• Title/Summary/Keyword: costume color

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Clothing Characteristics of Royal Women in Historical Dramas during the 'Kang-Qian' Heyday in 'Qing Dynasty' -Focus on - (사극에 반영된 청나라 강건성세(康乾盛世) 시기 황족 여성 복식 조형 특성에 관한 연구 -<견환전>(甄嬛传)을 중심으로-)

  • Li, Aizhen;Choi, Sooah
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.41 no.3
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    • pp.407-419
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    • 2017
  • Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

The study on Natural Dyeability of silk with Artemisia Extract (야생쑥 추출물을 이용한 견직물의 천연염색성에 관한 연구)

  • 박영득
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.33-46
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

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A Study on Bedclothes Design Preferences and Purchase Motives (침구류 디자인 선호도와 구매동기에 관한연구 -색과무늬를 중심으로-)

  • 이명희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.35
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    • pp.181-193
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    • 1997
  • The objectives of this study were to classify bedclothes purchase motives and to examine how bedclothes purchase mo-tives and design preferences very accord-ing to age and income. Samples were 217 housewives residing in metropolitan area. Questionnaire included 17 Likert type items of bedclothes pur-chase motive measure 12 items of color preference 7 items of pattern (floral geo-metric abstract stripe plaid polka dot, and paisley pattern). The results of the study were as fol-lows. 1. 5 factors of bedclothes purchase mo-tives were derived by factor analysis ; F .1 'design': F 2. "brand' ; F.3. 'deficiency'; F. 4. 'fabric' F.5. 'economical reason' 2. Subjects perceived design and utility area to be important motives for bed-clothes purchase. 3. Cholor preference of bedclothes was in the order of white pale blue pale green and pale orange. Pattern preference was in the order of stripe plaid solid color floral and polka dot pattern. The combi-nation of patterned fabric and solid color fabric was liked better than the combina-tion of analogic color and the combination of contrasting color. 4. The women in their 20's liked navy blue red stripe plaid pattern and solied color better than 30's and 40's . 40's liked abstract and paisley pattern better then 20's and 30's 5. Low income group lied navy blue and solid color fabric more than the mid-dle and high income group and liked ab-stract pattern less than the middle and high income group. 6. Women in their 20's perceived design to be important motive more than 30's and 40's. 30's perceived brand to be im-portant motive than 20's and 40's 7. High income group perceived design to be important motive more than the middle and low income group. Low in-come group perceived brand and fabric to be less important motives than the middle and high income group, The present findings provide that age and income had a significant effect on bedclothes purchase motives and design preferences of houesewives. The results that white color and the combination of patterned fabric and solid color fabric were liked best indicated that women prefered clean image and chacteristics de-sign of bdeclothes.

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Color Changes of Natural-Dyed Fabrics under Sunlight (일광노출에 의한 천연염직물의 색상변화에 관한 연구)

  • Park Myung-Ja;Lee Youn-Hee;Yoon Yang-Noh
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.45-53
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    • 2004
  • Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

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Topographic Variations of the Seasonal Skin Color -A Study for the Map of the Skin Color 1- (피부색의 계절에 따른 부위별 차이와 특성 -피부색 지도 설계를 위한 연구 I-)

  • Park Myung-Hee;Kim Kyung-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.7
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    • pp.79-90
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    • 2004
  • In this study we tried to find the skin color of Koreans according to the change of seasons, and to the degree of make-up used by men and women. in order to furnish foundation data that could be used in the cosmetics and clothes industries. The skin color was measured with Minolta's Chrome Meter CR-200 in seven parts of the body with Munsell's hue, value, chroma. The difference in skin color in men and women's groups, and the difference in skin color of each group in March and in September were treated with SPSS's Anova and t-test. 1. In both seasons. March and September, a big difference could be observed between the two groups (men and women's). The body was more yellowish than the face. The men's group had a reddish skin color than the women's groups. In all groups we could observe a big difference in color between seasons, and in March, the skin was more reddish whereas in September, it became more yellowish. 2. As for the value, both in March and in September, the hairline was darkest, and the lightest areas were the jaw and the inner arm which showed a similar value. The group of women who put on make-up had the highest value, whereas the men's group showed the lowest result in value. We suppose it to be due to the fact that Putting on make-up prevented the melanin pigmentation by blocking the UV rays. 3. We could observe the highest value in chrome in the chin area both in March and in September, and there was no significant change. There was a difference in men and women's groups, but not a significant one within the women's groups.

The color characteristics of Cartier's exotic design in the early 20th century (20세기 초 까르띠에의 이국적 디자인의 색상 특성)

  • Hong, Jiyoun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.509-518
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    • 2017
  • As the international competitive landscape deepens, the need to understand foreign cultures and establish effective strategies is increasing. At the beginning of the 20th century, Cartier actively developed exotic designs to secure international competitiveness; theses designs have also been used as design prototypes for Cartier in modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the color characteristics and types of exotic designs in the early 20th century, which was a turning point in Cartier's design. After studying the literature, a total of 248 exotic designs were presented in Cartier catalogs. This study also selected overseas monographs from the early 20th century, and their design types were classified and color analysis was performed based on the Natural Color System(NCS). Cartier's exotic designs cover wide range of styles, such as Chinese, Japanese, Persian, Indian and Egyptian styles. Multicolor, primary colors, and contrast are all strongly expressed. 97% of designs contained multiple colors, with at least two colors and maximum of six colors. The most frequently used colors are red, green, and blue, which means that only 9% of the designs do not contain the three colors, showing a high preference for theses three colors. In addition, color combinations of red and green, red and blue, or all three colors are used to show high contrast and utilize complementary colors, or near complementary colors, for coloration. This study is meaningful in that it analyzes the color characteristics of Cartier's exotic designs and translates them into practical data for establishing the color strategies of companies in the global market.

The Characteristics and Change of Colors on Fashion Collections in 1990s

  • Kim, Honey;Kim, Young-In
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.18-31
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine color characteristics and color changes of the fashion collections through 1990s, and to provide the efficient color information for color planning upon fashion themes. For this research, a total of 30,084 colors were collected from Paris, Milan, London, New York Collections in 1990s. Those colors were first measured by the Pantone Textile Color Specifier and COS Color System and spectrophotometer(color eye 580). These measured color values $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$of CIE were converted into H V/C of Munsell System, and 12 tones of PCCS with 5 achromatic colors. The characteristics of collected colors were analyzed in general and by place, season and year. The results of the study are as follows : First, the hues of purple blue, yellow red, red, yellow and the tones of grayish, pale, white, black, dark grayish, dull, light grayish appeared mostly. Yellow was shown quite frequently in spring/summer while purple, purple blue, red and yellow red in fall/winter. White, pale, light, light grayish and light gray were shown more frequently in spring/summer while Black, dark grayish, grayish, dark gray and dark in fall/winter. Second, the characteristics of colors by 4 representative places were similar to the general characteristics of colors in 1990's. Third, There were distributed widely Red, Yellow Red, Yellow in the early 1990s, Green Yellow, Green, Blue Green in the mid of 1990s, and Purple Blue, Purple in the late of 1990s. The distribution range of chromatic colors showed wide in both of the early of 1990s and the mid of 1990s for a while, and achromatic colors of grayish, gray and black appeared mostly in the late of 1900s.

A Study on the Color Images of the Films "Thirst" and "Mother" - With a Focus on Costumes and Background - (영화 <박쥐>, <마더>의 색채 이미지 연구 - 의상과 배경을 중심으로 -)

  • Yang, Jung-Hee;Park, Hye-Won
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.5
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    • pp.144-160
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    • 2011
  • This study investigated the colors of the costumes and backgrounds of characters in the films "Thirst" and "Mother" from an integrated perspective. As a study method, ten scenes per film, which contained the characters and backgrounds from the start to the end of the DVDs of "Thirst" and "Mother" were examined. For integrated color analysis of the costumes and backgrounds, the colors of the captured scenes were simplified to extract representative colors, and then color palettes were presented according to the ratio of area. The colors of costumes were analyzed by recognition through the eyes based on the I.R.I. Hue and Tone 120. Furthermore, the color images of the two films were analyzed using the I.R.I. adjective image scales and the I.R.I. color image scales. The colors of the film "Thirst" were generally low in brightness and high in chroma. They are characterized by dark, gloomy toned-down background in the first half, highly chromatic vivid background in the second half, and the contrast of purple blue colors and red colors. The colors of the film "Mother" are characterized by complementary colors between background and costume colors, and various tones of blue and green colors. From the aspect of color tones, they were relatively high in brightness compared to the film "Thirst" but low in chroma. On the I.R.I. adjective image scale, contrasting adjectives were extracted simultaneously from the film "Thirst" as the adjectives were evenly distributed at hard, dynamic and static, whereas the adjectives extracted from the film "Mother" were distributed at hard and statistic. On the I.R.I. color image scale, both films were located at hard, but the film "Thirst" was located at dynamic whereas the film "Mother" was located at static.

A Study on Design for Casual Look Applying Painting Images of Henri Matisse (앙리 마티스 회화 이미지를 응용한 캐쥬얼 룩 디자인 연구)

  • Sim, Mi-Jung;Yu, Kum-Wha
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.612-625
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    • 2010
  • People have more expectations for arts and design and accordingly, various artworks were combined with fashion to meet the consumer needs. As people live a decent life, the development of leisure activities and industry has a much effect on apparel. With this phenomenon, a free and active casual look is making progress centering around the practical apparel, pursuing diversified efficiency irrespective of a season and considering sensibility not formality. In this study, paintings of Henri Matisse were analyzed in every respect and were applied in apparel design with diverse color arrangement and a motif originating in the phenomenon of modern fashion design which leads to the integration of arts and design. Painting image and color of Henri Matisse were used. Sportive casual and cultural casual was used in design as well. Originality of its color in the paintings which were used an a motif is coming from Gauguin and Gogh. Henri had influenced to the next generation with pursuit of violent color. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, the color of Henri Matisse's paintings has a strong contrast effect. It combines notable violent color with a simple yet decorative motif. Therefore color from Matisse's paintings suit for apparel of marked individuality with its free color arrangement. Second, free and active image in Henri Matisse's paintings is easy to express efficiency and popularity. It accords with the feature of casual wear. Third, through adding a flowing curved line in Henri Matisse's paintings to materials and applying various colors putting into a curved line image to a rib section, a decorative effect which goes with the whole shape is obtained. This study presents possibility of emergence of unique design using free color arrangement and motif from the image of paintings and aims development of modern fashion design in accordance with modern fashion giving importance to the difference and sensibility by integration of modern garments and artworks.

A Study on the Stage Costume Design of the Opera

  • Lyu, Chun-Wha;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.6
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    • pp.68-77
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    • 2002
  • In this study, based on Choi, Jong Rim's script (2000), the main characters' stage costume designs were presented with 15 illustrated pieces in terms of compounding the images of Korea and West. I considerered the main characters' social status and personality by each act and scene, as well as the correlation of the stage costume's minor theme, color and material. In expressing the stage costume, this study has chosen the formational method of the comparative design dimensions between costumes in 1650s Joseon and baroque period and used the joinder of flat pattern and draping in various parts of the costumes.