and appropriation, metaphor and detour, process and series. The intrinsic values in conceptual fashion through aesthetic contemplation are indicated the four significant values in the following: the pluralistic interpretation, the parody and amusement, the pursuit of essence and truth and the participation and interaction. Conceptual fashion design is appeared complex not doing separate through classified formative features previously. And It has been evolved as a indeterminate concept which is able to variable elucidation by a non-player, as a instrument for communication on fashion culture which is aggrandized. The purpose of this study is to present of theoretical foundation about Conceptual fashion design and also to make proper understanding about interrelationship between contemporary fashion and art.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.89-98
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• 2007

Women are playing an increasing role in the society amid the increase in the age at first marriage, reduced family size, and the weakening solidarity among family members. Gold Miss is a newly coined word which reflects the change in the value of women in the wake of the individualism and pluralism amid the structural change. Gold Miss means a new X generation that is sensitive to the latest fashion and trend with high purchasing power and self-attainment goal. They do not spare any effort to invest in themselves, lead the new culture and set the cultural trend that goes beyond the simple consumption, and come into the spotlight both socially and economically. The outcome of the analysis on the Gold Miss fashion which was revealed in the mass media indicated that the fashion was the instrument to express their own images and personalities. Though they may be some difference depending on the occupation, personality, values, and others, they pursue sophisticated, intellectual, and emotional office-look that takes the trend and personality into account. In addition, they prefer business casual attire, and pursue the total fashion with perfection which uses the gorgeous bright and vivid color, daring color, accent color arrangement and accessories. The Gold Miss fashion implies the self-identity, high-end feature, and embody the symbolism of information, which the analysis on the feature and fashion of Golden Miss indicated.