• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

Asia Folk Costumes are certainly different from the Western Costumes. This distinction is based upon the effect of environment, technology, and social structure, and especially, which was generated by religion, ideology, and philosophy. The ideas of fundamental ground of this eastern features are religions such as Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The religion of the East has determined the form of traditional costumes, affecting the costume up to now. This study aims at the investigation of the effect of religion on the formation of East Asia Traditional Costumes around Korea, China, and Japan and its figurative beauty. Study was carried out by chiefly referring to literatures. Eastern Aesthetics was formed by accepting aesthetic concepts, acquired from the idea of Three Religions. Especially, the ideas of non-duality(不二), emptiness(空), five aggregates(五蘊), mind control(心法), derived by Buddhism, and nature theory(自然論) and creationism(創造論) of Taoism, and abstinence theory(節制論) and decorum(禮法) and the principles of Yin and Yang(陰陽) of confucianism have had great effect on the aesthetics of costume. The figurative features of costume, affected by three religions are described by the factors; First, non structural feature, second, the beauty of abstinence and chastity of ample silhouette, third, the feature of natural color and achromatic color, fourth, the figurative feature of costume by the principles of Yin and Yang, and fifth, bright ornaments. The aesthetic values of the East Asia Costume are 'A Beauty of Vacancy', 'A Beauty of Concealment', 'A Beauty of Nature', and 'A Beauty of Symbolism'. As philosophy, culture, and ethnics itself, the religions of Asia have had effect on the overall culture, which is inclusive of social structure, as well as art and aesthetics, and have decided the style of costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.263-277
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• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.20-30
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of European middle class, ethos to costume. This study is concerned with historic situation about enlightment and French revolution, and the change process of costume before and after the French Revolution. In order to investigate the relationship, this studies include the phenomenon of costume in the basis of thoughts of the age (enlightment), political event (French revolution) and social system (middle classes). The Influence of enlightment to costume of man and children were which emphasized practical aspect. Children costume was developed independently from costume of adult before French revolution. French revolution played a roll in silhouette, color, texture of costume for man. Especially pantalons which names Sans-culotte generalized as modern clothing for man. Women freed from corset because of the influence of neo-classicism for a while. However, costume of woman did not change much because women were excluded from of enlightment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.11-18
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and composition factor of Japanese costume design. The stimulus were 25 contemporary costume design which represented the traditional image of Japanese. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the Japanese costume image by 26 semantic differential bipolar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyzed by Factor analysis, Multidimensional Scaling Method and Regression Analysis. The major findings were as follows. As a result of design analysis, contemporary Japanese costume design which represented the traditional image had traditional form, color, texture, pattern, etc. Through factor analysis about Japanese costume image 7 factors were identified; Attractiveness, Attention, Cool and warm, Neatness, Activeness, Maturity, Classics. According to image positioning, Japanese costume design was classified by simple-decorative, soft-hard. As the result of regression analysis, The preference of Japanese costume image was related to attractive factor.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.160-170
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image of color combination in fashion design. For this study 14,121 color samples were collected from 116 fashion brands selected by the market segmentation based on the results of the previous studies. The brands have high market share and brand recognition in each segmental market. The color samples were measured by spectrophotometer and analyzed by the Munsell's H V/C and CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value. The representative colors of each market were selected concerning the tensity in CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ color space and the distance between the color samples. h4 a result, 2,213 representative colors were chosen. These color samples composed top and bottom color combination samples by the program 'Item Comparator' that calculated the color differences$({\Delta}E^*)$. Top includes the items such as blouse, shirt, and coats, bottom includes the items such as skirt and pants. The color combination samples were divided into two groups. In one group ${\Delta}E^*$ was less than 30, and In the other group ${\Delta}E^*$ was 30 or more. For investigating the image of color combination, 480 rotor combination samples were classified. The image adjectives for the survey from preceding studies and brand dictionaries were 'classic', 'modern', 'feminine', 'casual', and 'romantic', which have highly preferred in women's wear brands. The result of the study is as follows; For 'classic' 'image, YR, and greyish tone were generally preferred. In the color combination of 'casual' image, the samples with PB color and greyish tone were preferred. For 'feminine' image, RP was preferred as a top color, R, RP, P were preferred as a bottom color. For 'casual' image, PB was preferred as a top color, PB, B were preferred as a bottom color. For 'romantic' image, RP was preferred as a top color, R, P were preferred as a bottom color. The bigger the color differences between the color combination samples were, the more remarkable the image of color combination samples was.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.147-162
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• 2011

The performance-art costume is a tool for expression that can dynamically display the intention of a production. The purpose of this study is to examine the whole costume for performance arts targeting musical works, to which were added such elements as music, dance, and drama, among performance arts in several genres. This study aims to consider how the symbol contained in the costume was intended to be expressed by inferring a change in performance costume and character as the stage costume. Accordingly, the following research problems were established in this study. First, Which role does the costume play in performance art? Second, into which types can the performance-art costume be classified depending on the kind of performance art? Third, what is the expressive method for the performance-art costume? To examine the types of performance-art costume, the acting costume, the singing costume, the dancing costume and the rhythmic performance costume were considered. As a result, the performance costume can be seen to have been designed through the effect of a change in color by lighting, through the differentiation of character caused by excessive decoration, through the differentiation in material for free movement, and through symbolic expression.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.863-877
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of dot pattern size(0.8, 1.8, 2.5, 5, 8), color combination (BG/R, Y/B), value tone(lt/dk, p/g), area-ratio on image information. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 20 color pictures manipulated with the combination of dot pattern size, color combination, value tone and area-ratio using computer simulation. The subjects were 240 female undergraduates living in Gyeongsangnam-do. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 4 different components, visibility, chastity.feminity, cuteness and attractiveness. In the visibility, color combination, value tone, area-ratio, dot pattern size showed independent effect. In the chastity feminity, color combination, value tone, showed independent effect. In the cuteness, value tone, area-ratio, dot pattern size showed independent effect. Significant interaction effects of color and area-ratio combination on visibility and cuteness were found. Interaction efforts of color and value tone combination, value tone and area-ratio was significant on cuteness. For visibility image, BG/R combination of color and yellow background/blue dots were effective. For cuteness image, pale/grayish tone and background/dots area-ratio were effective.

• 복식
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.122-135
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to classify achromatic color images adopted by contemporary fashion design in order to analyze the links between achromatic color images and fashion images. To this end, the study on the images of achromatic colors of White, grey, and black was conducted by reviewing related documents. In order to analyze the image factors affecting contemporary fashion design, the documents related to fashion history were consulted and in the case of fashion design factors and images, fashion looks using achromatic color as a main theme were referred. The results of this study are as follows : 1. An achromatic color is cold, calm and plain as well as modern. At the same time, it is abstinent and solemn so the color has been mainly used as religious garment. 2. An achromatic color used in apparels has been influenced by the developments of culture, art, society, ideology, politics, economy, science and technology. Black dress was introduced by Art Deco colors, little black dress by feminism, white by the popularity of sports, black becomes more popular by nihilistic beat and punk generations, moon look and cyber punk look were introduced for the advancement of science. Other apparel looks using the color are modern look, feminine look, futuristic look, mannish look, sportive look, and avant-garde look.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.7-14
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• 2003

Fabrics dyed with artemisia extract have quite natural and elegant tones of color. This study purposed to find the best one for dyeing among artemisia collected in the four seasons in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia. As for the method of research, the researcher dyed wool fabric and silk fabric with artemisia, and measured dyeability according to the number of repeats of dyeing, coloration by post-mordant, color fastness to washing, color fastness to dry cleaning and color fastness to light. The results are as follows. 1. In dyeing with artemisia, dyeability was improved as the number of repeat of dying increased, and it was higher in wool fabric than in silk fabric. 2. Among artemisia collected in the four seasons, autumn artemisia had dyeability much inferior to that of artemisia from the other seasons, and winter artemisia had the best dyeability. 3. According to the result of treating fabric with post-mordant, the dyeability was improved significantly, and coloration was most remarkable when copper and iron mordant were used. 4. The color fastness to washing and color fastness to dry cleaning of fabric mordanted with artemisia were as high as grade 4-5 and grade 5 respectively. The color fastness to light was highest in winter artemisia as grade 4.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.119-132
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• 1998

Niveteen stimulus photographs varied in hue and color scheme of one clothing style of Korean dress worn by a female were used to explore the differences in perceptive effect of clothing cues(color, color scheme, structure) on impression formation and graduate students. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, factor score, ANOVA and Scheffe-test. Results indicate perceptive effects of clothing cues on impression formation are influenced by gender-differences and major-difference of perceivers. Significant gender differences were found in perception of clothing cues on impression effect. Interaction effects were found between clothing cues and gender. Significant major differences were found in perception of clothing cues on impression effect. Interaction effects were found between clothing cues and perceiver's major. Female perceivers and perceivers of major-ing in Liberal Arts reacted to clothing cues on impression formation with greater sensitivity than male perceivers and perceivers of majoring in Natural Sciences. Frequent interaction effects between gender and color of China (cool-warm color), between major difference and color scheme(related color harmony-contrasting color harmony) appeared on factors of impression effect. The influence of perceiver variables on their perception of clothing cues for impression effcet has important implications for gender difference and perceiver's maforing backgroung in a social situation.